Hi,

I am looking for a body control module for my '01 WS6 Trans Am. I believe the part number is 0935369. Does anyone know a source for these at this time. Last time I looked was awhile ago and they were pretty widely available, and inexpensive. My search this evening turned up nothing but "out of stock", "discontinued", and so forth.

Thanks for any help with this.


Best,

fastertransam

 

From what I've seen lately, you're probably going to have to buy a used one unless you get extremely lucky finding old stock somewhere. If you can get the original ignition key with a used one then replacement is simple. If not, you'll have to get a bunch of resistors (or one of those variable VATS boxes) to determine which one of the possible 14 resistor values match the VATS setting stored in the used BCM.

But the first question would be why do you think you need to replace the BCM? Most of the time, issues related to the BCM (especially the RAP circuit causing the radio and windows to cut out) can be repaired. Usually they are related to bad solder joints on the circuit board.

 

PM sent

 

Yeah, that's what it looks like, I just don't know if I can get a shop to repair the thing.

My car is doing some weird stuff, for sure. For example, when I use the door lock and the lights flash, the right turn signal light doesn't flash. The bulb is good. The turn signals don't work at all with the correct fuse [keeps blowing fuse], but if I put a breaker in the fuse panel, then they work. The cruise control is squirrelly [have to get going really fast to get it to start working], and there's the typical radio and window intermittent thing.

I don't know if it can all be attributed to the BCM or not. Its also eating alternators which has become costly.

Problem is that no shops want to dive in and spend hours troubleshooting, and I think replacing [or fixing] the BCM would probably solve the whole thing, or most of it.

Any thoughts?


Best,

fastertransam

 

Of those, only the lock confirmation light flash is even related to the BCM (other than the radio/window situation). The turn signals and cruise control don't interact with the BCM. I suspect a different cause for the lock confirmation flash because the BCM controls them through a single relay so if the BCM was at fault, neither side would flash. So replacing the BCM would only fix the radio/windows which can be fixed for free with a little solder.

The front turn signal bulbs have two filaments - a dim filament for the parking/running lights when the headlights are on and a bright filament for the turn signals and DRLs. The door lock confirmation flashes the parking lights (dim filament) so it is quite possible (likely) that the dim filament is burned out in the bulb while the bright filament is still fine. Turn on your headlights to see if that side lights up or swap the left and right bulbs to see if the problem changes to the other side. If the bulb really is okay then I would take a close look at the socket. Because of their location, those sockets get corroded quickly. Again, since the parking/running lights and the signals/DRLs are separate circuits, it's quite possible for corrosion to affect only one or the other.

You're going to need a test light and/or multimeter and some basic electrical skills to diagnose the turn signal problem. Obviously something in the circuit is drawing too much current causing the fuse to blow. It's not a dead short or the circuit breaker wouldn't work either but it could be dangerous so don't leave the circuit breaker or install a bigger fuse... you could end up burning your car to the ground due to overheating wires. If you have the tools, we can walk you through basic diagnostic testing to find the source of the excess current draw.

There are any number of causes for odd cruise control function ranging from mechanical (cable binding) to electronic. We could fill a book with testing procedures but I would want to know if you're comfortable with extensive testing before typing them up.

 

^ +1

I would definitely fix the turn signals and cruise control first and then re-assess where you are. If you register on AutoZone, their repair section will provide the electrical schematics for free. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, most of these things are pretty easy to get through, but super expensive for a pro to spend the time on. (A lot of shops won't want this business from you because the bill could end up being more than the car is worth, which you won't want to pay, and then that's just bad and wasted time for them.)

If you have a friend who can get into this stuff, you may enlist their help for the hands-on stuff. Sometimes friends can be better friends and more willing if there is a case of beer waiting for them when the job is done!

 

Thanks guys. I'm just looking at this, due to being busy for the last few. I don't have automobile diagnostic skills, but I will re-read, give some thought to it, and maybe have some more questions in a little while.

Best,

audioforce

 

Lock confirmation light was the bulb. Replaced it and it works.

Still blowing fuses and not tripping breaker. ?????????

I am an audio engineer, so its not like it don't know how to troubleshoot stuff, but I don't usually work on cars.

If its something that' doesn't require a lot of experience, I may be able to do it.

I was looking for a video on how to change the air intake tube / hose, but can't find one. Apparently there is a tear in the one on the car, and it makes the car run a little rough. Got the part, but I don't want to mess around with it until I'm sure I know what I am doing. : )


Best,

fastertransam

 

I suspect the breaker is actually tripping (assuming you didn't do something foolish like install a higher amperage breaker) but because automotive circuit breakers are self-resetting you might not notice.

Troubleshooting electrical issues on cars is no different than anywhere else. You have to know what and where to test (we can explain that for you) but the basic skills of measuring current, voltage and resistance are the same everywhere.

First, are you sure the turn signals are causing the fuse to blow? Does the fuse blow as soon as you turn on the ignition? Does it blow as soon as you use one of the turn signals? Which side? Or does it perhaps blow when putting the car in reverse? The same fuse feeds the backup lights and there have been known problems with the backup light switch shorting to ground.

