DSL its really fast then 
oil change question
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
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newbie question on oil change (have searched, no luck) greetings, i have a 2001 z28, 6sp. i changed my own oil and have a moderate amount of mech. skills. my question is if i drain and replece my old oil (and install a new filter , wix brand) how much new oil (in quarts) should be put in? do i read the dipstick cold, at idle, warmed up and off or what?
also, why does this site take so long to load compared to others? LOTS of ggod info, just slow to load.
TIA
shawn
also, why does this site take so long to load compared to others? LOTS of ggod info, just slow to load.
TIA
shawn
TECH Regular
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 423
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From: Puget Sound, WA
Originally Posted by golddot
greetings, i have a 2001 z28, 6sp. i changed my own oil and have a moderate amount of mech. skills. my question is if i drain and replece my old oil (and install a new filter , wix brand) how much new oil (in quarts) should be put in? do i read the dipstick cold, at idle, warmed up and off or what?
also, why does this site take so long to load compared to others? LOTS of ggod info, just slow to load.
TIA
shawn
also, why does this site take so long to load compared to others? LOTS of ggod info, just slow to load.
TIA
shawn
There is a really good post on this somewhere. I know the guys on here will disagree w/ me but next time i am going to try royal purple. HP tv got an 8+ rwhp gain from this. I doubt that its anywhere near 8 but i could see it giving a small gain considering it help friction and heat. However this wasnt just engine oil but, transmission fluid, and diffrential oil, and purple ice for the radiater. I am going to give it a chance since i can get it for about what other synthetics cost.
I believe that most guys on here use a German castrol synthetic 0W30
I believe that most guys on here use a German castrol synthetic 0W30
Mine always takes 5 1/2qt. I aways read the dipstick with the oil warm, engine off, I usaully wait a couple of minutes for the oil to drain back to the pan before checking it.
BTW: I always use Mobil 1 super syn. 5w30 most of the time.
BTW: I always use Mobil 1 super syn. 5w30 most of the time.
Last edited by GM Muscle; Jun 19, 2004 at 11:30 AM.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 176
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thanks for the text link, MUCH BETTER!
as for the oil, i have always been a penzoil 10w30 man, but i have read patmans post and i am going to maybe try something different, i am just kinda hinky about swapping from old to synthetic old, i tried it one time in an old (HM) car and it seemed to only compound my problems.
i wish i could get DSL, i live in the sticks and our old lines will only support 26K, ughhh.... but my work, where i am at now, DSL and i use it all the time, sad when i have to come to work to surf LOL!!!
as for the oil, i have always been a penzoil 10w30 man, but i have read patmans post and i am going to maybe try something different, i am just kinda hinky about swapping from old to synthetic old, i tried it one time in an old (HM) car and it seemed to only compound my problems.
i wish i could get DSL, i live in the sticks and our old lines will only support 26K, ughhh.... but my work, where i am at now, DSL and i use it all the time, sad when i have to come to work to surf LOL!!!
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TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,234
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
You might as well just put in an even 6 quarts, and while you're at it, use a longer oil filter (which needs an extra 1/4qt or so anyhow). The ideal one for the f-body is the K&N HP2006.
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Originally Posted by GM Muscle
Mine always takes 5 1/2qt. I aways read the dipstick with the oil warm, engine off, I usaully wait a couple of minutes for the oil to drain back to the pan before checking it.
BTW: I always use Mobil 1 super syn. 5w30 most of the time.
BTW: I always use Mobil 1 super syn. 5w30 most of the time.
Originally Posted by Patman
You might as well just put in an even 6 quarts, and while you're at it, use a longer oil filter (which needs an extra 1/4qt or so anyhow). The ideal one for the f-body is the K&N HP2006.
Originally Posted by Patman
You might as well just put in an even 6 quarts, and while you're at it, use a longer oil filter (which needs an extra 1/4qt or so anyhow). The ideal one for the f-body is the K&N HP2006.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Charleston SC
Originally Posted by Patman
You might as well just put in an even 6 quarts, and while you're at it, use a longer oil filter (which needs an extra 1/4qt or so anyhow). The ideal one for the f-body is the K&N HP2006.
???or is the HP2006 just the longer one???
Thanks.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,234
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga, Ontario
Yep, the 1007 is the stock size one, the 2006 is the longer one, which will flow better too.
Unfortunately I can't use the longer filters when I get my C5, so I've purchased some 1007s instead.
Unfortunately I can't use the longer filters when I get my C5, so I've purchased some 1007s instead.
Since the oil filter mounts to the bottom of the engine, I have two tips.
- Before removing the old oil filter from the engine, punch a hole in the bottom of the oil filter with a hammer and a nail. Then let the old oil drain out of the old oil filter while old oil drains out of the oil pan. This way we don't get as much old oil cascading down the sides of the old oil filter when we remove it from the engine. One hole seems to be enough.
- Pour new oil directly into the new oil filter right before installing it on the engine. This way the oil pressure returns to "normal" faster than it would if we installed a "dry" new oil filter. I fill the new oil filter up to about 3/4 full with new oil, wait a minute or two for the element to aborb the new oil and get saturated, then fill up the new oil filter again so that the level is about 1 inch from the top.
Originally Posted by GM Muscle
Patman: I'll have to try that oil filter, thanks for the P/N.
BTW 5.5 qts for me.
