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Hard to start when hot???

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Old Mar 19, 2023 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Just as was mentioned in other posts ~10 years ago above, this sounds like a textbook case of check valve failure.

Are you saying that you replaced the pump back in 2014 but that never solved the issue? Or did you never end up doing that?

If the whole pump assembly/module was never replaced, then that's what I would still recommend.
thank you for your reply…

I never replaced anything although I said I would.

question, if it is a check valve, why are the pressures different when it is hot or cold?

why don’t I have ~60 psi everytime I turn on the key, regardless of hot or cold?

Last edited by bgw70; Mar 19, 2023 at 05:04 PM.
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Old Mar 19, 2023 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bgw70
question, if it is a check valve, why are the pressures different when it is hot or cold?

why don’t I have ~60 psi everytime I turn on the key, regardless of hot or cold?
I would default to jimmyblue's explanation below for that one:

Originally Posted by jimmyblue
Hot fuel in the rails will raise pressure there and force it
against the checkvalve's ability to hold pressure, and it
will do that until fuel has left the rails (vapor, you can get
lots of volume where cold gas would quit pushing shortly).
Then you have a void to fill, in a dead-head system that
can only be done with a lot of pedal (opening the injectors)
and time@pressure.

A check valve that leaks back a little, cold, but leaves
the line full (enough) can be a real problem hot when you
have a vapor push wanting to have a go at it.
Either way, the rapid bleed down is indicative of a problem with the pump module (unless there is an external fuel leak). The pressure has to be going somewhere that it shouldn't.
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Old Mar 20, 2023 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
I would default to jimmyblue's explanation below for that one:

Either way, the rapid bleed down is indicative of a problem with the pump module (unless there is an external fuel leak). The pressure has to be going somewhere that it shouldn't.
thank you for your respected replies along with Jimmy blue’s.
I do believe the problem is in the fuel tank. I don’t plan to cut a hole in the trunk for access and will only drop the fuel tank if the problem gets worse since this car is mostly a garage queen.

I sure wish the solution was an easier fix.

I will report back when the problem must be fixed.
until then, this is just another thread with no real answer to this issue many have reported over the years.

I still plan to make a follow up video showing the pressure symptoms when the engine is hot

Last edited by bgw70; Mar 21, 2023 at 06:32 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2023 | 06:51 PM
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I did some reading today and as stated before, look to the fuel tank.
hope this helps someone answer their question to this common issue.

In my situation and according to the manual, it is either the Fuel Injectors (which I doubt) or one of two items in the fuel tank (Fuel Pump or Pressure Regulator).

I don’t think it’s the fuel injector(s) because I cycled ignition (key on, key off) 10 times and the engine started right up and no black smoke, stumbling or raw fuel smell.
if it was leaking injectors, I should’ve had a flooded condition.







Last edited by bgw70; Mar 22, 2023 at 07:39 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2023 | 09:30 AM
  #25  
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vapor lock?
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Old Mar 23, 2023 | 02:20 PM
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
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Originally Posted by SteveC
vapor lock?
I think the OP has the cause of this narrowed down and likely figured out, sounds like it's just a matter of if/when the issue gets to a point where he wants to repair it.
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Old Apr 18, 2024 | 04:54 PM
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Default What’s the verdict

Did you guy ever figure out how to resolve this issue because mine won’t start when hot either.
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