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Old Nov 3, 2021 | 01:35 AM
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Default Car not cranking

So the car takes anywhere from 10 to as many as 35, 40 turns of the key before the starter even attempts to crank the car. Starts right up on the first crank, but does NOT want to crank to begin with. Put a brand new starter in yesterday, issue persists. Possible VATS issue? Thinking of buying a bypass, anyone have experience with these?

https://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-security-override-system-vats-1986-2002-33-278256-1.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&sci d=scplp33-158044-1&sc_intid=33-158044-1&gclsrc=aw.ds&gclid=Cj0KCQjww4OMBhCUARIsAILndv6me iakFYV3i1Rgx-HrNgTE_17OoGXj4I18VPIQTnn8_o_bWPOVViMaAgnPEALw_wcB
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Old Nov 3, 2021 | 01:43 AM
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Also- my ASR OFF light stays on since putting in the new starter... Odd.
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Old Nov 3, 2021 | 03:02 PM
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Is the SECURITY light in your instrument cluster on or flashing? If not, it is not a VATS issue and a bypass won't help.

If it is on steady then VATS is reading a resistance from your key which doesn't match the value programmed. This can be a simple matter of built-up grime on the key pellet or on the contacts inside the ignition cylinder. Use a pencil eraser followed by rubbing alcohol to clean the key pellet contacts (both sides). Use spray electronics cleaner and a cotton swab or pipe cleaner to clean the contacts inside the ignition cylinder. In a pinch, you could use rubbing alcohol on a swab to get inside the cylinder but electronics cleaner is much more effective.

If it is flashing then VATS can't see any resistor at all (open circuit). This can be caused by using a key with no pellet (obviously not your situation), worn contacts either on the key or inside the ignition cylinder, or a broken wire somewhere - usually at the ignition cylinder.

That VATS bypass kit is handy because it's plug-and-play but it isn't anything you couldn't do for a quarter of the price with just the correct resistors. Besides, you'd have to be lucky enough to have resistor number 2, 3, 7, 8, or 10... leaving two thirds of the possible values unavailable (there are 15 different resistance values used by VATS).

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Old Nov 7, 2021 | 08:52 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Is the SECURITY light in your instrument cluster on or flashing? If not, it is not a VATS issue and a bypass won't help.

If it is on steady then VATS is reading a resistance from your key which doesn't match the value programmed. This can be a simple matter of built-up grime on the key pellet or on the contacts inside the ignition cylinder. Use a pencil eraser followed by rubbing alcohol to clean the key pellet contacts (both sides). Use spray electronics cleaner and a cotton swab or pipe cleaner to clean the contacts inside the ignition cylinder. In a pinch, you could use rubbing alcohol on a swab to get inside the cylinder but electronics cleaner is much more effective.

If it is flashing then VATS can't see any resistor at all (open circuit). This can be caused by using a key with no pellet (obviously not your situation), worn contacts either on the key or inside the ignition cylinder, or a broken wire somewhere - usually at the ignition cylinder.

That VATS bypass kit is handy because it's plug-and-play but it isn't anything you couldn't do for a quarter of the price with just the correct resistors. Besides, you'd have to be lucky enough to have resistor number 2, 3, 7, 8, or 10... leaving two thirds of the possible values unavailable (there are 15 different resistance values used by VATS).
Gotcha. Good to know how the light should react- unfortunately the security light comes on with the rest of the lights in the dash, then immediately turns off as usual. Putting the key in and leaving it turned for a few minutes before trying to crank seems to be helping, but far from a fix...
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Old Nov 8, 2021 | 05:47 AM
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Try a new batteery or charge it. Seen many cars with 12 volts but not enough amps to crank it.
Can you turn the motor over by hand?
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