 

Thanks. How can I tell what's causing the fuse to blow. The signals work for a little while, then no. I'll try to get some more fuses and I can maybe narrow it down a little.

fastertransam

 

Thanks. How can I tell what's causing the fuse to blow, or exactly when it blows? I know the signals work for a little while, then no. I'll try to get some more fuses and I can maybe narrow it down a little.

Later:

The cruise control will start working at very high speeds, with or without the breaker. Once you get it working, it will then work at lower speeds, too. Replacing the fuse makes the turn signals work. Using the turn signal does not immediately blow the fuse. Turning on the ignition does not immediately blow the fuse. But after a period of time, when I start the car and try the signals, they don't work and the fuse is apparently blown. So something may be blowing the fuse that does not require the car to be running.


Best,

fastertransam

 

Hi,

That one does not fit a Firebird. I have a 2001 Trans Am WS6.

A gentleman who posted earlier PMd me, saying that he has a couple used ones. But that requires getting a new key cut and so forth. It seems like the recommendation is to have the old one fixed. I guess I should let the mechanic know what's available and see how he wants to approach it.

Update. Its blowing the fuses really quickly now.


Best,

fastertransam

 

Putting the car in reverse does in fact immediately pop the fuse.

Now what?
: )

Best,

fastertransam

 

Car lost all power crossing street downtown last night. Then no start. Police had to come help move the car out of the road. Towed it to shop. Earlier in the evening I took it to auto zone and the battery tested bad, but was apparently still accepting charge from alternator. But putting the car in reverse definitely made the charge meter drop with breaker in, and popped the fuse immediately.

Any suggestions so the shop can start somewhere?


Thanks,

fastertransam

 

Car lost all power crossing street downtown last night. Then no start. Police had to come help move the car out of the road. Towed it to shop. Earlier in the evening I took it to auto zone and the battery tested bad, but was apparently still accepting charge from alternator. But putting the car in reverse definitely made the charge meter drop with breaker in, and popped the fuse immediately.

Any suggestions so the shop can start somewhere?


Thanks,

fastertransam

 

I was going to answer your earlier question about how to tell which circuit is causing the fuse to blow... it's easy, turn on the ignition, check if the fuse blows, then put it in reverse, check if the fuse blows, then turn on the turn signal, check if the fuse blows. But you seem to have found the answer yourself.

The most common cause of the fuse blowing in reverse is the backup switch (called the neutral safety switch in an automatic) shorting to ground. You could just install a new switch but it's always better to test first so you don't end up just throwing parts at a problem. You can assume that the wiring up to the backup switch is okay because otherwise the fuse would blow as soon as the ignition was turned on. So that leaves the switch itself or the wiring between the switch and the backup lights. Unplug the switch and test if the light green wire goes directly to ground (it should not). If that checks out then replace the switch. Otherwise start tracing the light green wire to the backup lights for a break in the insulation that is grounding out.

 

Thanks WhiteBird. I appreciate it. I passed the information along to the mechanic at the shop I had the car towed to. But wouldn't it probably be cheaper to just replace the [inexpensive] switch in the first instance rather than paying for the labor to trace the wiring?

Also, is it possible that the switch problem could have made the whole car shut down like it did last night? I mean it totally quit, no dash lights, not a sound when the ignition was turned, nothing. Then, after we pushed it out of the street, the lights came back on, but went back out when the key was turned. It started to crank a few times, but never stayed running more than a couple seconds. What do you think? If its the alternator, then its the third one in a week and a half.

Best,

fastertransam

 

Admittedly the switch is very inexpensive so replacing it without testing isn't the burden that it can be with other diagnostic situations. I was making a general statement about testing because I am constantly reading about members here who will give a long list of parts they've already replaced trying to solve a problem without any testing (or sometimes even any logical thinking) done first. In this case, the testing involved would be less than a minute with a multimeter - unplug the connector from the switch, touch one probe to the light green wire and the other to ground and see if there is continuity that shouldn't be there. If the switch wasn't under $10, I would still say test first.

The backup switch would not have caused your dead car problem because it isn't active unless the gear shift is in reverse. And even if you park in reverse (some schools recommend that), the worst it would do is blow the fuse again when you turn on the ignition. These cars have been known to eat alternators but that wouldn't cause a dead car situation. Until the engine is running, the alternator isn't involved in providing power - that's all on the battery. If you've been having a lot of trouble with alternators then I would check that your battery hasn't given up all life.

 

Well, at first it went completely cold. No sound when turning ignition, no dash lights at all,, nothing, not even emergency flashers, Then, after I pushed it mostly out of the road, I tried to jump it, and again, nothing. Then the police came and we pushed it into a parking lot and the lights came on. It would drank, but then immediately stop and go black again, then lights come on, and the same thing over and over. The police said, "I think your car may have an electrical problem". : ) I was like, uhmm yeah, maybe so.

So that's what its doing, Wont stay on. Any thoughts?


Best,

fastertransam

 

The first place to check is the battery and its connections. Most auto parts stores will load test your battery for free when you bring it to them. Loose or corroded battery terminal connections can cause the same symptoms.