transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

I have an '01 Firehawk M6. I've had the car for about 22k miles now and the entire time the SES light and Security light have been on however no issues. SES light is on because of rear o2's. No other trouble codes present.

I recently swapped out the beaten down t56 with a T56 Magnum from Summit Racing Equipment. Pretty straight forward swap and install but then I started having the issues.

Driving home at normal operating highway speeds it felt like i hit an invisible wall and the RPM's dropped to zero. I pulled off to the side of the road and the car fired right back up. It did this about 12x on the way home. Now it has turned into not starting at all or starting up when it wants to and driving fine.

Has good fuel pressure however when the random shut off or no start is present i have no spark. I took it to a wiring guy and he went through the entire car and said the wiring is good and he couldn't find anything. Thinking it might be the VATS system in it however when i unplug the ignition wiring (used in the VATS delete-orange shrink tubing with two white wires in one end and the other with purple and black) and put the key in it will fire up as well. Sometimes it will fire up and other times wont...just seems to be doing what it wants when it wants. The car will turn over just no spark. Other times the car will fire up without a care in the world and drive fine.

I looked inside the ignition and it is wore out. thinking of replacing the ignition cylinder but i do not want to be chasing my tail trying to figure this thing out. i should also add that i have a brand new key that has the same issues

SMKE EM

iTrader: (2)

You looked inside the ignition? The ignition switch you mean?

How do you know it has no spark on all 8? Did you check all 8 or only one coil?

transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

inside the ignition cylinder where you put the key is wore out...i checked all 8 and no spark when i have this issue.

transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

anyone have any idea?

Alex L.

iTrader: (16)

I had a similar issue when the rear o2 simulator wires were torn and making contact (on the tranny). That caused my car to do the same thing. Except in my case it would blow a fuse.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Change your Crank Shaft Position sensor.......that's the exact symptoms when they start to fail. And NO......it will usually not throw a code till it totally fails and you are stuck somewhere.

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transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

replaced the crankshaft sensor a couple weeks ago since the car has 96k and it was cheap enough to just do. same issues...ordered a new ignition cylinder will get it tomorrow and install it. I tried taking a reading from the current cylinder with my ohm meter and it is not registering...hopefully this will solve the issue and get that Security off for the first time since I've owned the car. will update later once its installed and i get the key made.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Only other thing that can kill the engine dead is the Cam Shaft position sensor.......I think it will cut the fuel off. crank Shaft position sensor kills spark.

I didn't think VATS could mess with spark or fuel while the engine is running......I thought it only caused a no start issue.

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transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

the only thing i could think of is maybe while the car is running it lost the connection in the ignition cylinder and killed the engine? its a long shot but im hoping this will fix the issue...otherwise i think the camshaft position sensor will be next.

transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

Replaced the ignition cylinder lock today. Once i got it apart and took a look inside i noticed one of the white wires were broken. i got a little excited but then quickly came back down because i have terrible luck. put it all back together with the new ignition cylinder and NO DICE! the security light went off but still no start. cranks over just as it did before but still a no start. i guess thats one small victory amongst the many battles that remain with this car. tomorrow i will be replacing the camshaft position sensor in hopes that it will cure the issue. anyone else has some feedback or advice let me know.

dailydriver

You are also supposed to do the re-learn procedure after BOTH the crank AND camshaft position sensor replacements.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

No need. The programs are saved in the PCM, not in the sensor. Only time a relearn needs to be done is when a PCM is changed or its wiped out.

I've changed Crank sensors and Cam sensors....just start it up and go, idle is perfectly normal automatically.

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lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

Swap out your ignition relay with your AC relay and see if she fires up. You will lose spark on all cylinders if that relay isn't making contact.

What is strange is that this happened after your trans install. I know you changed the crank sensor but maybe you pinched some wiring somewhere? Make sure no wiring is between the trans and engine.

Start with swapping relays though since it is free and easy.

transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

well the camshaft position sensor was replaced. car fired right up and i let it run for about 5-10 min. decided to take it for a test drive with my brother in law on "stand by". made it almost a full mile before the rpms dropped and it died with a no start afterwards. car is currently at the shop because my brother in law and i have ran out of ideas and at this point i am just throwing money at it to try to fix the problem.

i should add that after the cam sensor and ignition cylinder was replaced the Security light and SES light turned off...however once the car died again the SES light came back on and shot out the code for '1-4 Shift Solenoid'. I dont know if that will help anyone but any info helps i suppose...

Alex L.

iTrader: (16)

check your CAGS. It's also in the tranny area. If the wires are bad it could cause this issue. I thought I had this issue with rear 02s but now that i think about it the bad wires may have been on the CAGS unit.

transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

im starting to think it is a bad wire somewhere but i've checked all the areas to do with the trans install and while i had the intake off i re-checked the the harness around that area. hopefully i'll have more answers tomorrow from the shop. i've also done the relays and even have a few good ones laying around...still nah-dah

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

You check the ground wires attached the back of the passengers side head......?

PCM wire bundle could have a shorted ground wire too. It happened to me. If the engine will start and idle......grab the wire bundle with your hand and move it back and forth....forward and backward. See if the engine dies or changes in any way. If it does then the PCM-to-engine ground wire is frayed or shorted out.

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transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

Shop called me and told me it is a bad ground going to one of the coil packs...i dont know how me or my brother in law missed that but im having them fix it just in case it does it again so i can have someone else to blame!! LOL...also thanks to everyones help on here. this is THE place to come to for ANY fbody questions or concerns...i cant tell you how many times when it comes to swapping parts etc ive looked on here for help

dailydriver

I guess this is also why ECS did not have to do the re-learn when they changed my crank damper/balancer for me yesterday either? (Even though the Helms says to do it for this as well.)