Seafoam problem
YOU PAID $315 to spray a $4 can of chemtool on your MAF and replace 2 screw in o2 sensors that cost $75 a piece?!!?!!? All you need to replace is the front 2, the rear dosent do anything. And BTW how do you know that doing it through the vacuum line is what caused it? Were you doing different steps on seperate occasions or what
? You do it all at ONCE and get your oil changed soon after ONCE. If you did it seperately i hope you changed the oil each seperate time in the alotted amount of time. Replace your friggin fuel filters people - there six freakin dollars and take 5 min to replace!!! not 100% sure on this issue, read the complete thread of choco and couldnt verify 100% so ill ask, sorry if im hijacking 
i know the correct order to do seafoam in your gas tank, oil, then brake booster. But, do you put it in your oil AFTER you run your tank down to empty or do it all at the same time? also do you do the brake booster AFTER you change your oil or do it at the same time as you put seafoam in the oil? thanks! ill be doing it this weekend to my 01 camaro 92k so wanted to verify first.
i know the correct order to do seafoam in your gas tank, oil, then brake booster. But, do you put it in your oil AFTER you run your tank down to empty or do it all at the same time? also do you do the brake booster AFTER you change your oil or do it at the same time as you put seafoam in the oil? thanks! ill be doing it this weekend to my 01 camaro 92k so wanted to verify first. 
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You put it in the oil crankcase and the fuel tank at the same time. Run it for 100 miles, then change oil. You put it in the brake booster vacuum hose, then drive it fast, and don't change the oil again.
Thats just the way ive always done it.
And for those who dont know and put it off because the quick lube said they wont do it - THE FUEL FILTER IS THE LITTLE (IN LINE) METAL CANISTER MOUNTED JUST BEHIND THE DRIVER SIDE REAR TIRE UNDERNEATH THE CAR. YOU WILL GET GAS ALL OVER YOU BUT DONT WORRY IT WILL STOP WHEN THE LINE DRAINS OUT (NOT THE TANK). I THINK THE LINE IS A SIMPLE CLAMP ON ONE SIDE AND JUST THE QUICK CONNECT ON THE END OF THE FILTER NECK ON THE OTHER (NO CLAMP NEEDED). JUST PULL THE ONE END OUT WHILE PRESSING DOWN ON EITHER WING OF THE QUICK CONNECT. THE QC TOOL IS NOT NEEDED DONT BUY IT. SOME CARS HAVE A BRACKET THAT HOLDS THE FILTER IN PLACE (MY SS DID & MY T/A DIDNT) - IT PUSHES OUT FROM ONE SIDE. SIMPLE STUFF - NOW PROCEED TO SLAP YOURSELF
FOR NEVER DOING IT EARLIER AND DO IT EVERY OIL CHANGE INTERVAL FROM NOW ON. 
(ITS $6 DUDE!!)IF YOU WONDER JUST HOW DIRTY IT WAS JUST BLOW THROUGH THE NEW ONE AND THEN THE (YES WIPE IT OFF) OLD ONE AND JUST SEE THE DIFFERENCE - LIKE WO!! YOUR WELCOME - THIS SHOULD BE A FRIGGIN STICKEY IN THE GR&M FORUM.
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In other words, I recall in the write up being a note about the fact that "seafoam cleans the combustion chambers and upper intake tract" depending on how dirty you upper intake tract is, where do you think that "dirt" will go? Through the combustion chambers. Chances of fouling plugs are high in this case. I always inspect my plugs after a seafoam to make sure they are fine. Though on a LT1 car I expect that to be a bit harder.
