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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 08:07 PM
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Default Vats???

Can anyone tell me how many parts to the VATS system there are? For instance, I had an issue with my car not starting about 2 months ago. After some searching I determined it was the common issue with the wires in the ignition. I did the resistor bypass and it worked. Since then however I'm sometimes unable to start the car like before. However if I just arm the alarm and wait for the light to go off it will then start.

To be safe I took the resistor out and redid the whole thing, and I guess it won't hurt to try again. However if that isn't the problem what else could it be? It has also done this without the security light coming on and when that happens there's no telling how long it will take to start it. The Security light comes on when I'm driving often aswell but always goes off in a few minutes. Once it's started though it runs fine. What else could be going wrong with it?
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 07:55 PM
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i'd like to see some response on this. i'm having similar issues.
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 10:20 PM
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I went thru a long winded hell with my t/a. Did a bypass resistor and that worked for a while then it became an intermittent starting problem again. Replaced the ignition switch because I knew that the vatts wires were broken on the switch. That worked briefly than it would not start again. I had to have the bcm re flashed to a different key resistance.
Never had a problem since. i never did try my alarm in the process like you say. You probably have a problem with the bcm. Could be many things. I even switched the relays under the hood (starter and fuel pump) just to make sure.My security light never came on while driving.
If you have the bypass resistor in place then I would take a guess and say its the BCM.I DID MASSIVE AMOUNTS OF LOOKING AT POATS ON THIS SITE.
I hope this helps.Keep us posted if you can think of more symptions.

Last edited by transwiz; Sep 20, 2013 at 10:26 PM.
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 11:27 AM
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I have had issues for the last year or so, i would put my key in the ignition and if i turned it to let the fuel pump run, my security light would come on and i would have to wait for the light to go out then i would have to quick turn the key before the light came on and it would work....countless thread searches later i had a list of stuff it could be, before i tore into my ignition and and resistor and all that stuff, i read that somebody just cleaned their key and it worked, so before i spent any money, i tried the simplest solution first and cleaned my key (that looked just fine to me to begin with).....bam. no issue...im curious to see if my tumblers and whatever is inside the ignition has some light corrosion causing false resistor failure also, but until i have a problem again, i will clean the key again and if that doesnt work (and knowing that my key resistor is still good), i'd start troubleshooting from the ignition back to the bcm. hopefully its a simple fix for ya!
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 09:18 AM
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My car is doing the exact same thing, Car ran fine the other day took it off the trailer and put it in the garage. Last night went to start it to do a little tuning and nothing. Battery is juiced up, starter tested and works, relays changed out. Go to start the car and can feel the relays clicking but starter doesnt engage. So my next things is soider the BCM. Doing it tonight so ill post on here if that fixes the problem.
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Z28Caves60
My car is doing the exact same thing, Car ran fine the other day took it off the trailer and put it in the garage. Last night went to start it to do a little tuning and nothing. Battery is juiced up, starter tested and works, relays changed out. Go to start the car and can feel the relays clicking but starter doesnt engage. So my next things is soider the BCM. Doing it tonight so ill post on here if that fixes the problem.
Did that solve the issue?
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