MM98

iTrader: (13)

The part # for the check valves is 12565503 & list for $31ea at the dealer... Call your local dealer, give them the part # & tell them you were quoted $21ea at another dealer... They normally will price match & that is the wholesale price for the valve.. Hope this helps.


Mike (GM dealer parts rep.)

anthony m

iTrader: (1)

Ha B Diddy do you understand how much it costs to run a service dept at a dealer?Do you have any idea what it costs to train techs every year?As all of you boys and girls know ,the cars that coming off the assembly line today have a lot more technology .I think the new c6 vette has like 15 -18 modules on board.This is the reason that dealers are allways gonna be more expensive.If the techs at dealers do not know how to fix cars who is gonna do it?Some guy at a Pep Boys?We have in our service dept about 80 lifts,20 computers set up for the internet plus to do any downloads.You get what you pay for guys and we all know this.

mc01ta

MM98, that was the most helpful thing all day! I really owe you one for that, thanks a bunch man

zamboxl

iTrader: (1)

thats federal law

mc01ta

MM88 u wouldn't have a part number for the air pump assembly that i the tech was talking about. the check valves runs two hoses to this air assembly if that helps on determining what the hell i'm talking about.

zamboxl

iTrader: (1)

thats what dealers are, i took my car to the dealer to have some electrical work done, and have the intake bolts tighten. Now when i got there the only thing that was different from what i had told them was that the fuel rail was not pluged in, and they gave me a bunch of crap about how i had told them something different, and that this was going to take much longer and much more money to do. What was the major difference that they where so upset about? the fuel rail not being pluged in, wich is done in 20 minutes if you super fat and laisy, if not it takes more like 60 seconds to do. So i took it to a local shop that specialises on high perf and engine rebuild for our cars. They where $10 dollars cheaper an hour than the dealler and did the job in a quater of the time than the dealer, so dealers are not all that, must of them around here are all too used to doing oil changes and easy warranty work so they wont even get close to doing some real work specially if it is not under warrenty

ps: by no means am i insinuating that they all the same, just the ones i deatl with so no flames pls.

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

i dont think the car has to go back to the dealer fpor extended warrantry repair, unless its GM extended warranty

MM98

iTrader: (13)

Sure do, part#12568241 & it lists for around $200.

Mike.

highgear

The last time I bought Air Check Valves; they were about $20 each at PepBoys. Couldn't be much more at the Dealer.
So, buy a couple. It is a 20 min fix.

luvmeZ28

iTrader: (3)

i take no insult man. i know that the bonehead jerk stuff swings both ways. there are idiot consumers, and dealers. thats just the way its goes. and as far as finding a good dealership, ive given up. if anything needs to be done to my car that i cant do, ive got a small local performance shop i can deal with, or i will just drive up to TSP. ALL the dealerships in this town really are scheisters, sad but true.

psykoTA

iTrader: (4)

Hey cool, finally saw someone helpin' the dude, I was going to chime in and tell him, You beat me to it!! Does he need the air pump assembly as well? Do the check valves take out the air pump or vice versa? I have seen the Blazer air pumps get full of water from condensation as they are at the bottom of the air system, Do fbodies have these type of air pump failures?

firechicken_98

iTrader: (8)

Just buy the parts and do it yourself. It's really not that hard. I replaced one of mine a while back. That price the dealer quoted is very high. As far as the pump, I don't think that would be hard either. It's not very hard to get to and like it was posted before, people take that stuff off all the time.

longdaddy

only CATs and PCM are covered up to 80k miles/8 years according to

http://www.epa.gov/otaq/consumer/warr95fs.txt

INMY01TA

iTrader: (1)

The dealer is ripping you off! Anthony M is a tool. Check valves are like $40 at the dealership. Someone said the pump is $200? Hmm, $620 for labor? I could change these things in an hour.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

we talked about this kinda stuff in my philosophy class the other day. my professor said he had a brother who worked on cars for a living and his boss said to him one day,

"son, you have to learn to smile in their face, then stab 'em in the back"

pretty sad that it does apply alot of shops. theres a shop down the street from my house that i used to bring alot of my problems to, knew the guys from dirt track racing. good honest guys and they always did great work. i like to fix my own stuff now though. i would only bring my blazer in when i needed big stuff fixed, like a new flywheel lol.

ss rally red

iTrader: (8)

Damn get someone with edit to delete any/all AIR related codes(should be 50 bucks or less) and pull all that crap out of your engine bay and make it look that much better. Your car will will love you for it.

ss rally red

iTrader: (8)

Also with OBDII cars emissions should be no problem if you live in a testing state.

mc01ta

Everyone, thank you so much for all your help and replies. I know I freaked out at first mainly because of the cost i was quoted and the fact that i need my car to get to and from for 2 jobs. I grabbed my car from my local pontiac dealer and took it to my mechanic. Bought the parts, $200 air assembly and $60 for the two check valves. I'm too busy to do the work myself so I decided to take it to someone i trust. I was going to just have it all removed but emissions is pretty big in VA i'm pretty sure so I didn't want to mess with it. What was funny is soon as my ses light went and stayed on i got horrific gas mileage and the car almost wanted to stall, not typical i thought for this type of problem. I guess the car was running in a limp or safe mode because the car was about to die. The good thing about this is it forced me to take my car to my mechanic and give him a list of stuff to do that i have not had time for like new trans mount, spark plugs, o2 sensor, readjust my parking brake and some exhaust work they did for me in the past needed to be touched up. So my car should be like new again hopefully. Again thank you and I would like to hear response on why my car was driving like it did when the ses light came on, kinda strange.

SSoofast

I had my check valves go bad(clogged) on the AIR system-threw codes P1415 and P1416 i think.I bought new check valves for the AIR system for 35$ each ,easy to install they air black valves on the AIR tubes that connect to the exhaust manifolds,gotem at the dealer.Fixed my situation.Check if AIR pump comes on when first started in the morning,if so this should fix it.If pump does not come on i don't know what it cost.

hourang

iTrader: (6)

$200 for the AIR pump?? you mean that thing i have sittin in my garage is worth $200??? i was about to throw it away! so anyone want to buy it dirt cheap? lol. i think you waised your money buying that, i woulda just removed the AIR, it doesnt affect performance at all and if you get the code removed there will be no SES and depending on the test it should pass emissions no problem, the AIR system is only on startup. im guessin the reason you had problems is because of an exhaust or vaccuum leak from the AIR.