How to change the front brakes? help
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How to change the front brakes? help Someone told me i don't have to open the brake resuiver, is this true?
In the past i open the brake resuiver then squeeze the calipier pistons in.
But if its true that i can leave the brake resuiver closed while doing the front brakes then i might do this, so i don't have to bleed the brakes.
Help please, thanks.
In the past i open the brake resuiver then squeeze the calipier pistons in.
But if its true that i can leave the brake resuiver closed while doing the front brakes then i might do this, so i don't have to bleed the brakes.
Help please, thanks.
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I like to take the cap off and put a rag over the opening. Every now and then i will forget and the brake fluid cap wil pop off due to the pistons being pushed back in., theres no need to bleed the brakes after a routine rotor and pad change, just remember to pump the brake pedal 8-10 times to restore the pressure.
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Forgot to mention. I bought some semi-metalic pads from autozone and i got a lift-time warrenty, and they only cost me 27 bucks i think it was.
I know that semi-metalic pads produce more brake dust and that there bound to squick, but they are also a better pad for quicker braking? Least thats what i've read.
I know that semi-metalic pads produce more brake dust and that there bound to squick, but they are also a better pad for quicker braking? Least thats what i've read.
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Your not understanding. You only need to bleed if you introduce air into the LINES not in the filler cap. That would mean everytime you open it you rebleed? No you open the cap to let the pressure out of the line and let it fill the cup back up. Some people suck out a little fluid so it doesn't over run. If you leave it closed you might damage the cap or over run the cup with brake fluid when you compress the pistons putting brake fluid all over your paint. Unless you empty the whole thing and don't fill it back when your done then you won't have to bleed anything.
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Your not understanding. You only need to bleed if you introduce air into the LINES not in the filler cap. That would mean everytime you open it you rebleed? No you open the cap to let the pressure out of the line and let it fill the cup back up. Some people suck out a little fluid so it doesn't over run. If you leave it closed you might damage the cap or over run the cup with brake fluid when you compress the pistons putting brake fluid all over your paint. Unless you empty the whole thing and don't fill it back when your done then you won't have to bleed anything.
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semi matlic is supposed to be a better stopping brake pad then ceramic so i want to see what the differnce feels like, more stopping power is cool with me, been wanting hawk pad for awhile but when the time comes i always go with a cheaper brake pads
one time i bough some generic brake pads -usally buy some pads with a recognizable name- but these i didn't recognize the name about 2 months later i have to check the front brakes and the brakes i just bough 2 months ago split in half, since then i try an buy pads that have a recognizeable name
one time i bough some generic brake pads -usally buy some pads with a recognizable name- but these i didn't recognize the name about 2 months later i have to check the front brakes and the brakes i just bough 2 months ago split in half, since then i try an buy pads that have a recognizeable name
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I didn't have to remove any fluid from the cup when I did it. If you have a buddy have him compress the cylinder in the caliper and watch the fluid level go up. Make sure it doesn't over run. If it doesn't your set since when you pump the brakes it will go back down to the original level. If you have to take some out to keep it from running over then when your done pump the brake once then look at the cup and add if needed. Keep doing that till the pedal is firm again and your set.
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And FWIW I run the duralast pad from Autozone and couldn't be happier. They only squeak a LITTLE bit when cold and thats it. Also stop way better then my old pads that were supposedly hawk but I'm not sure.
If you let your pads wear down so far that fluid needs to be added to the reservior and you wait to add till it drops too low,thats when you have air in the system. If you add fluid to it before it drops too low then when you go to change pads and push the pistons in,you have too much fluid and it will overflow the reservoir so you need to remove cap.
If you change your pads before you need to add fluid or get air in there, then the fluid level will always be correct and no need to remove cap or bleed.
If you change your pads before you need to add fluid or get air in there, then the fluid level will always be correct and no need to remove cap or bleed.
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If you have added brake fluid since the last pad change you would most certainly need to remove brake fluid during this change.
It would be a good idea to remove some brake fluid anyway since you'll be pushing the pucks back in pretty much as far as you can so it all fits back together without being a big PITA.
I use the opportunity to remove ALL the brake fluid in the reservoir and replace it with new. And, no, you will not introduce air into your brake lines by doing any of this. You do that only when you crack the bleeders open or any of the line connections.
The large number of pumps at initial startup are simply the pucks returning to their normal position and all things returning to normal. They should be normal within a very short period of time. If this does not happen this way, something is not correct with how you've done things.
It would be a good idea to remove some brake fluid anyway since you'll be pushing the pucks back in pretty much as far as you can so it all fits back together without being a big PITA.
I use the opportunity to remove ALL the brake fluid in the reservoir and replace it with new. And, no, you will not introduce air into your brake lines by doing any of this. You do that only when you crack the bleeders open or any of the line connections.
The large number of pumps at initial startup are simply the pucks returning to their normal position and all things returning to normal. They should be normal within a very short period of time. If this does not happen this way, something is not correct with how you've done things.
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Remove the reservoir cap. With a turkey baster, remove 3/4 of the old brake fliud and place a rag over the opening.
Remove the calipers and replace the pads. This requires you to push the caliper pistons back into the calipers. I use a large C-clamp for this purpose.
Pusing in the pistons will force old fliud in the lines back into the reservoir. This is why you remove the cap and most of the old fliud.
After you bolt back the calipers with the new pads, refill the caliper resorvoir with ne fluid and replace the cap.
Pump the brake peddle and re-check the fluid level.
Remove the calipers and replace the pads. This requires you to push the caliper pistons back into the calipers. I use a large C-clamp for this purpose.
Pusing in the pistons will force old fliud in the lines back into the reservoir. This is why you remove the cap and most of the old fliud.
After you bolt back the calipers with the new pads, refill the caliper resorvoir with ne fluid and replace the cap.
Pump the brake peddle and re-check the fluid level.
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From: Ventura County, California
I like to take the cap off and put a rag over the opening. Every now and then i will forget and the brake fluid cap wil pop off due to the pistons being pushed back in., theres no need to bleed the brakes after a routine rotor and pad change, just remember to pump the brake pedal 8-10 times to restore the pressure.
Your not understanding. You only need to bleed if you introduce air into the LINES not in the filler cap. That would mean everytime you open it you rebleed? No you open the cap to let the pressure out of the line and let it fill the cup back up. Some people suck out a little fluid so it doesn't over run. If you leave it closed you might damage the cap or over run the cup with brake fluid when you compress the pistons putting brake fluid all over your paint. Unless you empty the whole thing and don't fill it back when your done then you won't have to bleed anything.
Thanks a lot guys. For the first time i didn't bleed the brakes after i put on the pads, saved a lot of pain. For years i was bleeding the brake system when i didn't have to
now i know better thanks a bunch!Everybody who responded thanks. I was confused, been bleeding the brakes after each pad install for years. I did the brakes yesterday with-in 2 hours time, it went great. Test drive and much better braking. Thanks.
