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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 07:36 PM
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Default steering leak

I've got a slow leak of steering fluid. The axle bellows on both sides look like something's leaked, the left side worse, but it's never been enough to drip on the floor. So this probably means there's a seal in there that's bad right? What should expect when I take it in? It's only got 24500 miles on it (I'm the original owner). Out of warrantly obviously but still it's GM's fault not normal wear.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 09:08 PM
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Replace rack when the leak gets worse or you have too much play in the steering system.

I can't see why GM would replace it out of the kindness. I put my first rack on at 40k and then again (warranty) at 50k due to a crappy rebuild. Well guess what. Looks like I'll be needing another one soon (95k) due to leaks like yours and a loosening inner tie rod.

Hard driving on crappy roads with fat tires, worn shocks and/or warped front rotors will kill these things fast. Of course not all or any of these conditions may apply to you.
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 11:12 AM
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If it is leaking at the rack (those bellows cover the inner tie rods) then just get a new rack. The rack needs a rebuild, and new inner tie rods, which if you price out, you will find pretty much cost more than an entire rack in the first place. 8 bolts and it is out. Nothing too fancy.
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 01:32 PM
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Is there a write-up anywhere on replacing the rack? Or know a good place to get a new (rebuilt?) one?

Re warped rotors: yes pretty sure I have those too (vibration on braking at high speed), guess that probably contributed.
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 01:54 PM
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cheap autozone duralast rotors and pfc performance friction front pads (lifetime warranty) work very well and are easy to do. Make sure you clean & grease the slider pins.

I used a A1 Cardone reman. rack, but be careful. Although they have lifetime warranties you should check for tight and smooth operation of all the moving parts before you install. Also make sure you get the right part number as there are multiple racks for each model and year.

The toughest part is getting one of the two bolts that hold the rack to the frame k-member. It will hit the oil pan. I ended up cutting it off or you have to take apart a motor mount and jack the engine up. Not easy to do and not easy to cut without hitting something else. You must use a sae grade-8 or metric 10 bolt for proper strength and install it inverted, so next time it will come right off.

A quick toe adjustment using two straight edges and a tape measure to align and center the steering and 7 days later you're done....at least for my first time. I got the wrong part and it took days to find the right bolt...errrrr.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by patSS/00
Is there a write-up anywhere on replacing the rack? Or know a good place to get a new (rebuilt?) one?

Re warped rotors: yes pretty sure I have those too (vibration on braking at high speed), guess that probably contributed.

Try this:

http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums...l&titlesonly=0
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