Low voltage?
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From: Pineville, LA
Low voltage? Just recently my car has been running in the red on my voltage meter. The instrument panel looks a little dim and it seems like the alternator is not charging. I just put a brand new alternator from Chevy in, new instrument panel, and new Optima battery. I thought it was the new battery so I put a different one in and still has the same problem. My lights don't flicker, the car kind of surges at low rpms, and the meter never goes up or down even in motion. Sometimes in the morning I will turn the ignition on and it won't start or even turn over for maybe a second or two and then start right up. That doesn't happen often though. If the voltage reg is inside the alternater, what else could it be?
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From: Pineville, LA
I'm thinking it's the alternater. It isn't charging the battery and the voltage to the battery keeps getting lower. The voltage read 11 then went down to 10 on the battery. It was replaced through Chevy with a lifetime warranty.
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From: san jose, ca
it can get complicated but if u own a dvom and know how to use it, do voltage drops across the positive side and negative side of the charging system. first make sure the battery is charged.vehicle needs to be running. for positive side voltage drop, put one lead on the + side of the battery and the other to the alternator battery feed. this will test if the cable from the alternator has high resistance or an open. a good reading will be less than .5 volts but not 0.if u read close to battery voltage u have high resistance.if u read exactly battery voltage u have an open. for the - side.one lead to the - side of the battery and the other to the case of the alternator. readings should be the same as above. if not just like above high resistance or an open in the ground side of the charging system. with the vehicle on u should have anywhere from 13.5 to 14.5 volts at the battery. if all passes you could have two problems. pcm not letting the alternator charge or alternator is faulty. hope this helps
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I took it back to the dealer. I had one of those bootleg warranties for my vehicle that cost for $1800. I never thought I would use it but the alternator from Chevy was $700. Between a new rear end, coolant lines and gaskets, new power steering, new brake master cylinder, new AC, new alternator, and new instrument panel the total bill was $8000 all covered by my hole in the wall warranty company that I paid $1800 for. 
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Thread Starter
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From: Pineville, LA
It needed a new alternator and new battery bolts. The bolts that screw into the battery. Works fine now. Mine went up when I was driving too until the battery bolts were replaced.
Check the red wire that goes to the alternator. Its part of the engine harness. My friend had your same symptoms. Check the red wire that plugs into the back of the alt and see if its broke or not.
-Mark
-Mark
The ticking has something to do with the vent selection i.e( foot, face, foot and face) Because my dd does that if its on face. Its annoying as hell. Could be a loose vacuum connection not actuating the valve to open or close it.
But that little red wire can cause havoc on LS1's. Low Voltage + LS1 = weird things happening every where.
But that little red wire can cause havoc on LS1's. Low Voltage + LS1 = weird things happening every where.
