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Help....car won't start....or even crank
Help....car won't start....or even crank I've been fighting front turn signal problems and I believe this may be the cause of this problem. As many of you know the front turn signals in some of our cars tend to get water in them and cause the bulbs to burnout and corrode the sockets. Less than a week ago the driver blinker signal on my instrument cluster started staying on all the time. Probably due to a bad or malfunctioning bulb, at the time neither front blinker was working. Two days ago I pulled both bulbs from the front blinkers to check them and the sockets. The driver bulb was fine and the socket had the usual corrosion due to the water leakage. The passenger bulb was corroded as well as the socket. I cleaned both sockets as best I could and put the driver bulb back in and replaced the passenger bulb. The parking lights then worked as well as the both blinkers, but when I turned the passenger blinker on it caused all lights(fog lights, tail lights, instrument panel) to blink as well. And now the passenger blinker signal on my instrument panel was staying on all the time. Also, the passenger's driving light did not come on, but the driver's did.
Now this morning the car started but the instrument panel soon went out completely(lights and functionality). So I pulled it back in the garage, but now it won't even crank. The interior light and radio come on but the instrument panel does not move. I have checked the fuses in the dash and under the hood and all are good.
I definitely am going to replace both sockets in the front blinker assemblies. I intended to do this by this weekend but it didn't get her fast enough. Could these corroded sockets have caused something else to malfunction or fail.
Thanks for any and all help!!!
I forgot to mention that the battery and alternator were both replaced less than 6 months ago.
Now this morning the car started but the instrument panel soon went out completely(lights and functionality). So I pulled it back in the garage, but now it won't even crank. The interior light and radio come on but the instrument panel does not move. I have checked the fuses in the dash and under the hood and all are good.
I definitely am going to replace both sockets in the front blinker assemblies. I intended to do this by this weekend but it didn't get her fast enough. Could these corroded sockets have caused something else to malfunction or fail.
Thanks for any and all help!!!
I forgot to mention that the battery and alternator were both replaced less than 6 months ago.
Last edited by 99WS6TA; Nov 13, 2007 at 11:21 AM.
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Tampa, FL
Check and make sure that both the starter and ignition relays are working. They are the gray cubed looking things in the fuse box in the engine bay. My wifes LS1 did the same thing. It wouldn't fire or it wouldn't turn over. turns out they were bad relays. Hope this helps.
-Mark
-Mark
I just checked the lights and instrument panel again. I was wrong about the instrument panel lights, they do work, but the panel still doesn't function. The wipers and fuel pump work too so I feel the battery is fine. Neither of the running lights are working, only the passenger parking light works, and again both blinkers are working but the passenger is causing all lights except the driver blinker to flash. I'm thinking the passenger blinker socket may be corroded bad enough to have caused a short, which is making the other lights flash, and possibly caused the starting problem.
I did swap the starter and ignition relays around with the fan relays, since they are the same, but the car will still not crank.
Something strange I did notice, is that when I have the passenger blinker on, and all the lights are flashing, I can hear a ticking along with the flash coming from the fuse block under the hood that has the fan relays in it.
I did swap the starter and ignition relays around with the fan relays, since they are the same, but the car will still not crank.
Something strange I did notice, is that when I have the passenger blinker on, and all the lights are flashing, I can hear a ticking along with the flash coming from the fuse block under the hood that has the fan relays in it.
My car is running again and that is exactly what it was Luder.
The reason the car would not start was due to a faulty fuse in the fuse panel mounted in the dash, 10A Gauges fuse. Evidently this fuse also runs the ignition, starter solenoid, etc. The fuse wire was barely broken and it did not even look bad at first glance, I had to rotate it to notice the split.
Prior to going through the fuses again, I did replace the front DRL/parking/blinker sockets. I did have to get them from Auto Zone(PN 85881) as many people on hear have mentioned. I tried Advance since it is closer to my house, but they did not have them and could not even order them. They were very easy to replace from the bottom of the car via the access panel. The only minor problem was the tight space, in which I had to work from, below the car. The wires on the new pigtail are all black but both of the sockets are labeled A, B, and G so there's no way to confuse the wires.
Total cost: 2 sockets @ $8 + 1 pk 10A fuses @ $2 = $20/a few hours labor/1 day or work missed.......not too bad I don't guess!
The reason the car would not start was due to a faulty fuse in the fuse panel mounted in the dash, 10A Gauges fuse. Evidently this fuse also runs the ignition, starter solenoid, etc. The fuse wire was barely broken and it did not even look bad at first glance, I had to rotate it to notice the split.
Prior to going through the fuses again, I did replace the front DRL/parking/blinker sockets. I did have to get them from Auto Zone(PN 85881) as many people on hear have mentioned. I tried Advance since it is closer to my house, but they did not have them and could not even order them. They were very easy to replace from the bottom of the car via the access panel. The only minor problem was the tight space, in which I had to work from, below the car. The wires on the new pigtail are all black but both of the sockets are labeled A, B, and G so there's no way to confuse the wires.
Total cost: 2 sockets @ $8 + 1 pk 10A fuses @ $2 = $20/a few hours labor/1 day or work missed.......not too bad I don't guess!
Last edited by 99WS6TA; Nov 13, 2007 at 05:38 PM.
I had this exact problem today and thanks to this thread, I found the solution. I changed out a DRL/blinker pigtail today. When I was finished wiring it, the car would not start. I checked fuses/relays under the hood and they were all good. I came right to LS1 tech and performed a search and found this thread. It was the fuse in the dash as Luder stated. Thank you LS1 Tech, thread starter and Luder!
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: alabama
please help i am trying to find out the location of this instrument cluster fuse My car is running again and that is exactly what it was Luder.
The reason the car would not start was due to a faulty fuse in the fuse panel mounted in the dash, 10A Gauges fuse. Evidently this fuse also runs the ignition, starter solenoid, etc. The fuse wire was barely broken and it did not even look bad at first glance, I had to rotate it to notice the split.
Prior to going through the fuses again, I did replace the front DRL/parking/blinker sockets. I did have to get them from Auto Zone(PN 85881) as many people on hear have mentioned. I tried Advance since it is closer to my house, but they did not have them and could not even order them. They were very easy to replace from the bottom of the car via the access panel. The only minor problem was the tight space, in which I had to work from, below the car. The wires on the new pigtail are all black but both of the sockets are labeled A, B, and G so there's no way to confuse the wires.
Total cost: 2 sockets @ $8 + 1 pk 10A fuses @ $2 = $20/a few hours labor/1 day or work missed.......not too bad I don't guess!
The reason the car would not start was due to a faulty fuse in the fuse panel mounted in the dash, 10A Gauges fuse. Evidently this fuse also runs the ignition, starter solenoid, etc. The fuse wire was barely broken and it did not even look bad at first glance, I had to rotate it to notice the split.
Prior to going through the fuses again, I did replace the front DRL/parking/blinker sockets. I did have to get them from Auto Zone(PN 85881) as many people on hear have mentioned. I tried Advance since it is closer to my house, but they did not have them and could not even order them. They were very easy to replace from the bottom of the car via the access panel. The only minor problem was the tight space, in which I had to work from, below the car. The wires on the new pigtail are all black but both of the sockets are labeled A, B, and G so there's no way to confuse the wires.
Total cost: 2 sockets @ $8 + 1 pk 10A fuses @ $2 = $20/a few hours labor/1 day or work missed.......not too bad I don't guess!
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