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Old Jun 22, 2013 | 02:55 PM
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Default Compressor help!

On this is urgent, I live in Texas and its summer. Hot as ****. I'm going on here before I spend money. 2weeks ago had finished my swap. Then put 2 cans of coolant or whatever. (On a Monday) ******* Saturday afternoon turned it on and it had no more coolant. Hot as **** air. Took it this morning to an a/c guy said my compressor was leaking. New compressor? Dont know anythjng about ac and i heard guys that just replace o rings that have gone bad.is it true and how can i tell? What's weird is that it still clutches as if it picked up pressure, even tho it has no freon
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Old Jun 22, 2013 | 04:54 PM
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Year/Model? Clutching if it is empty IS weird - it should not do that. Which leads to the obvious question of "are you sure"? The pressure it is looking at is downstream of the compressor I believe so even low suction might give it a little discharge pressure. But if you were empty of freon, it wouldn't even try.
Normally if you replace anything you need to replace the dryer and get new freon and oil put in. The "cans" are not meant to completely recharge your system and can cause serious damage by themselves. If you don't know what you are doing, then have someone else do the work. You might be able to save some $$ getting parts yourself. If it's "leaking", have them put dye in it and show you where.
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 05:34 PM
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It's 2001 ss, I took it to an a/c guy to recharge it. At first he was messing with the high and low pressure tubes but the a/c worked great for a weak. Just one day it was completely out. After coming back from his shop. I turned it one full speed and I swear I saw the clutch engage which left me confused. If I really did need to replace my compressor why does it engage?
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by richard_956
It's 2001 ss, I took it to an a/c guy to recharge it. At first he was messing with the high and low pressure tubes but the a/c worked great for a weak. Just one day it was completely out. After coming back from his shop. I turned it one full speed and I swear I saw the clutch engage which left me confused. If I really did need to replace my compressor why does it engage?
So you do not "know", you just think you saw it?? Can you hear the clutch engage? Does your idle change from it (it should)? NOrmally if it is engaging you will have some freon pressure and some cool/cold air. If it is not engaging it will be the same as the air around it or maybe a little warmer.

Also, the compressor could be leaking but still working - so just because it engages doesn't mean it doesn't have a leak and needs fixed.
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 09:18 PM
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If the seals in the compressor are bad that's where it's leaking from. If there's still a little bit of r134 left in the system it might be enough for the clutch to engage before the low pressure switch shuts it off. You can keep adding 134 and it will keep working until it runs out but you should just replace the compressor/accumulator, and orifice tube. Flush all the lines out good also.
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 01:43 AM
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Yeah I checked again and this time it didnt engage. Guess the rest of the freon leaked out. No doubt it works. Didnt have a problem with it before. How can I fix the leaks
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 02:13 AM
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Put some dye in the system and you'll know where it's leaking from......might be an inexpensive hose/line......

.
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by richard_956
Yeah I checked again and this time it didnt engage. Guess the rest of the freon leaked out. No doubt it works. Didnt have a problem with it before. How can I fix the leaks
As the other guy said.. you need to get it refilled but with dye so they can identify ALL of the areas that it is leaking at. You might need to do this with a GM tech or someone with a scanner-I've had to force on the compressor before to get the freon in the system enough to clear the low pressure stop.
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 12:32 AM
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There is NO low pressure switch. Only a pressure TRANSDUCER that the PCM uses to read the system pressure.
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by RockinWs6
There is NO low pressure switch. Only a pressure TRANSDUCER that the PCM uses to read the system pressure.
Dude, what's your point? It serves the same function.
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 07:46 AM
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My point is its NOT COCC system, It does not cycle the compressor. OP needs to scan the PCM to see what its seeing from the transducer. Sometimes they stop working properly and cause problems. If the system shows proper pressure on the gauges but the compressor is not coming on It could be the transducer.

OP says the compressor is on sometimes.....................
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by RockinWs6
My point is its NOT COCC system, It does not cycle the compressor. OP needs to scan the PCM to see what its seeing from the transducer. Sometimes they stop working properly and cause problems. If the system shows proper pressure on the gauges but the compressor is not coming on It could be the transducer.

OP says the compressor is on sometimes.....................
He said he thought it was on once, and when he checked again it definitely wasn't. Again though, how would a transducer that tells the PCM to turn the system off if pressure is too low be different than if it was just a switch? Nitpicking other posters isn't helping this guy, and the difference your worried about is irrelevant.
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 03:07 PM
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With hp tuners you can engage the clutch without the engine running. I'd imagine a good scan toll could do the same. This will rule out the cultch engaging or not. You can also run a jumper from a 12v source to the connector on the compressor. I haven't done it personally but the computer sends a 12v signal to engage the clutch.

From there do what has been said. Fill it and have them put the dye in it. At work we put the dye in every time so we can check for leaks before it goes back to the customer. The dye SHOULD already be in it since you paid someone to charge it. Shine a uv flashlight on it and you'll find the leak. Could be anything from a seal to a pinhole in the line or condenser.
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 10:22 PM
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Default Another Idea

OP -

A length of wire to circumvent the A/C relay will also start the compressor running without using a laptop.

If you are just trying to check for Freon Dye leaks, that's another method.

Originally Posted by 1320Chicken
With hp tuners you can engage the clutch without the engine running. I'd imagine a good scan toll could do the same. This will rule out the cultch engaging or not. You can also run a jumper from a 12v source to the connector on the compressor. I haven't done it personally but the computer sends a 12v signal to engage the clutch.

From there do what has been said. Fill it and have them put the dye in it. At work we put the dye in every time so we can check for leaks before it goes back to the customer. The dye SHOULD already be in it since you paid someone to charge it. Shine a uv flashlight on it and you'll find the leak. Could be anything from a seal to a pinhole in the line or condenser.
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 10:22 AM
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You can also disconnect the battery and put as much r134 in as it will take with the car not running. Hook the battery back up, turn the air on and there should be enough in there to allow the compressor to kick on. Charge it up and add some dye.
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