Overheating only when stopped and fans do work
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Chicagoland
Overheating only when stopped and fans do work 2001 Ws6 overheating only when I come to a stop. I have an LQ9 pro-charged running the stock radiator and a 160 T-Stat. Fans are working.
I can drive the car all day no problem but when I come to a stop the temp climbs fast. I was going to get a new radiator and a 180 T-Stat but not really sure which brand to get and since I switched to a different transmission which radiator to get. Any help greatly appreciated
Driving temp coolant temp read out on my scanner is anywhere from 169-180 however will quickly climb to 215-220 when stopped. One time I drove 50 miles to the track and while waiting in line to get in it climbed to 245 before I shut the car down and popped the hood.
I can drive the car all day no problem but when I come to a stop the temp climbs fast. I was going to get a new radiator and a 180 T-Stat but not really sure which brand to get and since I switched to a different transmission which radiator to get. Any help greatly appreciated
Driving temp coolant temp read out on my scanner is anywhere from 169-180 however will quickly climb to 215-220 when stopped. One time I drove 50 miles to the track and while waiting in line to get in it climbed to 245 before I shut the car down and popped the hood.
well the primary purpose of a thermostat is to keep the water/anti-freeze in the engine block till it heats up to temperature, so switching to a 180 from a 160 isn't going to improve cooling, infact it will prevent you from getting back down to the 169 range when driving (after the car has had a chance to warm up).
when you did the motor swap did you clean out the radiator real good? these old dexcool cars tend to build up a lot of sludge in the radiator if not properly maintained. Also make sure you have the cooling system properly bled. I was having a minor overheat problem (215-220) when idling after driving for half an hour and now even with straight water and cascade complete (part of my flushing process) I haven't even hit 210 when idling.
when you did the motor swap did you clean out the radiator real good? these old dexcool cars tend to build up a lot of sludge in the radiator if not properly maintained. Also make sure you have the cooling system properly bled. I was having a minor overheat problem (215-220) when idling after driving for half an hour and now even with straight water and cascade complete (part of my flushing process) I haven't even hit 210 when idling.
Definitely make sure it's properly bled. That's the only time mine eve ran hot. Are you sure the fans are kicking to high speed? Are you basing your temps off the factory temp gauge?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7
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From: Chicagoland
The temp readings are being taken from a scanner I have which shows live coolant temp. The motor swap was done by a local shop and previous owner so not sure what was done or not. I did purchase a new aftermarket radiator but I will stick with my current T-Stat (Thanks Dan!). This weekend I will be installing the new radiator and will reply with my findings
the stock cooling system can easily handle your set up.
The biggest single thing I did with my 427ci was changed from my 160 tstat to a 180 t-stat. my temps were overall lower at all times. The 160 falls on its face, if you will, once things reach that pount of no return.....then it will never shut completely and hot coolant will continue to flow through the system....NEVER giving the HOT coolant a long enough period to sit in the radiator to cool down before re-entering the engine. Then at some point the 160 t-stat will stay fully open and now you are sitting in a big water heater that will never cool down unless you cruise steady on the highway and let the air dam do the cooling.
the 180 t-stat will close....when the 160 t-stat will not close........the t-stat MUST be allowed to close so the HOT coolant has enough sit time in the radiator. the 160 t-stat doesn't allow that to happen.
Try the 180......it worked on my 427ci, and it keeps my new iron block 390ci cool also.......make sure your fans are coming on TOGETHER and that they run in both HIGH and LOW speed settings.
Also, if you removed the factory black plastic shroud and/or the front air deflection panel in front of the condenser near the air lid....or modified either too much.....you are doomed. That shroud is the most important part of a healthy cooling system. Lots of turbo and sc'er set ups remove that shroud......you cannot do that. Its very hard to make custom shrouds work.
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The biggest single thing I did with my 427ci was changed from my 160 tstat to a 180 t-stat. my temps were overall lower at all times. The 160 falls on its face, if you will, once things reach that pount of no return.....then it will never shut completely and hot coolant will continue to flow through the system....NEVER giving the HOT coolant a long enough period to sit in the radiator to cool down before re-entering the engine. Then at some point the 160 t-stat will stay fully open and now you are sitting in a big water heater that will never cool down unless you cruise steady on the highway and let the air dam do the cooling.
the 180 t-stat will close....when the 160 t-stat will not close........the t-stat MUST be allowed to close so the HOT coolant has enough sit time in the radiator. the 160 t-stat doesn't allow that to happen.
Try the 180......it worked on my 427ci, and it keeps my new iron block 390ci cool also.......make sure your fans are coming on TOGETHER and that they run in both HIGH and LOW speed settings.
Also, if you removed the factory black plastic shroud and/or the front air deflection panel in front of the condenser near the air lid....or modified either too much.....you are doomed. That shroud is the most important part of a healthy cooling system. Lots of turbo and sc'er set ups remove that shroud......you cannot do that. Its very hard to make custom shrouds work.
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