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Power window stops working

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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 09:15 AM
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Default Power window stops working

I'm having an issue with my drivers side power window. It keeps stopping when moving the window up or down. If you leave it 2 mins or so, it'll then work again, then stop.

But it won't go all the way or down without stopping at least once. When stopped it's firmly stopped and trying to move it up down (lifting/pushing the glass) has no affect.

I'm pretty sure the switch is working fine, tried it with a multimeter and circuit tester.

I've also by-passed the Express Down relay under the dash thinking it might be that.

I've had the door card off and the runners look fine, and the fact that if you leave it for 2 mins it works again, so I don't think anything is jamming.


This leaves only the motor. Although I'm surprised that manipulating the glass doesn't kick it into action after it stops.


My question is, any other ideas?


I've read once about some kind of overheat resistor for the motor. But can't find any other reference too it. Is there such a thing?

Replacing the motor looks like an unpleasant job. And I'm in England, so don't exactly have a parts store on the corner, to get a replacement motor either.


Thanks.
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 10:07 AM
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motor needs replacing. very common
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 01:18 PM
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it's a fairly commonly used motor have your local parts store do a search for Dorman part number 742-101 and if you don't mind making a few holes in a panel you never see it's actually pretty easy to do http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html i've done it once myself, probably 30 minutes all in.
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Old Jul 30, 2016 | 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 300bhp/ton
I've read once about some kind of overheat resistor for the motor. But can't find any other reference too it. Is there such a thing?
This IS the classic failure of the thermal resistor in the motor. It cuts the power when it senses the glass is all the way up or down so the motor doesn't burn out if someone lays on the switch. When the part goes bad, it activates prematurely. A few minutes go by, it cools down, and then the motor will work again.

This problem will get progressively worse for you until you'll get stranded at some point and won't be able to get the window up at all. The best course of action is to use the window sparingly until you can get it fixed.


Originally Posted by 300bhp/ton
Replacing the motor looks like an unpleasant job.
It's worse the first time. Look for the shbox instructions. It involves drilling some holes in the door - but they are structurally benign. It makes the job MUCH easier and it also has other benefits. Using this method saves you from removing the regulator. That task requires very specialized tools and rivets and permanent damage to the door (from drilling out the rivets) is unavoidable. The shbox method avoids all that.


Originally Posted by 300bhp/ton
And I'm in England, so don't exactly have a parts store on the corner, to get a replacement motor either.
There are kits that bypass power from the battery directly to the motor. These will slightly increase power to the motor and will help the motor perform more like new. Some tout them as a fix, but they are not. You still have a gimpy thermal resistor. I'm not a fan - but that may be an option. If you are handy with electronics, you can make the "kit" yourself.

These motors were also installed on GM cars dating back to the '60s, so you may be able to get the parts in Europe. However, they are likely reman and not very reliable. I'd suggest ordering a new part and waiting for the delivery.
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