im going to be buying some of this tomorrow from my local dealer. should i get one or two cans? my engine is fairly high mileage 67k. will one can be enough? also is this a popular item? do you think theyll probably have it in stock? also, when i spray it into the motor how often should i stop to prevent hydrolock?

<small>[ August 12, 2002, 01:35 AM: Message edited by: hondakiller ]</small>

 

1 can will be enough. And yes, most GM dealerships have it sitting behind the parts counter.

Get the spray can, it's a little easier to administer. Just pull the lid and maf out of the way, but still leave everything plugged in so the car will hold a normal idle. With the TB exposed, slowly spray the cleaner on the bottom lip of the TB and just let the car sip it up while idling. Spray until the can is gone, then put everything back in place. Most recommend you let the car sit for about 4-6 hrs so the cleaner can soak. After the car sits, take it out for some "spirited" driving. Your car will smoke like a freight train at first, but that is fine. The more smoke the better. Good luck

Josh

 

I used the GM spray type like Damian said last year when I was getting some KR, sprayed in while idling and shut 'er down for 15 minutes and then went for a drive and blew it out. ATAP'd the next day and the KR was gone. Sure does smoke when you first take off!

 

Just a note, make sure you unplug the MAF. If you leave it plugged in, the car will NOT idle. I tried it at least 10 times before I unplugged the MAF and restarted it. It will idle rough as hell but it will idle. When the MAF is unplugged it defaults to SD mode. Not the greatest but it works.

Dope

 

Don't forget, GET AN OIL CHANGE afterwards.

 

aftermarket sea-foam engine cleaner same thing just easier & less exspensive. make a vacuum hose to fit into your pcv just as long as the end of the special adapt-a-hose is no larger than 1/4 inch hose. run engine hose in can [will take some reving to keep running ] let engine stall with last amount in can. pcv & crankcase vents really put alot of build-up in motors that's the best dyi way of preventing it.

 

Good luck with it - as I did a "engine decarbonization on my 99 C5 and MAN THAT SHAT STANKS!!! <img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" />

 

I assume this stuff will not harm cats or O2 sensors. Will it remove all of the oil in my intake manifold as well as remove the carbon build up?? How much does the stuff cost?

 

Costed me 10 smack-a-roos ($10) at Capital Chevrolet. It's worth it. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

Don't use the spray ,use the liquid. Connect a 2' X 3/8" hose with a small funnel to the PCV intake on the TB. Pour 3/4 of the can in the funnel relatively fast giving the engine some throttle as you do it to keep it from stalling. Pour the last 1/4 can in very fast to stall the engine. Let it sit over night, crank it up and run it the next day. Be sure to change the oil. The pros do not use the spray.

 

How come we should not use the spray?

I want to do this on my 99 Tahoe, it's got...

107K on it. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I think it pings on part throttle.

 

well i got a can of the liquid because the two dealers i went to said they didnt carry the spray stuff anymore. i dont have to worry about hydrolock do i? as long as i follow the directions?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by hondakiller:
<strong>well i got a can of the liquid because the two dealers i went to said they didnt carry the spray stuff anymore. i dont have to worry about hydrolock do i? as long as i follow the directions?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No - you cant hydrolock the engine cause you wont have any plugs in the block - thus when you turn it over that stuff will squirt for miles! HAHA! Have fun...

 

I just used a can of the liquid on a friends 3800 V6. It says to pour 2/3 of the can in while keeping the idle at around 1100-1200 to keep from stalling. Pour the last 1/3 in fast enough to stall the engine. Let it soak for 20 minutes and then run it until is stops smoking. Change the oil afterwards.

Shane

 

Here is the Decarb procedure from the GM house..

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> I felt it necessary to fill you all in on how to de-carbon your engines. Here is the reason. For most all situations, knock on a stock c5 will be due to carbon buildup, plain and simple. While there is a lot of speculation, fact is that out of 51 different c5 that I have performed this procedure, NONE have returned. There will always be the occasional one that this may NOT apply to, but for the most part, it should work. Also, just a side note, if your c5 is modified, even with just a MAF, this may not work, due to other issues, so do not ASSUME that this is a fix all.
Okay, first thing, go down to your GM dealer and purchase 2 cans of liquid top engine cleaner #1050002. That’s the part number. And get oil and filter, as you will have to change the oil after this procedure.
Second, let the car sit until it gets cold before you start this procedure.
Now, are you ready???? First, remove all spark plugs.
Next, evenly divide the 2 cans to feed 8 cylinders.
Remember that this will get messy, so have plenty of rags around, and put something under your car, and not all the cylinders will take all the chemical.
Next, add the cleaner to each cylinder, some may pour out, and some may take all of it. I leave rags under each plughole.
Then, pop a cold one because the cleaner must sit at least 6 hours, I like to see 12, but at least 6 are the minimum.
The next morning or whatever put a bunch of rags over all the plugholes, as you must crank over the engine to expel the entire cleaner. It’s going to leave a mess, so be warned. Crank over then engine for about 15 seconds, that’s all it takes. Clean up all the residual off the manifolds, with brake cleaner or something. Install the plugs.
Roll the vehicle outside, cause MAN is this going to smoke, and stink. Start it up, it will run rough for a while, this is common, and it will smoke too. Allow to idle for 20 mins. Then shut the engine down, and change the oil and filter.
The cleaner dilutes the oil so we don’t want to drive the car until after all has been consumed in the chamber, and the oil is warm.
Ok, now for the test drive, go to a highway, and drive a highway speeds for about 20 mins, to expel the cleaner from the exhaust. The car WILL smoke for some of the test drive, this is NORMAL. But by the time that you get back, it should be pretty much gone.
Ok, that’s it. Just remember, this is informational, nothing more. You may get some oxygen codes or some misfire until the cleaner is burned off, this is NORMAL. Just reset the codes, and you will be fine.
I have had a lot of success with this, as have some of the members that I have emailed this process to, but you must follow it exactly, thanks.
Best to all, and I remain, c4c5 specialist
------------------
c4c5mechanic, GM certified in all areas. ASE master certification w/L1. Club Corvette of CT member.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">

 

How about that! That's how one of the mechanics at my dealer said they administered the liquid top engine cleaner. Bet that makes one hella mess... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

I just wonder what the dif is between the spray and the liquid. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

 

We also readily stock both the liquid and aerosol types of the GM Top End Cleaner! Click here to go directly to the product!