weird overheating problem
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weird overheating problem hey guys ive recently been having overheating problems in my 2000 z28. ive pretty much done all teh tests and replaced just about everything i can think of to stop it from overheating, ive replaced my tstat replaced teh waterpump andhave done pressure tests and tested for a blown head gasket. was wondering if there are any other tests or anything else that could cause overheating, other than the cap have replaced that aswell. thank you
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well replaced teh et sensor and tried bleeding the system. started driving her and she quickly jumped to just under 210 and stayed there for awile until i gave her a little gas then she jumped just past the 210 mark. and after that she just kept getting hotter wheni woudl drive her until i turned her off at just about the thrid has on teh gauge. its also around 80 degrees in nc so not sure if since these cars liek running hot that its not a big problem or if im still in the hole
You need to start the engine when its dead cold, radiator cap off. Topped off with coolant. Stand there and wait until you see the coolant start to flow in the filler neck. When the level drops down, top it off immediately. Then the t-stat will close and flow will stop. Wait for it to open again, start to flow, then top it off again IF the level drops. That will mean all the air is out.
BUT....while you're standing there waiting for it to open the first time, keep checking the temp gauge to make sure you're not overheating. If it gets up to the 220 mark and it has not started flowing yet......grab the upper radiator hose and squeeze it hard like 20-30 times. Then do the same thing to the lower radiator hose. Coolant will shoot out of the filler neck while squeezing, just top it off after you squeeze them both.
This should move the air bubble past the t-stat.
If it doesn't work.....you need to remove the t-stat, then put the housing back on. Top it off. Start the engine. The coolant should be flowing in the filler neck immediately. If its not, you sheared the water pump shaft. Get a new water pump.
T-stat could just be partially opening too.......
This is if you know the fans are working on LOW AND HIGH settings, and always coming on and off together......and there is nothing jammed up in front of the radiator. And your lower front air dam is there.
Thats about all there is to our cooling systems.
.
BUT....while you're standing there waiting for it to open the first time, keep checking the temp gauge to make sure you're not overheating. If it gets up to the 220 mark and it has not started flowing yet......grab the upper radiator hose and squeeze it hard like 20-30 times. Then do the same thing to the lower radiator hose. Coolant will shoot out of the filler neck while squeezing, just top it off after you squeeze them both.
This should move the air bubble past the t-stat.
If it doesn't work.....you need to remove the t-stat, then put the housing back on. Top it off. Start the engine. The coolant should be flowing in the filler neck immediately. If its not, you sheared the water pump shaft. Get a new water pump.
T-stat could just be partially opening too.......
This is if you know the fans are working on LOW AND HIGH settings, and always coming on and off together......and there is nothing jammed up in front of the radiator. And your lower front air dam is there.
Thats about all there is to our cooling systems.
.
Last edited by LS6427; May 22, 2012 at 04:37 PM.
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just got back in and noticed that when i run teh car while cold it starts to fill up and will flow out of the radiator . does that mean theres a blockage somewere, also the tstat and pump are good wen she opens up she flows, but now when she is running the coolant will just rise
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just got back in and noticed that when i run teh car while cold it starts to fill up and will flow out of the radiator . does that mean theres a blockage somewere, also the tstat and pump are good wen she opens up she flows, but now when she is running the coolant will just rise
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Verdad Gallardo Push it down and twist it....they come out. There's no such thing as a one piece t-stat. They are all two piece for every year LSx engine.
The tabs on the t-stat fit under the two wings on the housing.
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The tabs on the t-stat fit under the two wings on the housing.
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Still sounds like air in the system do everything ls6427 said but this time turn the heater on full heat with the vents open if you have air in your system the air coming from the vents will not get hot. be sure to keep a eye on your gauge and make sure to keep coolant or water full heat you have hot air coming from the vents all the air is out of the system. using purple ice will also help to lower your temps
Yup, it sound like air in the system to me as well. You're probably just not bleeding the system correctly. Try LS6427's method, it works. I followed his instructions when I flushed my radiator, PS system, etc...
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so i bled the system for a good time today, she never went above 210. it rained and when i took her out she got up to runnign temp wuick but stayed solid, even did a couple pulls and she stayed just under 210. gonna try bleeding her a little more tommarrow and then take her up to raliegh and see how she handles on a longer trip.
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From: So.Cal.
Did you bleed the air from the highest point (the end of the steam crossover tube)...?
If you see no air coming out from this point (slip on a length of clear tube to see better), then there is no air.
If you see no air coming out from this point (slip on a length of clear tube to see better), then there is no air.
Teching In
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From: Jacksonville, FL
have an LT1 engine 97 to be exact and when im running (moving) the temp gauge is at the quarter mark but when im stopped it reaches a little past 210 im a little concerned but after it hits the mark it opens a thermostat and i goes a little below 210 and the cycle repeats. i need to flush the system cause it sounds like I myslelf may have a little air in my system as well
