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Headlight stuck up.

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Old May 2, 2008 | 03:55 PM
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Default Headlight stuck up.

A few months back, ... blah blah blah...

Replaced with brass gear, worked great for two months, and the epoxy seal gave way on the housing. Repaired with epoxy again and had great luck with the headlights working. Last week the car got lightly tapped (mild scrapes, didn't even crack fiberglass).

Now the driver's side headlight is intermittent. The light works fine, the connections and fuses are good. All of the grounds on the car appear to be intact and torqued down tightly.

As of yesterday, the driver's side will not move at all. I don't hear the motor struggling, or any grinding at all.

All of the rest of the electronics appear intact and functional.

Anyone got any ideas?

Motor housing is intact.
Lights are on.
Grounds and connections are firm.

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Old May 3, 2008 | 02:47 AM
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nothing?
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Old May 3, 2008 | 06:35 AM
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Got to unplug the motor and see if voltage is going to it.
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Old May 3, 2008 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Runriot
Got to unplug the motor and see if voltage is going to it.
The wiring runs into the housing, correct? So pop off the six wire clip and measure there?
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Old May 3, 2008 | 09:58 AM
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My driver side has gotten stuck/intermittent before. I've turned the manual crank **** slightly and it has worked for me. This is a light that I've replaced the gear on as well, not that it matters.
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Old May 3, 2008 | 10:12 AM
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Check the voltage on the connector and check the connectors in the housing. I have seen these come lose and even corrode. I placed a small amount of HiTemp grease on the middle pivot on my linkage and that seems eliminate binding.
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Old May 3, 2008 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by candela
My driver side has gotten stuck/intermittent before. I've turned the manual crank **** slightly and it has worked for me. This is a light that I've replaced the gear on as well, not that it matters.
.

I noticed pulling into work today that the light from the drivers side is slightly higher than the passengers. It is over-extending slightly. I'm going to try and bend the stop tabs back into place.
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Old May 3, 2008 | 04:25 PM
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Default don't brake it !!!!!!!!!

https://ls1tech.com/forums/florida-members/911619-maybe-locals-know.html
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Old May 5, 2008 | 07:57 PM
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you might want to check to see if whenever you got bumped if the arm got pushed behind the bump stop. i replaced my passenger side motor a few weeks back and i tested the motor prior to it going on and it worked fine. when i put everything back together i had no noise, no movement or no grinding of the gear. when i tried to manually adjust it, it would feel as if i was forcing it to move and bind up. i then noticed that the arm was on the wrong side of the bump stop in the down position. check that and make sure that is not the problem.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dan00k
you might want to check to see if whenever you got bumped if the arm got pushed behind the bump stop. i replaced my passenger side motor a few weeks back and i tested the motor prior to it going on and it worked fine. when i put everything back together i had no noise, no movement or no grinding of the gear. when i tried to manually adjust it, it would feel as if i was forcing it to move and bind up. i then noticed that the arm was on the wrong side of the bump stop in the down position. check that and make sure that is not the problem.
I had it working for a bit. I had the bolt and the nut on the outside of the housing reversed. I'm going to play with it more after while.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 11:23 PM
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Ugh. It's not binding, it just opens up and won't close down. I'm wondering if there's some slack in the system. I'm about to try 180 degree turning the brass gear =(
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