I know reducing weight helps, but I don't think I can get it down much more. It's still a street car, not a race car. I'm trying to make enough power to overcome the current weight.

I'll keep the stall speed for now. I might just get Circle-D to do a re-fresh on it. It's the Pro-Series converter, so it should be the more aggressive model.

I know the 6L80 isn't considered to be ideal for drag racing. It is heavy, but the gear ratios are way better than the 4L80. I don't trust the 4L60 behind a stroker. The hydroglide doesn't have enough gears for street use, so I went with the 6L80.

Something else that hasn't been mentioned is the rear end. I plan to eventually replace the stock 10-bolt with a fab-9". I'll probably go up in gears at that time too. The stock .323 gear isn't necessary now that I have the 6L80. I'll have to play with the gear ratio calculators and look at the options for a 9" rear, but I was thinking about going with something around a .342 or .355 gear ratio. I think the Eaton Tru-Trac is the posi unit I was looking at a while back. I don't want a full spool, because street car.

 

Exactly and a 408 could easily be a bored out 346 ci LS1 in my car lol. They don’t know squat. Exhibitions you know it in Mexico and at your local track lol. The only thing that would hurt you would be if you got classic insurance like some of us have. You don’t have to have it on the car. 25-30 years ago most people just carried them on their regular insurance. Even in that case, how would they ever know you weren’t coming or going to get gas or get a code scanned etc. Now racing it at the track or going above the milage you set with them, then yes. Just go classic and don’t look back. Mine will go classic in 2 years. It is all over the DFW news up here about news investigations into fake inspections. If Texas hadn’t made it so hard to pass we would never have to be talking about this. Then they turn around and do away with the safety inspection lights and brakes test and say that is not important. Yeah sure…

 

Special "show car"/classic insurance was one of the ways that I used to get my car exempted from local testing before I could get AV plates. I'd have to send in a copy of my insurance policy showing that the car had restricted use insurance, and then they'd give me an exemption. This caused no issues at all, as the insurance restrictions were nearly identical to the AV plate restrictions. You can still drive the car for service, shows, limited pleasure cruising and unlimited mileage related to events or hobby activities (for example, the insurance would cover you for the full Power Tour - Long Haul if you wanted to do the whole thing). Some classic insurance companies do have mileage limitations, but not the one I use (Grundy).

Now with AV plates it doesn't matter what type of insurance I have, but it just makes sense to stick with agreed value show car insurance as it's a much better rate, much better coverage, and I only use the car in ways that are consistent with my policy agreements in the first place (I don't commute with any of my toys, etc., they are just for pleasure and events).