s60 vs 9". financial comparisson
s60 vs 9". financial comparisson Ive got some money sittin here..... but only some. I was set on a 9", but a builder i know told me they are a pain due to the different pinion angle, and to go with an s60 instead. I am having trouble finding alot of information on the s60, but it seems like they arent as direct boltup as the 9". you need a new drive shaft for one.
as far as money goes, all REQUIRED supporting parts, out the door, which is the cheaper part? A sponsor here showed me a 9" with all the fixins for like 2400 which aint bad imo. am I going to spend more getting an s60 to mate up just to reduce a couple degrees on the pinion angle?
the car is going into the shop today for a clutch/hydraulics replacement, so fast info and links will be more than welcome. I need to make a fast decision. Im gunna go put my car on the trailer, so ill be back around 5 to check back.
Thanks in advance guys.
btw, the full job list while the car is gone is a fuel pump (255L) install on a 98, spec 3+ and all the trimmings, rear end install, and a full nitrous dyno tune.
as far as money goes, all REQUIRED supporting parts, out the door, which is the cheaper part? A sponsor here showed me a 9" with all the fixins for like 2400 which aint bad imo. am I going to spend more getting an s60 to mate up just to reduce a couple degrees on the pinion angle?
the car is going into the shop today for a clutch/hydraulics replacement, so fast info and links will be more than welcome. I need to make a fast decision. Im gunna go put my car on the trailer, so ill be back around 5 to check back.
Thanks in advance guys.
btw, the full job list while the car is gone is a fuel pump (255L) install on a 98, spec 3+ and all the trimmings, rear end install, and a full nitrous dyno tune.
Yes it can, but the driveshaft ends up one sticking into the transmission tailshaft one inch less than it did with the 10 bolt. Normally this is not a problem, but several people have experienced vibrations that were eliminated by going to a one inch longer driveshaft. Bob
I dont see why a DS would be a affect on price, your probally gona need a stronger DS anyway. I had a DS made local with the 1350 (maybe its the 1330?) the stronger non greese fitting DOM steel DS made for like $220, and you can sell you alum one for $100-150.
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Do you still have the stock torque arm? You might want to upgrade that also..
After searching around and comparing prices...a Fabricated 9" comes out to about the same price as a regular 9" because it comes with a new torque arm and crossmember.
If you already had an aftermarket torque arm, then the 9" would be cheaper..IMO.
After searching around and comparing prices...a Fabricated 9" comes out to about the same price as a regular 9" because it comes with a new torque arm and crossmember.
If you already had an aftermarket torque arm, then the 9" would be cheaper..IMO.
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I ended up with the S60 because they said they could get me a deal. well, that was without DS apparently, so the whole thing was about 2600. I was a little irritated by that but at least its bullitproof now
Spend the extra $2-$300 for the Midwest Chassis Fab.9", almost the same weight as a 10 bolt, TRUE bolt in, and you get a custom long or short version TQ arm, and as for pinion angles....people make it sound so complicated but with a little research, it really isn't. I love my fab 9", the money I spent on it and the time it took to build was all well worth it.
