What is the name of this A/C part?
#1
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My aftermarket exhaust appears to have rubbed a hole in my AC system and now I need to replace this part. I don't know what it's function or name is though. Can anyone help?
Also, since there's a pinhole leak in the system, will I need to have a factory do any service to my system, or can I just replace the pipe and fill it with R134A? Thanks guys!
Also, since there's a pinhole leak in the system, will I need to have a factory do any service to my system, or can I just replace the pipe and fill it with R134A? Thanks guys!
![What is the name of this A/C part?-wnape.jpg](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/general-maintenance-repairs/729769d1683242050t-what-name-c-part-wnape.jpg)
#2
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That is your Evaporator Tube (Part No. 19169412) which runs from the condenser to your evap (also contains orifice tube).
If you have a leak in this line you will need to evacuate the system, install the new parts (evap tube, accumulator/drier, and orifice tube) and get it recharged. You can do this yourself if you have the right tools but I would recommend having a professional do the job.
If you have a leak in this line you will need to evacuate the system, install the new parts (evap tube, accumulator/drier, and orifice tube) and get it recharged. You can do this yourself if you have the right tools but I would recommend having a professional do the job.
#3
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That is your Evaporator Tube (Part No. 19169412) which runs from the condenser to your evap (also contains orifice tube).
If you have a leak in this line you will need to evacuate the system, replace the line and get it recharged. You can do this yourself if you have the right tools but I would recommend having a professional do the job.
If you have a leak in this line you will need to evacuate the system, replace the line and get it recharged. You can do this yourself if you have the right tools but I would recommend having a professional do the job.
#4
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He would need to make an extra trip to the shop or wait for the mechanic to finish evacuating the system to install the new tube. IMO it's not worth the hassle and more than likely the shop won't charge labor for it... Now if he needed a new compressor/condenser it would be a different story.
#5
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That is your Evaporator Tube (Part No. 19169412) which runs from the condenser to your evap (also contains orifice tube).
If you have a leak in this line you will need to evacuate the system, install the new parts (evap tube, accumulator/drier, and orifice tube) and get it recharged. You can do this yourself if you have the right tools but I would recommend having a professional do the job.
If you have a leak in this line you will need to evacuate the system, install the new parts (evap tube, accumulator/drier, and orifice tube) and get it recharged. You can do this yourself if you have the right tools but I would recommend having a professional do the job.
#6
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Bottom line: They're cheap, easy to replace and required on most warranties.
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#8
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Alright, I've got a new orifice tube, receiver/accumulation, and evaporator tube. I'm wondering now, since my AC system h as a pressure of 0 due to this leak, if I need to evacuate the system BEFORE I install these new parts, of I can just install the new parts, then take it to a shop to have it evacuated and recharged.
#10
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Personally i would evacuate it still. you will want to pull vacuum on the system, after system leaks i normally will pull vacuum for 30 minutes. Then recharge the system with specified amount of refridgerant
#13
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Alright well I got all my parts in (almost). Maybe you guys can hep me out here.
My new ac drier came with some little rubber O rings sort of affixed to the two drier ports that I can either leave or peel off. It also shipped with two of the rubber-on-metal type o rings in a little pouch with the drier. My question is, which ones do I use when I screw them together?
Here's the metal type that came in the pouch:
![](http://images.bizrate.com/resize?sq=140&uid=850552908)
Here's the straight-up rubber time that was stuck on the drier.
My new ac drier came with some little rubber O rings sort of affixed to the two drier ports that I can either leave or peel off. It also shipped with two of the rubber-on-metal type o rings in a little pouch with the drier. My question is, which ones do I use when I screw them together?
Here's the metal type that came in the pouch:
Here's the straight-up rubber time that was stuck on the drier.
![](http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/113875270/O_Ring_for_Piston_Driver.jpg)
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Not to hijack; but mine quit working last week too. The same line has a leak, towards the front. Shop wants $350 to replace, evacuate and recharge (that's including $89 for the line). Is it just me or is that a lot more than it should be??
I've got a new compressor, accumulator and orifice tube from my last car that never got used... Guess i'll get at least the accum/dryer put on
I've got a new compressor, accumulator and orifice tube from my last car that never got used... Guess i'll get at least the accum/dryer put on
#17
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I bought the evap tube new from Rockauto for like 50 dollars. It even comes with an orifice tube already installed in the line. The accumulator I got from Amazon for 45 dollars. I took my car to the shop today and they evac and recharged for $120. I'd say buy the parts yourself, install them, and then have a shop do the work. It took me MAYBE an hour to get the accumulator and evaporator line put in. The shop had it taken care of in an hour.
#18
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If you still have refrigerant in the system the shop will evacuate what you have int ehre, then put that right back in and only charge you for the refrig. that you lost just FYI. If they want to evacuate 5lbs out and then charge you to fill the whole thing they are ripping you off.