MAJOR engine bogging and stalling HELP
MAJOR engine bogging and stalling HELP When I start my car, it seems fine. But after a while it'll bog way down and almost die and right after that it'll shoot up to 3000 and hover around and slowly come back down and repeat.. There is also some major tap in the valvetrain. I pulled the covers and all rocker arms are fine.
When driving, every 1/2 second to 2 seconds it feels like the incredible hulk has a chain on my rear end jerking me backwards. It is EXTREMELY hard to accelerate. It feels like it is almost missing but im not sure but my a/f ratio gauge is rather rich sometimes but can also go way lean. Also, my plugs and wires only have 2k on them.
There is vapor in my exhaust but I highly doubt its a head gasket or cracked head that would cause this. My car is just a bolt on car with 90k. I take very good care of my car. NEVER over-reved and ALWAYS change oil every 3k and ALL maintnance when it is supposed to be done.
I've had quite a few codes thrown and just haven't gotten around to delete them due to me having to re-tune shortly anyway. Here they are:
All o2 sensors are out from when I did my header swap
some evap code
Temp sensor high input
!EGR codes
!AIR codes
Knock sensor low input (its been that way for a year now and been fine)
Im pretty sure thats it.
PLEASE help me cause I can't drive my car like this!!!! It will be GREATLY appreciated!!!
When driving, every 1/2 second to 2 seconds it feels like the incredible hulk has a chain on my rear end jerking me backwards. It is EXTREMELY hard to accelerate. It feels like it is almost missing but im not sure but my a/f ratio gauge is rather rich sometimes but can also go way lean. Also, my plugs and wires only have 2k on them.
There is vapor in my exhaust but I highly doubt its a head gasket or cracked head that would cause this. My car is just a bolt on car with 90k. I take very good care of my car. NEVER over-reved and ALWAYS change oil every 3k and ALL maintnance when it is supposed to be done.
I've had quite a few codes thrown and just haven't gotten around to delete them due to me having to re-tune shortly anyway. Here they are:
All o2 sensors are out from when I did my header swap
some evap code
Temp sensor high input
!EGR codes
!AIR codes
Knock sensor low input (its been that way for a year now and been fine)
Im pretty sure thats it.
PLEASE help me cause I can't drive my car like this!!!! It will be GREATLY appreciated!!!
Yeah the front ones went out after driving around with open headers for 2 days. (I knew this would happen) but they have been that way for almost a month now (I was fired from my job shortly after so I haven't been able to buy new ones) without ANY major problems at all. This whole issue started just 2 days ago...
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: NJ
that is exactly what my car is doing now and i also pulled my covers and checked the intake gaskets. i havent pulled my codes so i think its safe to say that it is probably our front o2 sensors...im going to work on it today and ill let you know if it fixed my problem
If your front O2s are not installed or are on their way out, the PCM is going to dump MASSIVE amounts of fuel to both banks. That would probably explain your idle problem and all of the bogging. Also, if you took out your EGR and AIR and didn't fill the holes with freeze plugs or covers, then you have some huge vacuum leaks which further throw your fuel tables.
Running open headers will kill your fuel tables and throw your air/fuel ratio as well, because when you release the throttle, some air makes its way back up your exhaust system and will throw readings.
Head to WS6store and get some EGR and AIR block off plates. Also buy a freeze plug for your intake manifold. If you need new front O2s, it is best to head to the stealership to go and get them. Also, get under the car and unbolt your IAT (it is a big round thing that doesn't need to be there anymore). Saves 2 pounds and gets rid of a bit of noise and a few extra hoses.
Running open headers will kill your fuel tables and throw your air/fuel ratio as well, because when you release the throttle, some air makes its way back up your exhaust system and will throw readings.
Head to WS6store and get some EGR and AIR block off plates. Also buy a freeze plug for your intake manifold. If you need new front O2s, it is best to head to the stealership to go and get them. Also, get under the car and unbolt your IAT (it is a big round thing that doesn't need to be there anymore). Saves 2 pounds and gets rid of a bit of noise and a few extra hoses.
I put the block-off plates on there when I did everything. I don't have any vacuum leaks anywhere.
And when I put the headers on, I put some dumps on the collectors to sort of help prevent heating element failure in the o2s, but since my car is lowered they broke off after about 5 mins of driving. (I was on my way to a friends to weld the cb back on) and my efforts failed.
And when I put the headers on, I put some dumps on the collectors to sort of help prevent heating element failure in the o2s, but since my car is lowered they broke off after about 5 mins of driving. (I was on my way to a friends to weld the cb back on) and my efforts failed.
