Replacing Steering Column
Ok so i took my whole column completely out (so much easier to see what the heck is going on) And this piece pictured below just fell out. Is it supposed to be connected somehow? If i put it in, and move the high beam lever back and forth, it trys to push OUT, and won't make the clicking sound as it pushes the lever down the column. If i apply pressure on the outside of this piece as the lever pushes down, it will click. It just so happens the other column i acquired this piece fell out too. I don't know if they are both broke or they are both just supposed to fall out. Either way, my brights will not work without me pushing down on this piece to keep it from trying to push down instead of out. I loosed the 2 adjuster bolts by the switch on the bottom all the way up and it still doesn't click. What the ******* ****.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
See previous post. I'm at the part where i'm trying to get the clock spring out of my spare column. I don't see how it's going to come up with that huge connector at the bottom. It looks like i could slide it easier the other way but it doesn't look like i can disconnect the clockspring wire from the clockspring.
#14 - What year is your car?
#15, 17, 19 - You were probably using the wrong size bolt with the puller. Did you remove the lock nut? Our steering wheel takes a special size that doesn't come with all puller sets. See step #13 in my linked how-to.
#21 - See step #21.A in my linked how-to. The connectors you need to take apart are different than the picture but the method is the same. You need to put a tool or paper clip in to the connector body to depress the tang that holds the terminals in to the connector body. The terminals/wires will then come out of the connector so you can pull them through. BTW - Be sure to take a picture of things before you do this so you can find the right positions for the wires when you re-assemble the connector.
#15, 17, 19 - You were probably using the wrong size bolt with the puller. Did you remove the lock nut? Our steering wheel takes a special size that doesn't come with all puller sets. See step #13 in my linked how-to.
#21 - See step #21.A in my linked how-to. The connectors you need to take apart are different than the picture but the method is the same. You need to put a tool or paper clip in to the connector body to depress the tang that holds the terminals in to the connector body. The terminals/wires will then come out of the connector so you can pull them through. BTW - Be sure to take a picture of things before you do this so you can find the right positions for the wires when you re-assemble the connector.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
#14 - What year is your car?
#15, 17, 19 - You were probably using the wrong size bolt with the puller. Did you remove the lock nut? Our steering wheel takes a special size that doesn't come with all puller sets. See step #13 in my linked how-to.
#21 - See step #21.A in my linked how-to. The connectors you need to take apart are different than the picture but the method is the same. You need to put a tool or paper clip in to the connector body to depress the tang that holds the terminals in to the connector body. The terminals/wires will then come out of the connector so you can pull them through. BTW - Be sure to take a picture of things before you do this so you can find the right positions for the wires when you re-assemble the connector.
#15, 17, 19 - You were probably using the wrong size bolt with the puller. Did you remove the lock nut? Our steering wheel takes a special size that doesn't come with all puller sets. See step #13 in my linked how-to.
#21 - See step #21.A in my linked how-to. The connectors you need to take apart are different than the picture but the method is the same. You need to put a tool or paper clip in to the connector body to depress the tang that holds the terminals in to the connector body. The terminals/wires will then come out of the connector so you can pull them through. BTW - Be sure to take a picture of things before you do this so you can find the right positions for the wires when you re-assemble the connector.
I appreciate the time you've spent holding my hand through this. Never messed with this much wiring or any steering columns before for that matter.
My car is a 98. It doesn't say what size the bolts are but i managed to find some that worked and used a little pb blaster and the wheel finally came off. And i'll try the paperclip method here shortly. GM doesn't make anything easy do they?
I don't remember the exact connectors from the clock spring, but expect that there is a yellow one for the airbag and another one for the steering wheel controls. (If you have them.)
Sometimes, the connectors have a "lock" that slides in to the back of the connectors to further retain the terminals. If that's the case, then you'll have to remove that first.
If you can get the new terminals out, you can always cut the old connectors off inside the car if doing this is tough under the dashboard. (You'll never need them again.)
If you can post a pic of the front and back of the connector giving you fits, I should be able to give you some other pointers.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Not safely. GM has a special kit for places where SRS wires must be spliced, but its a lot easier to get the terminals out.
I don't remember the exact connectors from the clock spring, but expect that there is a yellow one for the airbag and another one for the steering wheel controls. (If you have them.)
Sometimes, the connectors have a "lock" that slides in to the back of the connectors to further retain the terminals. If that's the case, then you'll have to remove that first.
If you can get the new terminals out, you can always cut the old connectors off inside the car if doing this is tough under the dashboard. (You'll never need them again.)
If you can post a pic of the front and back of the connector giving you fits, I should be able to give you some other pointers.
I don't remember the exact connectors from the clock spring, but expect that there is a yellow one for the airbag and another one for the steering wheel controls. (If you have them.)
Sometimes, the connectors have a "lock" that slides in to the back of the connectors to further retain the terminals. If that's the case, then you'll have to remove that first.
If you can get the new terminals out, you can always cut the old connectors off inside the car if doing this is tough under the dashboard. (You'll never need them again.)
If you can post a pic of the front and back of the connector giving you fits, I should be able to give you some other pointers.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
