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Heater not blowing hot

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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 03:57 PM
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Default Heater not blowing hot

AC blows extremely cold... Heater is warm at best, enough to knock the chill off and that is about it, gets to as warm as it is going to get in an appropriate amount of time.

They blow hard enough on the correct settings, it just isn't hot.

Throw some ideas out of what I need to start checking/replacing... Starting to get cold!

02 Ws6

I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it but my power steering sometimes works and sometimes doesn't. Nothing is burnt, it has fluid in it, etc... It just sometimes decides it doesn't want to fully assist.
It has the power steering cooler, this maybe need to be "fixed"?

Last edited by lemons12; Nov 17, 2012 at 04:04 PM.
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 04:43 PM
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Yea....do that power steering cooler delete....and add in an aftermarket one. Literally a 20 minute job and $40-$50. Do it before it pops and contaminates the entire cooling system and engine block and heads. Not to mention kills all the rubber hoses and the seals for the tranny cooler in the radiator (if you have an auto).......

You might want to pop both heater core hoses off the water pump ports.....takes a couple minutes to do that. Then stick the garden hose into one hose end and blow out the heater core. I do this every couple years, my heater core is my 14+ year old original. I actually just cleaned mine again today because my engine is out....I filled it with Formula 88 degreaser and I'm letting it sit overnight.......then I'll blow it all out with the garden hose.....

Now...clogs are pretty rare, at least ones that keep the coolant from flowing. But try to clean it, its probably never been done....

Other than that....when you turn the HOT/COLD **** to HOT maybe the cable is binding up and not fully opening to HOT.

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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 07:04 PM
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If you don't know the maintenance history of the car, then a full cooling system flush would be a good idea. Blockage/sludge in the heater core could be causing reduced flow and thus less heat.

If there is a blockage, once you get the system cleaned you shouldn't need to blow out the heater core again so long as you change the coolant every 2-3 years. This is what I do with mine, the whole system is still original and functions perfectly after 14 years. Sludge and blockages come from coolant neglect (or leaks allowing air into the system that results in sludge), and won't be an issue if you change it regularly.

Once, I had a t-stat get stuck open and the engine only warmed up enough to provide luke warm heat at cruise in the cold weather. Might want to consider a new t-stat when you service the coolant.
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
you shouldn't need to blow out the heater core again so long as you change the coolant every 2-3 years. This is what I do with mine, the whole system is still original and functions perfectly after 14 years. Sludge and blockages come from coolant neglect (or leaks allowing air into the system that results in sludge), and won't be an issue if you change it regularly.
Doesn't matter is the coolant is kept clean, a film still builds up inside the entire cooling system, engine, heads, radiator, hoses, block and heater core. Next time you have an open part of the system.....just wipe your finger across the inside of something...a hose, t-stat housing, water pump ports, etc....
There's always a film of gook that is there. I degrease my entire system regularly...its the only way to keep it clean. Or just use straight water, which I won't do, I like a little biy of anti-freeze in there. A flush with any kind of flush kit from the auto parts stores....just doesn't work. Degreaser is the only thing that has ever removed that film of gook for me.

Coolant moving through the system and touching the metal parts of the radiator without that film of gook allows the cooling process and heat transfer process to work much better.

Once, I had a t-stat get stuck open and the engine only warmed up enough to provide luke warm heat at cruise in the cold weather. Might want to consider a new t-stat when you service the coolant.
Good point. But I would expect engine overheating issues to be associated with a partially opening t-stat......

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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 04:04 AM
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
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Originally Posted by LS6427
Doesn't matter is the coolant is kept clean, a film still builds up inside the entire cooling system, engine, heads, radiator, hoses, block and heater core. Next time you have an open part of the system.....just wipe your finger across the inside of something...a hose, t-stat housing, water pump ports, etc....
There's always a film of gook that is there. I degrease my entire system regularly...its the only way to keep it clean. Or just use straight water, which I won't do, I like a little biy of anti-freeze in there. A flush with any kind of flush kit from the auto parts stores....just doesn't work. Degreaser is the only thing that has ever removed that film of gook for me.
I have had no issues with either of mine that have ever required such extensive flushing after all these years. If there is any film, it's not enough to cause me any issues with heater function nor engine cooling.

Perhaps your engine build pushes your cooling system to the ragged edge of adequacy, thus anything that has even a minor effect is enough to cause you cooling issues? In my experience, with milder applications, this has not been necessary for proper cooling system operation.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 07:01 PM
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That is what I was leaning towards, thanks fellas.

I will do the power steering mod (This is M6 DD also) this upcoming weekend and I will flush the core soon.

I'm just use to the scalding hot heat the fbody cars are known for and this isn't cutting it.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 11:04 AM
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I need to figure out why i'm not getting any heat
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