driverside door window
02-20-2012, 06:46 PM
#1
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Location: chattanooga Tn
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driverside door window From what i hear the driver side door window motor goes out a lot in my 01 ws6 and I have replaced it almost 4 times so i was woundering could it be a short in the wires and if so where is it usually shorting out because i have no clue when it comes to wiring and i dont wanna pay a lot of money to get it inspected and fixed
02-21-2012, 08:48 AM
#2
Nope. Its common to every car.
Problem #1 - The motor is a parts bin motor, originally designed for cars in the 1960's. The motor was probably on the drawing board when the car's engineers were in elementary school. So, we're getting a 1990's car with 1960's window performance.
Problem #2 - Rebuilt motors are notoriously bad. Re-builders re-use the thermal cut-off in the motor, which is a part that commonly goes bad. Every rebuilt motor I've purchased in the past has died within 1 year.
Other people will tell you that the motors are under powered by the car, which is (from an engineering perspective) not a valid point. So, some people will boost the voltage slightly by making a direct connection to the battery with a relay kit. This allows a failing motor to perform better for longer.
IMO - The best solution is to get around Problem #1 and #2 by purchasing a Dorman motor. Its an updated design, is supposed to be better sealed from contaminants, and is 100% new parts. (If you aren't buying a Dorman, odds are that the motor is rebuilt.)
I've also personally tried an aftermarket regulator/motor combination which was a disaster. The motor was small and burned up faster than the one originally from the factory. I'm now on the Dormans. So far, so good...
Problem #1 - The motor is a parts bin motor, originally designed for cars in the 1960's. The motor was probably on the drawing board when the car's engineers were in elementary school. So, we're getting a 1990's car with 1960's window performance.
Problem #2 - Rebuilt motors are notoriously bad. Re-builders re-use the thermal cut-off in the motor, which is a part that commonly goes bad. Every rebuilt motor I've purchased in the past has died within 1 year.
Other people will tell you that the motors are under powered by the car, which is (from an engineering perspective) not a valid point. So, some people will boost the voltage slightly by making a direct connection to the battery with a relay kit. This allows a failing motor to perform better for longer.
IMO - The best solution is to get around Problem #1 and #2 by purchasing a Dorman motor. Its an updated design, is supposed to be better sealed from contaminants, and is 100% new parts. (If you aren't buying a Dorman, odds are that the motor is rebuilt.)
I've also personally tried an aftermarket regulator/motor combination which was a disaster. The motor was small and burned up faster than the one originally from the factory. I'm now on the Dormans. So far, so good...
