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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 11:57 AM
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Default Clutch safety switch

Hi guys, I've got a 2000 Firebird (manual) with an intermittent clutch safety switch issue. Has anyone had this issue?

Sometimes I have to bounce on the brake or clutch to get it to finally start up.

Other days, it fires up perfectly.

Should I just replace it or can it be adjusted? It's working fine most of the time.

I'd rather not bypass it.

Thanks!
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by kevinbushman
Hi guys, I've got a 2000 Firebird (manual) with an intermittent clutch safety switch issue. Has anyone had this issue?

Sometimes I have to bounce on the brake or clutch to get it to finally start up.

Other days, it fires up perfectly.

Should I just replace it or can it be adjusted? It's working fine most of the time.

I'd rather not bypass it.

Thanks!


If I remember correctly it can be adjusted like a brake light switch. I would try to adjust it using a meter.
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 08:29 AM
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Just take off the lower IP panel under the dash and look at it. You can turn it to adjust the engagement of the plunger and replacements are inexpensive and easy to get.
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 01:08 PM
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I think you're both thinking of the wrong switch. The clutch safety switch is the black one in the starting circuit, and has no adjustment.

OP, put a meter across the pins and press the switch by hand, see if you're getting an intermittent short. You can bypass it by shorting the two harness pins together if you're in a bind.
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Spartan7
I think you're both thinking of the wrong switch. The clutch safety switch is the black one in the starting circuit, and has no adjustment.
Sounds like you are talking about the shifter interlock for automatic transmissions.

We are talking about the clutch pedal switch, which senses the pedal being depressed and signals the that it's safe to start the car or that the cruise control should be cut off.

This switch is just like the brake pedal switch and is adjustable. It's common to adjust it after a master cylinder change or any other clutch change that would change the pedal travel.
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 04:30 PM
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No, I'm not. Maybe it's different for LS1 cars then? The clutch safety switch is the black switch pictured here.

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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Spartan7
No, I'm not. Maybe it's different for LS1 cars then? The clutch safety switch is the black switch pictured here.
I stand corrected - thanks. There are two switches. The one you are pointing out is indeed for the start function. The plunger (white unit just above the starting switch) is the "anticipate" switch and is only used for the cruise control.

I always assumed that the adjustable one did both...

The anticipate switch senses when the pedal is slightly pressed in. The start switch senses when the pedal is all the way down to the floor.
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 02:49 PM
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Correct. It's the same on LT cars, the adjustable clutch switch is only used for cruise control.

Now that it's been cleared up for OP, have you tried what I suggested as far as jumping the pins to bypass the switch? It only has two contacts.
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 04:22 PM
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Hi guys, yesterday I pulled apart the lower panel below the dash and had a look. @Spartan7, thanks for your picture. You confirmed I was looking at the right thing. I did not get in there with a meter unfortunately, but I am betting you're right about it intermittently shorting out.

I'll need to look up the best way to bypass this switch if i get in a bind. Seems there is a lot of information out there on how to do this.

I checked out the positioning and the clutch definitely touches down correctly on the switch. I'm guessing the best solution is to replace this switch?

If I get a chance again, i'll test it with a meter.
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 12:30 PM
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You can just jump the pins with a short section of wire. All the switch does is complete the circuit between the ignition switch and starter solenoid. If that's indeed the problem, then yes just replace the switch. They should be relatively cheap.
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Old Oct 9, 2023 | 02:31 PM
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I recently ran into this. The car only has 32500 miles on it. The slave cylinder took a dump so I decided to replace it all and upgrade to LS7 GM parts. Master, slave cylinders, clutch l, FW, etc. I had a reputable shop do it that’s worked on countless fbodies. After I got the car back with less than 50 miles the engine light comes on. I have it scanned with a scan tool and this was the fail, the clutch pedal sensor. I let the shop know, and they ghosted me like the plague, as it should be their responsibility - but that’s another issue. As it is a bought a new sensor, only seven dollars and installed it. I drove it about 10 miles after the install. Nothing changed. Not sure what to do at this point.

how did your situation end? Did you fix it with a simple sensor change?
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Old Oct 11, 2023 | 05:52 PM
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Check the wiring at that point, or that sensor is faulty. Grab a multimeter and have at it.
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