I've been having intermittent starting problems with my car for the last month or so. Yesterday at work, it finally quit on me. I've replaced the ignition, starter, and fuel pump relays. I also thought it might be the VATS even though the security light does not flash. I tested my keys and matched up a set of resistors. When I unplugged the connection, I tested it the resistance with the key. It reads the same, so the connection is not broken. I put the resistors in anyway with no luck. Does not appear the VATS is the problem.

The car has power. When I turn the key to start, I just get nothing. In the past, the starter would make an initial cranking sound for a split second sometimes, but most of the time there was no response at all until after a few tries.

Any suggestions on what to check for next? Mind you, the car is at the parking garage at work, so I can't lift it up or anything. Looks like I must have it towed.

 

I'm fairly certain that it's the starter. I'm going to have it towed back home, which sucks, but at least I have a good idea of what's wrong.

Here are the troubleshooting procedures if you turn the key and the starter solenoid does not click:

Step 1.

(1a) Open the hood, and remove the starter relay. You will notice a grid that is labeled with letters and numbers. Some of the numbers cannot be read without removing the other relays, but the terminals of the starter relay are what you're focusing on.

If you are standing on the driver's side of the car, positioned beside the fender, and looking across the engine bay, the terminals are labeled like this:

C6 C4

B6 B4

(1b) Connect your voltmeter between terminals C6 and B4. Have someone turn the ignition to START. Do you show 12V in the START position? If yes, move on to Step 2.

If no, it is very likely your VATS. Your security light is probably flashing when you try to start the car. First, try a spare key. If no luck, measure the resistance of your key pellet. There are 15 different ranges of resistance that must match the resistance programmed in the BCM for the car to start.

Then look under the dash and remove the lower panel to check the connection from the cylinder lock to the BCM. Undo the male/female connector. Measure the resistance of the white wires from the cylinder lock with the key in the ignition. If the resistance matches that of your key pellet, then the cylinder lock connection is OK. If no reading, then the wire is broken up by the cylinder lock. If the connection broken, then you need a new cylinder lock and reprogrammed key to retain your VATS. To bypass the VATS, simply match up a set of resistors to the key pellet reading and connect to the white/purple wires that were connected to your cylinder lock via the two white wires.

If this does not fix the problem, then it might be the BCM itself.

Step 2.

Connect the voltmeter between C4 and a ground. Does it show 12V? If yes, go to Step 3. If no, go to Step 4.

Step 3.

(3a) Connect voltmeter between B4 and ground. Place trans in Park or Neutral (press clutch if manual). (3b) Turn ignition to START. Does it show 12V? If yes go to Step 5. If no, go to Step 6.

Step 4.

If you're at Step 4, then there is a problem between the starter relay and your ignition switch. Could be a fuse, loose/damaged wire, or bad switch. If connections are OK, replace ignition switch located in the steering column.

Step 5.

(5a) Reinstall the starter relay. (5b) Jack up the front of the car and place on jack stands. (5c) Remove the purple wire from the starter solenoid. (5d) Connect voltmeter to purple wire and a ground. (5e) With car in Park or with clutch depressed, turn key to START. Does it show 12V? If yes, go to Step 8. If no, go to Step 7.

Step 6.

If you are at Step 6, then there is a problem between the starter relay and your neutral safety switch (auto) or clutch switch (manual). Check all of the wires from the relay back to the respective switch. In an auto, the Park/Neutral switch is under the center console. In a manual, it's by the clutch pedal I believe. I have an auto, so I cannot verify.

If the wires and connections are OK, then replace the neutral safety switch/clutch switch.

Step 7.

If you are at Step 7, then there is a problem between the starter relay and solenoid. Check for bad connection. If OK, then replace starter relay with a new one. Do not just swap relays.

Step 8.

If you are at Step 8, then you are getting power to the solenoid, but the starter is not working. Check the battery connections to the solenoid or other damaged wires. If OK, replace starter.

 

good bit of info to know im in the process of finding my problem.

 

I had a very similar problem about half a year ago. Turned out to be broken wires from the ignition lock. Over time, the wires will chaff against the lock whenever you turn the key (stupid design) and break. These wires are pretty thin as well.

I would look into tearing into the steering wheel column area and look at the wires where the ignition lock is. It's easy to do. Only needed simple tools, lamp, steering wheel puller and compression tool, Chilton's.