window motor...
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From: OHIO
Don't all window motors have thermal resistors in them; are you telling me that these particular motors do not have the resistor iin them? I did see a post about soldering in a piece of wire or something to by-pass the thermal resistor strip to keep the motor from over heating...but you have to open up the moto to do it.
I wonder if anyone has had to replace their motor even after the Autotrix fix kit.
I wonder if anyone has had to replace their motor even after the Autotrix fix kit.
There is a voltage drop. If you look at a schematic of the car, both sides of the cars have wires that run through the driver's side door. The passenger side has longer wires to the battery, which adds resistance to the circuit and reduces the voltage to that motor.
All electrical equipment in a car should be able to deal with 12-14.5 V of electricity as the output from the alternator/battery can be variable. There is over 12 V at both of our motors and they should be fine - but they suck. The Autotrix kit will supply a higher voltage to the passenger side, which will help any struggling electrical device and is goodness.
My hope is that this ElectricLife kit has a better motor that can stomach the voltage drop. We'll see....
BTW - There are other related electrical gremlins in these cars. For example, the radio light bulbs. They don't stand up well to the voltage spikes at start-up and blow out. I'm told by some Delco radio pros that the problem goes away if you install 14V bulbs. I'm also testing that out - so far, so good.
I just put mine drivers motor in this weekend, only to find it had definitely been replaced already. These things are pathetic, but hopefully this works out because Ill go your route when mine inevitably go out again.
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From: OHIO
Actually the regulator isn't what causes the motor to go bad but sometimes regulators can cause excessive drag on the motor but thats not usually the case in these f-bodies. I have found that replacing the regulator is actually more difficult then doing a motor swap.
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From: Elgin, Il
No that is the case with F bodies. I've seen it numerous times. As for ease, the regulator/motor assembly is four rivets and the motor connector. Then it slides out of the tracks. It doesn't get much easier. When you do just the motor you have to drill out part of the fiberglass to access the motor to regulator rivets. God forbid the spring unwinds, then you have to pull the regulator anyways. I can do a regulator in less than an hour effortlessly.
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From: OHIO
May be you explain to us what exactly it is on the window regulator that would cause the motor to burn up then. The regulator is completely mechanical and as long as there is no damage to the joints, nothing is bent and the tracks are well lubricated, there shouldn't be a problem. I had a GM service tech, here in my shop replace the passenger side on my wifes 2000 ws6 and we did the regulator w/ motor and guess what, 7 months later....needed another motor 
. So, the service manager replaced it under warranty as a part replacement and they did ANOTHER regulator w/ motor. That one lasted 10 months. So much for the regulator theory. I personally feel that there are very few people getting away with just one motor replacement; therefore, its easier to do the motor, with drilling the panel. At least for most people.
. So, the service manager replaced it under warranty as a part replacement and they did ANOTHER regulator w/ motor. That one lasted 10 months. So much for the regulator theory. I personally feel that there are very few people getting away with just one motor replacement; therefore, its easier to do the motor, with drilling the panel. At least for most people. LS1 Tech Stories
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No that is the case with F bodies. I've seen it numerous times. As for ease, the regulator/motor assembly is four rivets and the motor connector. Then it slides out of the tracks. It doesn't get much easier. When you do just the motor you have to drill out part of the fiberglass to access the motor to regulator rivets. God forbid the spring unwinds, then you have to pull the regulator anyways. I can do a regulator in less than an hour effortlessly.
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From: OHIO
Exactly...I think its more then common to have to replace these motors more then once during ownership, unless you don't have the car very long of course. If you do have to replace the motor more then once, I think you're better off drilling and just doing the motor. BUT...if the regulator is damaged in ANY way, then you have to replace it too. When I replaced my driver-side motor in my 99 SS, I made sure to lubricate the reulator pivot points and the tracks really well. I also trimmed the rubber on the edge of the door so that it wouldn't cause excessive drag on the glass (I am talking about the triangular pice of removable rubber need the doors latch assembly.
Exactly...I think its more then common to have to replace these motors more then once during ownership, unless you don't have the car very long of course. If you do have to replace the motor more then once, I think you're better off drilling and just doing the motor. BUT...if the regulator is damaged in ANY way, then you have to replace it too. When I replaced my driver-side motor in my 99 SS, I made sure to lubricate the reulator pivot points and the tracks really well. I also trimmed the rubber on the edge of the door so that it wouldn't cause excessive drag on the glass (I am talking about the triangular pice of removable rubber need the doors latch assembly.
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From: OHIO
You know my 98 Z28 has the stock motors but the passenger side is a bit slow sometimes; it has about 70k on it. But my 99 SS is a piece of ****...man that car has had multiple motors and my WS6 was a 2000 and that car had several motors w/ regulators under warranty. When I got rid of that car it needed another passenger motor.
I replaced my driver side window motor at 135,000 miles the car was 6 1/2 years old at the time...did not replace the regulator..got the motor at advance auto parts for $39 and it came with a lifetime warranty...it is much faster than the OEM motor..the passenger side is still working fine and the car is now 10 1/2 years old with 216,000+ miles on it. It took me 45 minutes to replace the driver side window motor..I guess that I could replace one now in about 30 minutes since I know how to do it...Just a FYI for you the 4th gen car is the last of the simple muscle cars..they have a minium of electronics in them...meaning that they are not real complicated to work on...everything built after these 4th gen cars are ate up with electronics and are much more complicated to work on....My car has been run hard every day of it life but it has been maintained very well .. it has been one of the most reliable cars that I have owned over the last 47 years...it is a daily driver heads/cam and all the bolt ons making 452/418 and still gets 27 mpg on the highway and 19 around town....
It increased my window motor speed by 30%
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Dunedin, Florida
just a thought I am changing out my drivers side. I had a friend do it a couple of years ago. I got mad thinking I paid him but he didn't do the work(I say a couple of years ago but the car was parked while I built a new motor). I just pulled it out and it seems the only point water could enter the unit (where the plug is) is facing up when I pulled mine out it was full of water. Design problem more then the motor at least in my instance. I will try to cover it so it doesn't happen again.
