Door lock/unlock problem
Billy
2) If is the fuse and you try to actuate it you will hear a warning chime, better heard from the passenger side.
3) The switches are not wired independently in the traditional sense, as are the windows, so the next part is a little taxing.... remove handle bezel and access the switch, if you have a volt meter check to see if you are getting current to the power and remote lead, there are three leads you need to be concerned about... on the passenger side they are black, red and orange, on the driver side similar with the addition of leads that you don't need to be concerned about for now. If you are getting 9 to 13 volts (most likely 10 if the car isn't running) then you know you are getting power.
4) Using a jumper wire, any wire to close the circuit, contact the power and remote lead after removing the actual switch, this will determine if the switch is faulty.
5) If it still doesn't work, you then need to follow the wiring from the switch all the way to the relay to determine whether or not there is a short or loose ground.
6) If that doesn't show any error you need to check the relay, unless you have a proper test meter you will just need to replace it.
7) If that doesn't show any error you then need to follow the wiring to the solenoid at the door checking for shorts, and of course power the solenoid with a test meter. I am not sure what the relay voltage is, but 12 volts is always safe, if the solenoid works then go back and check your fuses again because there is no more...
Good luck.
Billy

