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2001 ls1 Voltage drain?

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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 12:21 PM
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Default 2001 ls1 Voltage drain?

Hey guys, on my t/a, whenever I'm accelerating hard, from about 3500rpms up, the headlights, and interior lights dim dramatically, and i can see the voltage needle go down. I've replaced the alternator with one of those load boss alternators, but im not sure if thats the issue...as it was doing this before with my old alt. I've got 168k on the motor, and just headers, exhaust, tune, suspension parts. What could this be?

Also, When im getting on it hard, when I shift, it feels like the clutch catch point changes..could this be air in the line? Thanks in advance
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 02:13 PM
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Try changing the fluid in your hydraulic clutch system. The fluid is prob getting hot causing clutch pedal loss.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 02:16 PM
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As for voltage loss. Hmmmm I would start by checking all battery connections to the battery, starter, and alt for looseness and corrosion and check engine ground block to frame ground.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 03:47 PM
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I'd start with the belt tensioner and make sure the witness mark on the tensioner is between the two index marks on the bracket.
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 10:17 PM
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Hate to sound obvious but get your battery load tested. If it's under 12.8v with the car off you either have a drain or a bad battery. I would drive to an auto store have them load test the battery, and check the voltage when running. Should be putting out close to 14v when running. If your battery is totally toast it can cause issues, cause it sucks more power from the alternator then a "good" battery normally would, causing voltage to fluctuate when you turn on a high drain device like AC or a sound system. A good battery acts as a buffer that keeps the voltage steady as demand spikes up and down. Even a good alternator can have voltage spikes if the battery is toast at low RPMS where the output is significantly less then what it's rated for. And make sure your side post terminals are "snug" but don't over tighten them the lead will start to strip and cause hard to diagnose intermittent battery issues.
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 02:01 AM
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Stock hydraulics on the clutch? Start with the drill mod. The fluid doesn't return fast enough in stock form. If that doesn't fix the engagement issue I would look into a clutch master cylinder from Tick. One of the best mods I've done.

How much voltage drop are we talking?" How low does the needle go? Everything straightens out once you get off of it? Could be the voltage regulator in the alternator going out. Vatozone can test it for you as well.
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