T/A hasn't been started in 2 years...
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6
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From: Long Island, NY
T/A hasn't been started in 2 years... My 99 T/A has been sitting for 2 years.... I'm looking for some advice on what I should do before starting it beyond the obvious such as oil change, battery.. Thank you in advance.
But I'm serious, do the obvious and drive.
My lt1 sat for 2 yrs. I put 5 fresh gals. of gas plus a yellow bottle of heat, and a fresh batt. Turned the key on to let it turn over about 3 times, then she fired right up. Checked all the fluids while it was running then changed the oil after running it for about 15 mins. Good luck
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,407
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From: Knappa, Oregon
I personally, would pull all the plugs and wires. Then I'd turn the engine over while they are still out for about 5-10 seconds. Then put in New plugs and wires before starting it. And treat it as if you were breaking in a new engine. Take it easy on it and change the oil after driving it for a short time. You could have slight ridges or deposits where the pistons stopped if the engine hasn't been turned over in a long time. So you want to let things smooth out a bit.
I'm over cautious. You could probably just start it. But since you asked, that's what I would do.
I'm over cautious. You could probably just start it. But since you asked, that's what I would do.
Pulling the plugs and wires and cranking it is going to wash the cylinders down with fuel.
Turning the key with them in is going to fire the fuel right up.
I've seen engines that have sat for 15 - 20 years untouched, when disassembled had as much oil on the bearings and crank, and cylinder walls as they did when all the machine work was done and it was all reassembled, ready to start.
Turning the key with them in is going to fire the fuel right up.
I've seen engines that have sat for 15 - 20 years untouched, when disassembled had as much oil on the bearings and crank, and cylinder walls as they did when all the machine work was done and it was all reassembled, ready to start.
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Best bet would be to drain the gas, change the oil before you even turn it over, disconnect the injectors and turn it over for about 15-20 seconds to prime the oil system and get everything lubed and give the lifters a chance to "pump" back up. So long as you have the injectors disconnected you should have to worry about disconnecting the coils but would be easy enough to unplug both sets of coils. Put some fresh gas in it, cylce the key on & off a few times to get the fuel system primed and you should be good to go.
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Teching In
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6
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From: Long Island, NY
Its an m6, and unfortunatly its been sitting outside. I'm guessing I can just pull the fuel pump fuse to crank it and prime the oil pump.... What does everyone think would be best as far as oil, change it before or right after restarting it?
Personally, I would change it before. If the car has been sitting outside the whole time, I'm sure it has moisture in it and why pump it thru the system. If it were my car, I would change the oil & filter and start it and drive it around the block and let it get up to temp and then change the oil & filter again. Just cheap insurance the way I see it but I have OCD about that kind of stuff.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6
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From: Long Island, NY
Thanks for the help... I changed the oil and the battery, put some fresh gas in and it cranked right up.... Now I just need to change the wheel bearings I think I scared most of the local pets with the high pitch noise 
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 19
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From: Htown
Have stabil in the gas?
If not syphone it out and find a way to clear the lines up to the injectors. Pretty easy to do on my 5.0 just open the line and jump the fuel pump... Or maybe you can jump the pump and it will cycle back into the tank on top of fresh gas (no biggie).
Even if it had stabil in the gas I'd still pump it out after 2 years.
Hope it sat inside on concrete and the tank was full..
Change the oil before hand since it'll have moisture at the bottom of the pan.
Check all the fluids then I'd probably change them... Transmission probably has moisture sitting at the bottom of the pan.
I'd pull the fuel pump fuse and turn it over a few times at 15 second intervals before cranking it.
All that shouldn't take more than a couple hours and can save an injector, bearing, or valve. For some odd reason I don't know it seems like old gas will toast valves...
If not syphone it out and find a way to clear the lines up to the injectors. Pretty easy to do on my 5.0 just open the line and jump the fuel pump... Or maybe you can jump the pump and it will cycle back into the tank on top of fresh gas (no biggie).
Even if it had stabil in the gas I'd still pump it out after 2 years.
Hope it sat inside on concrete and the tank was full..
Change the oil before hand since it'll have moisture at the bottom of the pan.
Check all the fluids then I'd probably change them... Transmission probably has moisture sitting at the bottom of the pan.
I'd pull the fuel pump fuse and turn it over a few times at 15 second intervals before cranking it.
All that shouldn't take more than a couple hours and can save an injector, bearing, or valve. For some odd reason I don't know it seems like old gas will toast valves...
you can also hold ur foot to the floor and thatll shut off the injectors, also dont be suprised if ur fuel pump is ****, once you get it running, or primed check the pressure in the rails
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 19
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From: Htown
after not running for 2 years!I'd pull the fuel pump fuse, it should only take a few seconds to pull the fuse. At any length I pull the fuse on a couple cars I've let sit up for months at a time just as theft prevention... forgot to mention that.
Just crank it over a few times to get it all oiled back up then pop the fuse back in. If everything else is in order it should run.
