Okay, so I apologize ahead of time if this should be in one of the specific sections. Feel free to move it it so. Also, I realize this issue has been beaten to death, but my issue is more confusing.

I got in the car the other day to make my 130 mile commute back to school after the weekend. The security light was illuminated. Not flashing, but solid. The car had not been "broken into" or anything, nor have I placed a mismatched key in the ignition. That's curious...but okay. I made the drive without any issues and got back to school, then got on here and began reading (8+ hours of reading threads across 3 different boards, so yes.... I used "search").

Important: The car never once hesitated to start before, during or after all my attempts to fix the light, and everything works exactly as it should. The light is just on at all times...

Here's what I've tried
-Clean the key pellet with a pencil eraser and alcohol- Check. Nothing.
-Turn key to ON, let sit for 10 minutes, then OFF, repeat 2x more- Check. Nothing.
-Read key- Check. 3.01 on 20k setting...so #9 key-3010 ohms
-Make a resistor for VATS bypass (3 1k ohm in series)- Check. Nothing
-Try every other way of positioning resistor- Check. Nothing (Used electrical tape, only have basic tools here at school)
-Last resort: Unplug battery, pull 2 radio fuses and PCM BAT, let sit for 15 minutes, plug everything back in, and turn back on- Check. Nothing.
-Start car again in case some sort of sorcery took place and made it go away- Check.
-Put everything back together, sit in car and curse violently, put a dip in and walk away- Check, check, and CHECK



Here's the thing that's got me confused... After the first VATS bypass attempt, I turned the key on with the VATS unplugged and it started right up, with the light still on, of course. Note: VATS unplugged and NO resistor in place. I haven't cleaned the ignition cylinder contacts, but given the previous things attempted, I don't think that would help. Riddle me this though...Why would it even start with the connector unplugged and without the resistor in there? Does that suggest that the BCM itself has an issue, rather than anything involving the steering column? Everything works perfectly.. windows, radio, etc.

I talked to the GM dealership and they didn't want to touch it. The local locksmiths, repair shops, and Radio Shack didn't help whatsoever either. I know it probably won't be a big deal to drive it as is, but this car has been the epitome of Murphy's Law, and I don't want it to **** the bed on me halfway home if I stop to get gas or something. Staring at the light isn't an option for me though, and I refuse to simply put tape over it, so I'd really like to get down to the root of the problem asap.

I'll probably tinker with it the rest of the week, but if any of you guys can give me some insight or suggestions, I'd be extremely grateful. Thanks in advance for any help.