Harmonic Balancer Flew off!?!?!?
Harmonic Balancer Flew off!?!?!? I feel kind of stupid for posting this But My Harmonic Balancer walked its way off the snout of the crank!!! Im driving home for THanksgiving and I start to hear the belt so I stop and check and it looked as though the HB was wobbling but I figured it was a illusion. Allmast got home and I just jump on it to clean it up after puting down the highway and after I let off I heard a loud clunk under the hood so I stoped and looked and the HB was gone. I found it but HOW the hell did it just come off I dont know if its my fault or the manufacturer's. And is there any one in the Lakeland area that has a stocker they can give me or something I just dont know how this could of happened????? Its a ASP pulley Thanks for any help.
TECH Regular
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 458
Likes: 0
From: Marissa, Il
Your not the first. Multiple things could have attributed to this. Stock crank bolt was re-used, The final torque spec was not met, Could have been both. Bad thing is when they come off like that it can destroy the pulley and if it was wobbling chances are that is is now damaged. not to mention the damage of it hitting the pavement, ect.
has happened to a few guys here locally and its always contributed by them re-using their stock crank bolt....
if you used your stock crank bolt on your underdrive pulley,thats prolly what caused it
if you used your stock crank bolt on your underdrive pulley,thats prolly what caused it
Stock crank bolt what else is there to use? I used A new one, I torque'd it as far as I could untill it was moving the car. Im not sure I can get any tight'r then I did.
Trending Topics
its from not putting it on correctly. if it isnt fully seated on the crank it can easily walk off. ive seen it happen on numerous cars. you should install it with the old bolt at 240 ft lbs, then remove the old bolt and put the new one in and torque it to 37 ft lbs. after that mark it or use a degree wheel and then turn it 140 degrees further. it is going to feel like you are going to snap it but its actually just stretching the bolt. i always use some blue loctite as well just for insurance. dont use red you will never get it out.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
TECH Resident
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 937
Likes: 0
From: South Alabama
Don't forget the HB has to have a recess/offset distance measurement between 0.094" to 0.167" between the face of the HB and the face of the crank, you will need to certify the exact dimension/operational parameter with the Helms manual, its been awhile and I can't be sure I remember the distance exactly.
Last edited by Weezzer; Nov 26, 2008 at 09:49 PM.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 937
Likes: 0
From: South Alabama
Actually the operation is designed to take the bolt beyond the 2% elasticity range and into the plastic range of deformation (stress/strain diagram). The procedure is designed to raise the clamping force of the bolt head to its maximum; however, it’s a one shot deal. It’s why they tell you to use a new bolt the next time around as the bolt has been permanently deformed.
Last edited by Weezzer; Nov 26, 2008 at 10:00 PM.
Actually the operation is designed to take the bolt beyond the 2% elasticity range and into the plastic range of deformation (stress/strain diagram). The procedure is designed to raise the clamping force of the bolt head to its maximum; however, it’s a one shot deal. It’s why they tell you to use a new bolt the next time around as the bolt has been permanently deformed.
thank you for "technically" defining what i just said.
You can get them at the Dealer for $5..I've bought a few..
Yea, it's a mother ****** to get that thing on, I have used a 3ft 3/4" Drive Breaker Bar to put it on, and it's a good little feat.
The Stock Head Bolts are the same way, they stretch once, then they are done.
Yea, it's a mother ****** to get that thing on, I have used a 3ft 3/4" Drive Breaker Bar to put it on, and it's a good little feat.
The Stock Head Bolts are the same way, they stretch once, then they are done.
a buddy of mine's asp fell off a few months ago and he was just cruising... I pretty much saw it happen. I've got the same pulley on my car and mine is doing just fine. I pray it stays that way!
Might want to check and retap the threads. I had some one around here put one on for me, long story short I couldn't figure out why I kept going through blower belts. I tore the hole thing apart and found a lose crank bolt and as well as damaged threads. Take your time and do it right.
its from not putting it on correctly. if it isnt fully seated on the crank it can easily walk off. ive seen it happen on numerous cars. you should install it with the old bolt at 240 ft lbs, then remove the old bolt and put the new one in and torque it to 37 ft lbs. after that mark it or use a degree wheel and then turn it 140 degrees further. it is going to feel like you are going to snap it but its actually just stretching the bolt. i always use some blue loctite as well just for insurance. dont use red you will never get it out.
Actually LS2bait nailed it on the head and must have been reading the Haynes Manuel
That damn bolt looks so simple and has been a huge PIA for almost everybody here when doing the first cam install
As my old friend "Pap Parker" used to say, "I would rather sandpaper a wildcats a$$ than"...............
