Door lock/unlock problem
Door lock/unlock problem Ok ive done a search for this but couldnt bring much of anything up. The problem I have is that the doors will not lock or unlock with the remote or with the switch inside the car. It is a 94 T/A. And the interior lights do come on when I open the door and I havnt found any blown fuses. If I remember correctly the door bell does not ring either. Can anyone help me out with this problem. Thanks
Billy
Billy
Oh yea by the way the turn signals do not work. The turn signal arm is broken inside the column but the wipers work and I can bearly make it click to turn them on. But they do not work.
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Troubleshooting power door locks 1) Recheck your fuses, I know you checked them, but better to recheck before you pull off the door skins. The fuse is the interior - courtesy fuse, bottom furthest right on the driver side fuse panel.
2) If is the fuse and you try to actuate it you will hear a warning chime, better heard from the passenger side.
3) The switches are not wired independently in the traditional sense, as are the windows, so the next part is a little taxing.... remove handle bezel and access the switch, if you have a volt meter check to see if you are getting current to the power and remote lead, there are three leads you need to be concerned about... on the passenger side they are black, red and orange, on the driver side similar with the addition of leads that you don't need to be concerned about for now. If you are getting 9 to 13 volts (most likely 10 if the car isn't running) then you know you are getting power.
4) Using a jumper wire, any wire to close the circuit, contact the power and remote lead after removing the actual switch, this will determine if the switch is faulty.
5) If it still doesn't work, you then need to follow the wiring from the switch all the way to the relay to determine whether or not there is a short or loose ground.
6) If that doesn't show any error you need to check the relay, unless you have a proper test meter you will just need to replace it.
7) If that doesn't show any error you then need to follow the wiring to the solenoid at the door checking for shorts, and of course power the solenoid with a test meter. I am not sure what the relay voltage is, but 12 volts is always safe, if the solenoid works then go back and check your fuses again because there is no more...
Good luck.
2) If is the fuse and you try to actuate it you will hear a warning chime, better heard from the passenger side.
3) The switches are not wired independently in the traditional sense, as are the windows, so the next part is a little taxing.... remove handle bezel and access the switch, if you have a volt meter check to see if you are getting current to the power and remote lead, there are three leads you need to be concerned about... on the passenger side they are black, red and orange, on the driver side similar with the addition of leads that you don't need to be concerned about for now. If you are getting 9 to 13 volts (most likely 10 if the car isn't running) then you know you are getting power.
4) Using a jumper wire, any wire to close the circuit, contact the power and remote lead after removing the actual switch, this will determine if the switch is faulty.
5) If it still doesn't work, you then need to follow the wiring from the switch all the way to the relay to determine whether or not there is a short or loose ground.
6) If that doesn't show any error you need to check the relay, unless you have a proper test meter you will just need to replace it.
7) If that doesn't show any error you then need to follow the wiring to the solenoid at the door checking for shorts, and of course power the solenoid with a test meter. I am not sure what the relay voltage is, but 12 volts is always safe, if the solenoid works then go back and check your fuses again because there is no more...
Good luck.
Man I really appreciate that BlackBeard! I just got that cause I do not have internet access at the house yet, so I have to check it at work during the week. But this is what happened. I had to fix the window tract because some idiot drilled out the door rivets instead of the window motor rivets. So I had to fix all that crap witch was fallen down into the door. But once I got that fixed and working I acidentally hit the door locks and they worked. The only thing I can think of is that I pluged in the window motor. Does the switch and solinoid get its power through the window motor wire? I didnt think it did but thats all that I did. I didnt see any visible problems with the wires either. Thanks again
Billy
Billy
