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Old Apr 12, 2013 | 03:40 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
This may be true for their regular line Mobil 1 oils, but it is DEFINITELY NOT true for their 0W-40, or racing line.

Their 0W-40 meets or beats ALL of the most stringent Euro (Merc/Porsche/Audi) specs, has a very good viscosity index (only beat by Red Line in this weight), uses better base stocks than their regular M1 line, and has a very high ZDDP/moly/calcium/etc. content in it's add pack.
+1

Plus, when Autozone or Oreilly run their oil specials you can get 5 quarts of the 0w-40 Euro Blend and a Mobil 1 filter for around $34 total. Hard to beat.

No piston slap in the TA and no lifter tick in the 3000GT.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 02:37 AM
  #22  
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I haven't read that much on the Mobil Racing oils... For the Mobil1 stuff, they cut ZDDP and had a bad problem with shearing...

How's the MR line's shear stability?
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 07:20 AM
  #23  
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I'm no expert, but I have used 10w-40 in my 94' 4.3v6 since the first oil change. After 19 years and 297,000 miles it still holds 50psi at hot idle and has never had a cover off of the engine.
My WS6 has 5w-30 in it and I am considering using 10w-40 in it also.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 10:09 AM
  #24  
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whilest on this subject, 10w30 high milage mobil1 synthetic is what i got in a 115k mile stock internal 99 ls1.
Is it odd that i see nearly 80 psi of oil pressure sometimes? gauge never gets below 60 psi. i dunno if its the gauge or is 10w30 waay to heavy for us?
car runs great, just 80 psi oil pressure WTF!!!!!! not that im complaining
meanwhile when on the gas my gauge drops, off throttle it raises, but thats probably normal

i know i know
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 10:56 AM
  #25  
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
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Originally Posted by roninsonic
I haven't read that much on the Mobil Racing oils... For the Mobil1 stuff, they cut ZDDP and had a bad problem with shearing...
It's not just Mobil 1. Most off-the-shelf oils have been cutting ZDDP for years now due to concerns over emissions system damage. Their 0W40, as stated a few posts earlier, seems to be in a bit of a different class from their "regular" oils.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 01:51 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
It's not just Mobil 1. Most off-the-shelf oils have been cutting ZDDP for years now due to concerns over emissions system damage. Their 0W40, as stated a few posts earlier, seems to be in a bit of a different class from their "regular" oils.
Quite true.^^^

The M1 0W-40 still has the same relatively high ZDDP levels as their high mileage lineup, and their 15W-50/5W-50 (MUCH higher than the current thinner oil grade SM/SN rated oils are allowed to have).

As far as the M1 Racing stuff goes, the strong base stocks used will stand up to MAJOR shearing/heat, BUT they put almost no TBN boosting/detergent additives (calcium/boron/mag./etc.) in this stuff, being pure RACING oil (it says "not for street use" right on the label/product data sheets).

So I would NOT trust it for a very long OCI (oil change interval), and for the $15.00-$22.00/quart most places are getting for it, it also makes NO sense for street use.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 10:24 PM
  #27  
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I used to use German Castrol 0-30 year round. It was good from cold winters through brutally hot KS summers. But it was expensive and my valvetrain was noisy with it.

In recent years, I've used TropArtic 5-30 in Fall/Winter/Spring and Rotella dino T-3 10-30 in Summer. I wouldn't use a dino oil any thicker than that in an LS1.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 10:54 PM
  #28  
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NOTICE.........

I called Valvoline and went back and forth with emails to their warranty department. I was asking if their oil warranty program would cover my new AES 390ci forged iron block. They said YES....
I told them its an LSx type block and I upgraded some of the internal parts to better parts. They said fine. They said all I have to do is keep all the receipts showing every oil change I use Valvoline oil and oil changes every 3,000 miles.....pif any "oiled part" fails or causes the engine failure, it's covered up to $5,000. They said any ASE certified shop or a dealership can do the work and submit the claim. And of course, we all know someone who has an ASE shop. Most race/speed shops are also ASE.

So my brand new AES 390ci is getting VR1 20w50, which is also what AES recommends for their 390ci's......

Valvoline will cover it to 225,000 miles. $5,000 is plenty for R&R the engine and a full rebuild and tune.

Sweet......

.
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 03:00 AM
  #29  
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
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Originally Posted by LS6427
So my brand new AES 390ci is getting VR1 20w50, which is also what AES recommends for their 390ci's.......
VR1 should do just fine. This is another high ZDDP content oil that is not manufactured to GF-3/GF-4 or higher energy conserving ratings, and therefore is safe for flat tappet/extreme roller applications.

Valvoline lists the Zinc/Phosphorus content of this oil at 1400ppm/1300ppm, and although there is a VOA or two floating around from Blackstone that shows lower numbers, I've also seen VOAs from other independent labs that confirm Valvoline's rating, so I think Blackstone is in error.

Also, unlike their NSL (not street legal) racing oil, VR1 has proper detergents for typical street use change intervals.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 01:49 AM
  #30  
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I've personally never gave much of a **** about recommended OCI's... I change my oil like clockwork every 2500-3000 miles, or after a weekend of beating my car like a redheaded stepchild, whichever comes first. Overkill? Possibly... But it's cheap insurance, methinks.
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