GC 0w30
Tech Resident
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,117
Likes: 3
From: Philly
Originally Posted by Bandit LS1
I agree, I've run both GC and Mobil 1 0-40.....both are pretty equal to one another and I don't have a consumption problem with either.....unlike Mobil 1 5-30 which my car went through faster then frat boys through a case of natty light.
well i went to the autozone that claimed they had 15 bottles of gc 0w30. when i got there they only had 4!!! i asked the guy if they had any in back and he said no. the dumbass told me to just grab two bottle of the non german made ****. he said it's the same thing and argued with me for like 5 minutes. he asked me "Do you really think this is made somewhere else other than the other castrol syntec" he said they just changed the bottle so people would know it was made in germany and it's a european formula. (even though one bottle says made in USA and the other says made in Germany he said they were made in the same place) last time i checked US and Germany are thousands of miles apart and have an ocean in between them but maybe something changed while i was sleeping last night.
j/w tho how much of a difference is there b/w the german stuff and the american made stuff. b/c they did both have the same barcode/sku #
j/w tho how much of a difference is there b/w the german stuff and the american made stuff. b/c they did both have the same barcode/sku #
Tech Resident
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,117
Likes: 3
From: Philly
A LOT!
the american stuff isn't fully synethetic, even though they claim it is! the american oil uses a normal crude base, just super-refined to the point where they can legally label it fully synthetic.
this deception is ILLEGAL in germany. the MADE IN GERMANY castrol syntec as a fully synthetic formula from the base oil up. the base oil is extremely exotic, far superior than mobil 1 for example. it's a whole different animal. the MADE IN AMERICA and MADE IN GERMANY castrol syntecs are similar in name only. the oil used is vastly different. DO NOT BUY AMERICAN MADE CASTROL SYNTEC!
the american stuff isn't fully synethetic, even though they claim it is! the american oil uses a normal crude base, just super-refined to the point where they can legally label it fully synthetic.
this deception is ILLEGAL in germany. the MADE IN GERMANY castrol syntec as a fully synthetic formula from the base oil up. the base oil is extremely exotic, far superior than mobil 1 for example. it's a whole different animal. the MADE IN AMERICA and MADE IN GERMANY castrol syntecs are similar in name only. the oil used is vastly different. DO NOT BUY AMERICAN MADE CASTROL SYNTEC!
Tech Resident
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,117
Likes: 3
From: Philly
Originally Posted by 02SS#406
If you don't use the European formula of the Sytec, you might as well just use the Mobil 1...The GC is a totally different formulation than the regular Syntec.
1.) normal GC 0W-30 made in america
2.) GC 0W-30 european formula made in america
3.) normal GC 0W-30 made in germany
4.) GC 0W-30 european formula made in germany
it doesn't matter if it's "european formula" or standard GC 0W-30, just make sure it's made in germany. we're after the exotic base oil here, and the "made in germany" varities have it whereas the american varieties don't.
i figured there was a pretty big difference since everyone says the german but never talks about just castrol. is there any oil analysis verification or a website that talks about the two
autozone just had syntec on sale, so i picked up 15 bottles of GC 0w-30. it was something like 5 quarts and a fram filter for $26.99. pretty much you are saving just a tiny bit more than the cost of the filter, but since i dont use fram filters, i just sold them to someone that does for $3 each.
my first oil change with GC, i burned about the same as i had with dino oil, but with each oil change i burn less and less. i'm on my 3rd GC change now, and i'm still full with almost 4k on it.
my first oil change with GC, i burned about the same as i had with dino oil, but with each oil change i burn less and less. i'm on my 3rd GC change now, and i'm still full with almost 4k on it.
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
not true. the "european formula" doesn't matter. all that matters is you make sure it says "made in germany". the GC 0W-30 comes in 4 varieties:
1.) normal GC 0W-30 made in america
2.) GC 0W-30 european formula made in america
3.) normal GC 0W-30 made in germany
4.) GC 0W-30 european formula made in germany
it doesn't matter if it's "european formula" or standard GC 0W-30, just make sure it's made in germany. we're after the exotic base oil here, and the "made in germany" varities have it whereas the american varieties don't.
1.) normal GC 0W-30 made in america
2.) GC 0W-30 european formula made in america
3.) normal GC 0W-30 made in germany
4.) GC 0W-30 european formula made in germany
it doesn't matter if it's "european formula" or standard GC 0W-30, just make sure it's made in germany. we're after the exotic base oil here, and the "made in germany" varities have it whereas the american varieties don't.
