Ok, the strip at the back of the t-tops. The tops kind of slide under it at the back (sail panel end) of the T. Can you order that separately, and if so anybody know the part number?

 

The small black flap that spans the center molding between the two t-tops? (ie: not physically attached to the t-tops, themselves)

 

correct

 

I thin it only comes on the center trim piece between the T-tops(the piece that fades) part number 10282361 list $148.95. I couldn't find the small flap seperately

 

What's your problem with it? Is it just twisted up or is it mangled permanently? The first can be dealt with.

 

It's ripped to shreds, has been sitting in place looking like a U at the back of my t-tops for as long as I have had it. Saw another camaro that didn't have a U sticking up at the back and got to looking at it. It's pretty tore up and comes off, slides on, whatever. Waiting for it to blow away and water to start leaking in.

 

There was a good thread a while back on how to straighten the strip out, but mine is now torn up and needs to be replaced also.

I expect that the molding needs to come off in order to inspect the attachment and craft a new weatherstrip, but I've never tried it. (I'm not sure if the molding is siliconed down to the roof or not. If not, it should be an easy thing to deal with.)

 

You can't get it seperatly. Mines been off the car since 02. Never has leaked. I do plan to get a new moulding one day. Gmpd has it for around $85 new. I see them on e-bay for around $15-$30 time to time.

 

If youre talking about the little weatherstrip that the t-tops slide under (one in front and one in the rear), you can get it sepearately. I went to my local dealer and brought the parts guy out to my car and he had to special order it. I believe it was around $2-5 bucks.

 

Do you still have your receipt with a part number for us?

 

Sorry I dont, I got it a while back and it ended up getting messed up like the old one so I just took it off and threw it away, I may get another one and just be more careful putting the t-tops on this time....

 

Man would be great if I can get this for cheap. Will try to hit a dealer this week and see if they can look up the part.

 

If you can get a part number, please post.

 

I've had to glue that thing a couple times.

 

I have lokoed through my parts catalog several times and I can't find it...wonder if its been discontinued and is only available on the center piece???? I would be interested in the part number too since I am a parts counterman and can't find it in the catalog.

 

I shuffled through some parts books and came up with the numbers. They are:
10248550 CAP-RF/WD (This is the front one)
10248551 CAP-RF/WD (This is the rear one)
The dealer I visited actually had them in stock! The parts themselves run less than $1 each online and the dealer I visited charged me $1.86 for one and $1.95 for the other.

They were listed as parts in group 12.812 with the molding, but are not depicted in any exploded diagrams.

I was able to get the new caps on with great results, but don't think I have everything down 100%. Maybe the next person to do this can put together a sticky-quality write up? (There are no directions on how to do this in the Factory Service Manual.)


I've attached three pictures. One of the caps laying flat, one from the side view, and one of the center molding off.

On the parts: they are very similar, except for the molded curvature. (See the side view picture.) I didn't note which one was which from the dealer, but I'm 95.9% sure that the flatter profile one is for the rear, and the one with more curve is the one for the front.

When I took off the center trim, I got a really nasty, sticky surprise. (See other picture.) The molding uses a single sided 1" wide urethane foam tape to seal the screw holes and keep things from squeaking/rubbing. The tape's adhesive had liquefied over time and the tape was starting to separate from the Mylar backing. Things would have been better if I was wearing rubber gloves at the time. The adhesive cleans up reasonably well with rubbing alcohol.

If I had a little more time, I would have ordered replacement foam tape and cleaned up everything really well. Instead, I carefully re-lined up the old tape and it seemed to hold together well enough. I think this is the replacement tape: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...glPL95HS7G7Hbl The catch is that I could only find it in 36 yard rolls for $50-60. Hopefully someone else sells a comparable tape in a smaller quantity.

Once I had the molding off, I found that the old caps were spot glued on. I was able to scrape everything clean and then used super glue to bond the full width of the cap on with a very thin layer of adhesive. The bond held rock-solid and worked really well. The only thing I wished I had done would have been to put tape across the top of the molding and across the top of the cap to deal with some oozing out of the top of the assembly where the two meet.

 

I was able to pull up "Molding/Emblem Replacement" documents via GM and they recommend for loose molding and or emblems LOCTITE 414 GM patr number 12345093 and for replacement of emblems/moldings GM wants you to use 3M Super Automotive Attachment Tape part # 06380 (white backing) #06382 (black backing)
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...glGF3RPP22RJbl

Thats awesome...you know I looked in 12.812 and looked right over those caps since they are using the same call-out number as the roof bar #3 in the GM parts catalog.

 

Cool. LOCTITE 414 and SuperGlue are the same chemical, Ethyl Cyanoacrylate. I don't think the tape on the T-Bar is Attachment Tape as only one side has adhesive. Its more like a foam gasketing material. (Since the T-Bar holds on the tops, its mechanically attached with the screws, instead of being stuck on like the other moldings.)

 

Does any one know where I can find10248550 CAP-RF/WD (This is the front one)
10248551 CAP-RF/WD (This is the rear one)

 

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