heater only getting warm, bad thermostat?
12-04-2009, 10:26 AM
#1
heater only getting warm, bad thermostat? Would a stuck open thermostat cause this? The engine does take a while to reach operating temp. and the inlet hose to the heater core is really hot as the outlet hose isn't nearly as hot
I'm guessing the pressure flow to the heater isn't great enough to allow sufficient flow through the entire heater core? does the thermostat effect the pressure flow to the heater core? as in, if it is stuck open the flow to the heater core will not have such a great pressure than if the thermostat was closed (increasing pressure)
????
any help would be great, it was 18 degrees today and no heater=FML
I'm guessing the pressure flow to the heater isn't great enough to allow sufficient flow through the entire heater core? does the thermostat effect the pressure flow to the heater core? as in, if it is stuck open the flow to the heater core will not have such a great pressure than if the thermostat was closed (increasing pressure)
????
any help would be great, it was 18 degrees today and no heater=FML
12-04-2009, 10:35 AM
#2
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It could be, but as the hose to the heater is hot and the hose out of the heater isn't I'd be more inclined to think there's some kind of restriction there.
The other issue could be if you have a 160 stat. If so, get rid of it in favor of a stocker and you'll have plenty of heat.
The other issue could be if you have a 160 stat. If so, get rid of it in favor of a stocker and you'll have plenty of heat.
12-04-2009, 10:45 AM
#3
It could be, but as the hose to the heater is hot and the hose out of the heater isn't I'd be more inclined to think there's some kind of restriction there.
The other issue could be if you have a 160 stat. If so, get rid of it in favor of a stocker and you'll have plenty of heat.
The other issue could be if you have a 160 stat. If so, get rid of it in favor of a stocker and you'll have plenty of heat.
I flushed out the heater core this past summer and was it was flowing pretty good when i put water through it
12-04-2009, 11:48 AM
#4
i went through this sort of with my altima last winter.
problem was air in the system that collected in the heater core and prevented continuous coolant flow through the heater core, when i finally got around to looking into it this summer when i figured i'd changed the coolant, the overflow bottle was nearly empty but the radiator was full to the cap. my symptoms were the same- hot inlet heater hose, but i was also able to hear for at least the last year a waterfall sound behind the dash, it was sporadic coolant flow through the heater core depending on where i was driving. doubt you would ever hear that in an f-body with normal road noise and exhaust notes.
if the engine coolant temp on the dash reaches normal operating temp, then regardless of thermostat you should have heat. Even with the 160 stat, you can just park the car and idle it for a few minutes, it will go over 200F since no air is moving thru the radiator until the fans kick on at 226F. you should have heat then and the floor heat should nearly melt your feet. if it's luke warm heat then it's most likely air in the system since your pretty sure the heater core is 100%, other than that make sure the radiator cap is functional and the overflow tank and rubber line going to it are all clean and the tank is filled to the correct level. if you find the overflow tank was empty, then fill it to the cold fill mark and make sure the radiator is topped off completely when engine is cold, then every day before starting the car open radiator cap and top off if needed, and monitor & top off the overflow tank. Any air in the system will purge itself automatically after a few warm up/cool down cycles.
problem was air in the system that collected in the heater core and prevented continuous coolant flow through the heater core, when i finally got around to looking into it this summer when i figured i'd changed the coolant, the overflow bottle was nearly empty but the radiator was full to the cap. my symptoms were the same- hot inlet heater hose, but i was also able to hear for at least the last year a waterfall sound behind the dash, it was sporadic coolant flow through the heater core depending on where i was driving. doubt you would ever hear that in an f-body with normal road noise and exhaust notes.
if the engine coolant temp on the dash reaches normal operating temp, then regardless of thermostat you should have heat. Even with the 160 stat, you can just park the car and idle it for a few minutes, it will go over 200F since no air is moving thru the radiator until the fans kick on at 226F. you should have heat then and the floor heat should nearly melt your feet. if it's luke warm heat then it's most likely air in the system since your pretty sure the heater core is 100%, other than that make sure the radiator cap is functional and the overflow tank and rubber line going to it are all clean and the tank is filled to the correct level. if you find the overflow tank was empty, then fill it to the cold fill mark and make sure the radiator is topped off completely when engine is cold, then every day before starting the car open radiator cap and top off if needed, and monitor & top off the overflow tank. Any air in the system will purge itself automatically after a few warm up/cool down cycles.
Last edited by 1 FMF; 12-04-2009 at 11:54 AM.
12-05-2009, 06:37 PM
#5
thanks for the info 1FMF
I went ahead and just did EVERYTHING I have already done again- along with swap out the thermostat because it only cost $20 and I got the 180 degree themostat
So I drained the coolant (which I might add was very very very very clean), swapped out the old thermostat with the new one. The thermostat that was in there looked fine, so IDK if that was the problem. I then flushed out the heater core and blew some air through it- nothing came out except for coolant. I then put everything back together and added coolant and topped it off when it reached operating temp.
I noticed that it got to operating temp. ALOT quicker than it did before and the heater was also hotter, so hopefully this fixed it. It might have been the thermostat or there was a big air bubble that wouldn't get out of the system unless I drained the coolant and re-added
Just another question though, how long does it take for your cars to fully reach operating temperature? 5-10 minutes? Asking because before I swapped out the thermostat, my engine wouldn't even reach fully operating temp. even after 15minutes of driving (driving to school) it usually gets up to 170degrees. (I start it up and let it idle for about 3minutes, then plus that 15minute drive it doesn't reach operating temp)
I went ahead and just did EVERYTHING I have already done again- along with swap out the thermostat because it only cost $20 and I got the 180 degree themostat
So I drained the coolant (which I might add was very very very very clean), swapped out the old thermostat with the new one. The thermostat that was in there looked fine, so IDK if that was the problem. I then flushed out the heater core and blew some air through it- nothing came out except for coolant. I then put everything back together and added coolant and topped it off when it reached operating temp.
I noticed that it got to operating temp. ALOT quicker than it did before and the heater was also hotter, so hopefully this fixed it. It might have been the thermostat or there was a big air bubble that wouldn't get out of the system unless I drained the coolant and re-added
Just another question though, how long does it take for your cars to fully reach operating temperature? 5-10 minutes? Asking because before I swapped out the thermostat, my engine wouldn't even reach fully operating temp. even after 15minutes of driving (driving to school) it usually gets up to 170degrees. (I start it up and let it idle for about 3minutes, then plus that 15minute drive it doesn't reach operating temp)
12-05-2009, 10:51 PM
#6
mine takes anywhere from 10-20 minutes i guess, it's not as fast as my altima that's for sure. i'm sure it depends on how cold out it is, and if you have the defog on that runs the AC compressor which in turn usually runs the radiator fans so if you're idling that might make it take a little longer to warm up.
what you should do now that you have the old stat out is observe it in a pot of water on the stove as you heat it, it should open right up as the water starts boiling then close when you remove it.
what you should do now that you have the old stat out is observe it in a pot of water on the stove as you heat it, it should open right up as the water starts boiling then close when you remove it.