Tech Resident
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,117
Likes: 3
From: Philly
Originally Posted by slayer_taunu
autozone just had syntec on sale, so i picked up 15 bottles of GC 0w-30. it was something like 5 quarts and a fram filter for $26.99. pretty much you are saving just a tiny bit more than the cost of the filter, but since i dont use fram filters, i just sold them to someone that does for $3 each.
my first oil change with GC, i burned about the same as i had with dino oil, but with each oil change i burn less and less. i'm on my 3rd GC change now, and i'm still full with almost 4k on it.
my first oil change with GC, i burned about the same as i had with dino oil, but with each oil change i burn less and less. i'm on my 3rd GC change now, and i'm still full with almost 4k on it.
I just switched to Castrol 0w30 from Germany. Oil temps remain the same, but I lost 2-3 (35 psi) psi of oil pressure at idle over Mobil 1 0w40 (38 psi). This is in my CTS-V with 45,000 miles. Same filter, same driving, and same weather. Just thought I would post my experience.
However, I cannot say which is the better oil for protection or power, since I don't have a way to measure either. I just decided to try it based upon the recommendations here.
Mickey
However, I cannot say which is the better oil for protection or power, since I don't have a way to measure either. I just decided to try it based upon the recommendations here.
Mickey
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,648
Likes: 2,574
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Originally Posted by JakeY2KZ
I ran 0w40 M1 once and my car sucked it down like no other. Piston slap got worse and it was filling my catch can a lot. I will never use 0w40 again and I suggest that no one else does. If you have to run M1 stay with the 5w30 or regular 10w30.
Frankly, I can't understand for the life of me how it is that your probelms worsened with the 0W40. After putting it in my LS1 and going for a drive, I instantly noticed higher oil pressure (about 3-5psi more) under all conditions, and the motor was noticeably quieter. Standard LS1 valvetrain noise was cut in half or more.
I've never had any sort of piston slap with any oil, including this 0W40 M1 stuff.
This car has never burned any oil using either the M1 5W30 or the M1 10W30. And I seriouly doubt that it'll burn anything on the 0W40; it's a thicker oil than the 5/10W30s are, so I just can't understand how it's buring more in your motor. Maybe your driving habits were different during the time you ran that batch of 0W40?
Either way, I now plan to continue using the M1 0W40 for as long as I can find it. The motor seems much smoother and quieter than before. I'd only go back to the 10W30 if I can't find the 0W40 for some reason, but I doubt that'll happen.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 0
From: MD
Originally Posted by RPM WS6
I just switched to M1 0W40 yesterday. I have been a long time user of M1 10W30 but thought I'd try something different just for the hell of it. GC is not an option for me, I don't have it locally and I'm not interested in ordering oil online.
Frankly, I can't understand for the life of me how it is that your probelms worsened with the 0W40. After putting it in my LS1 and going for a drive, I instantly noticed higher oil pressure (about 3-5psi more) under all conditions, and the motor was noticeably quieter. Standard LS1 valvetrain noise was cut in half or more.
I've never had any sort of piston slap with any oil, including this 0W40 M1 stuff.
This car has never burned any oil using either the M1 5W30 or the M1 10W30. And I seriouly doubt that it'll burn anything on the 0W40; it's a thicker oil than the 5/10W30s are, so I just can't understand how it's buring more in your motor. Maybe your driving habits were different during the time you ran that batch of 0W40?
Either way, I now plan to continue using the M1 0W40 for as long as I can find it. The motor seems much smoother and quieter than before. I'd only go back to the 10W30 if I can't find the 0W40 for some reason, but I doubt that'll happen.
Frankly, I can't understand for the life of me how it is that your probelms worsened with the 0W40. After putting it in my LS1 and going for a drive, I instantly noticed higher oil pressure (about 3-5psi more) under all conditions, and the motor was noticeably quieter. Standard LS1 valvetrain noise was cut in half or more.
I've never had any sort of piston slap with any oil, including this 0W40 M1 stuff.
This car has never burned any oil using either the M1 5W30 or the M1 10W30. And I seriouly doubt that it'll burn anything on the 0W40; it's a thicker oil than the 5/10W30s are, so I just can't understand how it's buring more in your motor. Maybe your driving habits were different during the time you ran that batch of 0W40?
Either way, I now plan to continue using the M1 0W40 for as long as I can find it. The motor seems much smoother and quieter than before. I'd only go back to the 10W30 if I can't find the 0W40 for some reason, but I doubt that'll happen.
If they dont have any when I go back it its Mobil 1 0w-40 for me for now. 