JohnS Z28

iTrader: (1)

1998 Z28-M6-90k Miles-93 octane
CODES:
P0113: intake air temp circuit
P0410: secondary air injection system fault
P0412: secondary air injection system fault
P0418: SECONDARY AIR INJECTION SYSTEM FAULT!

^^Assuming that ALL leads to a failed air pump, except the temp, How much will an air pump run me, and can i put it in myself, i have little car experience but im a handy-man.

misc noises/smells:
Exhaust smells kind of rich to me...my only mods are a catback+Lid

squeaky pulleys-its intermittently...almost 100% random, and typically at idle.

weird oil pressure, most of the time its at 40, but once in a while it drops by 10ish and when i give it some revs it builds back up...whats the proper pressure? 5.5 quarts? since i figure ill be changing the oil within the week.

also i think the previous owner had some sort of tune...because when i city drive, i can coast around 5th gear at 1700 RPMS at 35 MPH, is this normal? or bad for the engine/clutch?

ALSO i dont know if this is the clutch slipping/grinding or just normal, but when im downshifting to first i can hear a coarse whirring and resistance from the clutch, although if i give it a few rpms to match it then it slips right in...also, VERY rarely i will not be able to go into first at a stop, so i just put it in second, THEN into first, and it goes in easy.

thank you for your time and input!

Element

iTrader: (5)

AIR pump isn't hard to put in - it's a nuisance because of where it is, but it's a mechanically simple job. You might want to consider just ditching the whole AIR system if you don't need it for visual emissions and if your state doesn't do the emissions code check; it's a useless system, really. If you do need to keep it, you might check the classifieds or put a wanted ad up; a lot of guys just toss theirs in the trash when they delete the AIR system.

You might want to change the O2 sensors to help with the rich idle, although it might also be related to the bad IAT sensor.

Squeaky pulleys is an easy fix...remove the pulleys, take the dust covers off and pry the small rubber seals off the bearings, and clean and relube them with a good high-temp grease. The major reason pulleys make noise is because of lack of enough lube; normally the bearings are completely fine.

Proper oil pressure is typically determined by your rpm - 50psi at 5000rpm, 30psi at 3000rpm, etc. How low is your gauge actually dropping - 30psi or lower?

As long as you're not lugging the engine, cruising at a low rpm isn't going to hurt anything. Also sounds like your first gear synchro is going out; not uncommon with these T-56s.

JohnS Z28

iTrader: (1)

also i get the "skip shift" light, when in first gear, which apparently prevents you from going anywhere but 4th gear right? i look right at the skip shift light, drop it into second, and then it goes away....is this normal? or did the previous owner have it tuned out?

Also i changed my oil+filter just some castrol 5w30, and my oil pressure just sits at 40...if i give it rpms itll rise, typically not above 50 though, and i dont think it would ever drop below 30...probably to the 30-35 range.

and while i was changing my oil i noticed a bunch of sludge on the passengers side only.

JohnS Z28

iTrader: (1)

Anybody? not really interested in paying for labor =/

DropTopBird

iTrader: (17)

Looks like your rack and pinion assuming thats power steering fluid all over the place. Mine looks exactly the same way. I am just replacing the entire rack since I am doing a K Member swap instead of hassling with repairing a 120k rack. Its not hard to replace, just 6 bolts or so in total. The catch is that you have to lift the engine up or drop the k member a little to get the drivers side bolt out.