F-body keyless remote diagnostics
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,069
Likes: 74
From: Casselberry FL
F-body keyless remote diagnostics I've been flipping between both original remotes over the years. The one I had been using for months seems to have stopped transmitting as nothing will lock/unlock. I put in a new CR2032 battery (confirmed 3.3V), no change. Put another new battery (also 3.3V) in the spare fob, no change. I took out the radio fuse and tried to sync my current fob by flipping the ignition 3x, the doors lock/unlock automatically and then holding down lock/unlock for 15+s, but nothing ever happens. The backup fob behaves the same way. I do have the BCM issue where the radio/window will sometimes lose power but that problem isn't occurring at this time.
I guess I'll see if my local Autozone has a fob tester. What other diagnostics can I perform in lieu of throwing money at random parts? Could it be a BCM problem separate from the loose solder joints which intermittently cause the window/radio issue?
Edit: I read elsewhere "you hold LOCK and UNLOCK, and then release, and then hold LOCK, and the door locks will cycle again. Turn the key to OFF and you are good to go." I don't recall the manual saying to release L/U and the hold L. Let me try that....nope, no change, and the manual doesn't say anything about holding down L again.
I guess I'll see if my local Autozone has a fob tester. What other diagnostics can I perform in lieu of throwing money at random parts? Could it be a BCM problem separate from the loose solder joints which intermittently cause the window/radio issue?
Edit: I read elsewhere "you hold LOCK and UNLOCK, and then release, and then hold LOCK, and the door locks will cycle again. Turn the key to OFF and you are good to go." I don't recall the manual saying to release L/U and the hold L. Let me try that....nope, no change, and the manual doesn't say anything about holding down L again.
Last edited by JimMueller; May 16, 2017 at 09:06 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,069
Likes: 74
From: Casselberry FL
After getting irritated enough with it, I took both keyfobs to Autozone and used their keyfob tested. One of the employees used their keyfob on the tester and it lit up, and both of mine didn't light up. So I'll be replacing both of them sometime soon.
The other related agitation I have is that sometimes my drivers side lock will be very difficult to turn with the key (to the point where I feel I might break the key), and also when inside sometimes the unlock slide lever will be very difficult to slide, if it moves at all. After I took the door panel off, I couldn't duplicate the problem, the arm would slide normally. Is there something in the design that would intermittently cause that issue?
The other related agitation I have is that sometimes my drivers side lock will be very difficult to turn with the key (to the point where I feel I might break the key), and also when inside sometimes the unlock slide lever will be very difficult to slide, if it moves at all. After I took the door panel off, I couldn't duplicate the problem, the arm would slide normally. Is there something in the design that would intermittently cause that issue?
Maybe the linkage that the slide lever was on was bound up. If that plastic piece isn't on securely, it can jam up on the plastic trim or the metal linkage could bind up on things behind the panel.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,069
Likes: 74
From: Casselberry FL
I bought new official GM key fobs and installed brand new batteries. For a few months it had decent distance, maybe 20', but now it's back to being temperamental and I have to press unlock multiple times when I'm standing right next to the door or hatch. I already performed the BCM repair.
