Vibration
OK. I ran the car on stands and did see a wable in the wheel/tire on the pass side. I removed the wheel, bolted down the rotor and ran it again. There is a wable in the rotor. So now I am not sure if it is the rotor or the axle. Does that mean I may have found it though? No idea if this could cause the fibration I am having. I have new rotors and will put them on and see what that looks like. If it continues, then I obviously have a bent axle.
sounds like a bent axel.
On The Tree
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From: Rosenberg,TX
You could have a bent axle though. The flange of the axle could be bent and thats usually not caused by anything but a collision with something like sliding up against a curb or being hit by another vehicle.
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From: NW Chicago Subs
If that rear end uses a crush sleeve on the pinion, you shouldn't have tightened that nut. Tightening that nut crushes the sleeve more and will possibly reduce the clearance and cause problems.
You could have a bent axle though. The flange of the axle could be bent and thats usually not caused by anything but a collision with something like sliding up against a curb or being hit by another vehicle.
You could have a bent axle though. The flange of the axle could be bent and thats usually not caused by anything but a collision with something like sliding up against a curb or being hit by another vehicle.
That is what I thought, but I don't recall ever hitting anything. I hit a curb once with the stock rear in it and it bent the axle. But it also broke the wheel. If that is what it took to barely bend a 10 bolt stock axle, then what would it take to bend a 31 spline Moser axle? The same rotors are still on the car. Does anyone think that maybe the rotor is bent and not sitting flush with the axle face? I have new rotors and will see what they do. Doubtfull but here is to wishfull thinking
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If you dont know if its your rotor and axle, take the rotors off and run it up to speed. If it still vibrates take your axles out and run it up to speed. Eliminate things this way.
one thing to check also is the side to side measurement of the rear axle. on my lt1 car the rear sagged a bit and the rear was too far over to the drivers side. i put in an adj panhard and fixed 90% of the vibration. if the car is sagging in the rear or has been lowered it could be off center.
one thing to check also is the side to side measurement of the rear axle. on my lt1 car the rear sagged a bit and the rear was too far over to the drivers side. i put in an adj panhard and fixed 90% of the vibration. if the car is sagging in the rear or has been lowered it could be off center.
I suggested that to him already and he said that he was set...
Is the driveshaft the correct length? It's likely with the new 9" that you need a longer driveshaft. That or you could move the rear end forward by getting some adjustable LCA's and making them shorter than stock... That's what I did anyway
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From: NW Chicago Subs
I played that game already. I went a got another shaft. With a 28" tire, you need the rear set back some. Shaft is long enough now and still have the problem.
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From: NW Chicago Subs
It is def. drive train. Shaft is new and ballanced. Not it. Rear is apart.
We took a mic to the axle face on the car. It turns out of round on the car, but not off. I took the rear apart and there is spline scorings on the pass side differential. We are going to mic the diff and see if it is turning out of round.
We took a mic to the axle face on the car. It turns out of round on the car, but not off. I took the rear apart and there is spline scorings on the pass side differential. We are going to mic the diff and see if it is turning out of round.
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From: NW Chicago Subs
Update: The internals of the locker are ok. But it apears to have spun the bearings on the bearing bosses causing the bearings not to be press fit. I am pretty damn sure this is the core of the problem. We are going to try and fix this.
good job hunting your problem down. Keep us posted