P1514 Reduced Engine Power & More
#1
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After typing, I realize it's long. I'm very sorry - it's a frustrating HUGE issue that I have yet to resolve. Cheers to anyone who reads through it in it's entirety. Cheers x2 to anyone with any info
Thanks SO MUCH in advance!!
-John
Hello Everyone!
My name is John and I have a 2000 C5. Recently It had front end damage. Nothing mechanical was harmed or damaged, it was purely body damage.
While replacing body panels and the front clip/hood...i have decided to upgrade some bolt ons. Prior to the upgrade, everything worked FINE. And I mean, I could drive it without a hood, fenders or front clip, with no issue for however long. No start up issue, etc..
(aside from the occassional C5 electrical theft issue, which I believe is a resistor chip issue - i do not find this relevant)
This is what I have purchased and installed:
BBK intake Manifold SSI
BBK 80mm Throttle Body
Dual Cone Chrome intake system
180 Degree Thermostat
NGK platinum plugs pre-spaced
MSD wires
And a SLP Mass air flow sensor
New Serpentine Belt & Tensioner
After the installation of said parts (o-rings replaced on injectors as well)
The car will turn over, the inital "roar" or first rev will occur, then it immediately dies. I hope that is the best way to explain it.
Also, sometimes when i try to start it, there will be a "back fire" type sound from within the engine bay.
Things I have tried:
I have taken the manifold back off, and discovered the MAP sensor was un-hooked (i was not back there for that part of the job);
I have replaced the Mass air flow sensor with the stock one, after reading maybe that was the problem;
I have replaced the throttle body with the original throttle body;
I have checked thoroughly for any thing that might be unplugged or left out by mistake. I have found nothing. There is one very tiny radiator hose that travels from the manifold into the throttle body, driver side, which is too short for the length, but due to time (last night we worked over night) we had "made it work" ...yet it still sort of pops off at the start. I do realize I need a hose for this, and plan to get one before this weekend, however, I highly doubt this is the problem.
Originally i had thought maybe the fuel rail was not pressurizing enough, I had put 5 gallons of premium gas in the car (never know and couldn't hurt), and I have also left the key in the start position without starting and waiting 30 seconds numerous times, trying to repressurize the rail.
After each thing i've tried listed above, i have had the same symptons, and no start.
Do you need to re-tune the vehicle when you replace the intake setup ??
I already have a Borla Exhaust & for some reason, an H pipe with what appears to be shorty headers. So... I'm really not sure how that all works together with stock injectors.
I mean, I assumed you wouldn't have to reprogram the computer or tune it or anything with just a simple manifold / throttle / MAFS / intake setup....
Most people I find that throw the 1514 code with the Reduced Engine power have it due to boost setups;
Just for the heck of it, here's a list of the other codes I threw when self-diagnosing:
10-pcm
p1514
p0107 c Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
p1518 h PCM to TAC Module Serial Data Circuit
28-tcs
c1255 h EBTCM Internal Malfunction
c1278 h TCS Temporarily Inhibited By PCM
rtd
no codes
40-bcm
b0432 h Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
b0507 h LH DRL Relay Circuit
b2587 h Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A)
b2592 h Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
u1255 h Serial Data Line Malfunction
u1096 h Loss of Communications with IPC
u1016 h Loss of Communications with PCM
58-sdm
b1001 h
u1000 h
u1040 h
u1096 h
ipc
no codes
80-radio
no communication
hvac
no codes
a0-ldcm
b2282 h Battery #1 Fault
b2284 h Battery #2 Fault
u1064 h Loss of Communications with BCM
u1096 h Loss of Communications with IPC
a1-rdcm
b2283 h Battery #1 Fault
b2285 h Battery #2 Fault
u1064 h Loss of Communications with BCM
u1096 h Loss of Communications with IPC
a6-scm
no codes
b0-rfa
u1255 h Serial Data Line Malfunction
u1096 h Loss of Communication with IPC
u1064 h Loss of Communication with BCM
u1016 h Loss of Communication with PCM
So, thank you for ANYONE who read through this, or ANYONE who could offer ANY HELP AT ALL.
Each time I change something, I have to back it out of my drive way (can't do alone for obstacle and incline reasons on the way back up) and then jump it, and then push it back in when that attempt fails
It's cold!!
Thanks much -John
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
-John
Hello Everyone!
My name is John and I have a 2000 C5. Recently It had front end damage. Nothing mechanical was harmed or damaged, it was purely body damage.
While replacing body panels and the front clip/hood...i have decided to upgrade some bolt ons. Prior to the upgrade, everything worked FINE. And I mean, I could drive it without a hood, fenders or front clip, with no issue for however long. No start up issue, etc..
(aside from the occassional C5 electrical theft issue, which I believe is a resistor chip issue - i do not find this relevant)
This is what I have purchased and installed:
BBK intake Manifold SSI
BBK 80mm Throttle Body
Dual Cone Chrome intake system
180 Degree Thermostat
NGK platinum plugs pre-spaced
MSD wires
And a SLP Mass air flow sensor
New Serpentine Belt & Tensioner
After the installation of said parts (o-rings replaced on injectors as well)
The car will turn over, the inital "roar" or first rev will occur, then it immediately dies. I hope that is the best way to explain it.
Also, sometimes when i try to start it, there will be a "back fire" type sound from within the engine bay.
Things I have tried:
I have taken the manifold back off, and discovered the MAP sensor was un-hooked (i was not back there for that part of the job);
I have replaced the Mass air flow sensor with the stock one, after reading maybe that was the problem;
I have replaced the throttle body with the original throttle body;
I have checked thoroughly for any thing that might be unplugged or left out by mistake. I have found nothing. There is one very tiny radiator hose that travels from the manifold into the throttle body, driver side, which is too short for the length, but due to time (last night we worked over night) we had "made it work" ...yet it still sort of pops off at the start. I do realize I need a hose for this, and plan to get one before this weekend, however, I highly doubt this is the problem.
Originally i had thought maybe the fuel rail was not pressurizing enough, I had put 5 gallons of premium gas in the car (never know and couldn't hurt), and I have also left the key in the start position without starting and waiting 30 seconds numerous times, trying to repressurize the rail.
After each thing i've tried listed above, i have had the same symptons, and no start.
Do you need to re-tune the vehicle when you replace the intake setup ??
I already have a Borla Exhaust & for some reason, an H pipe with what appears to be shorty headers. So... I'm really not sure how that all works together with stock injectors.
I mean, I assumed you wouldn't have to reprogram the computer or tune it or anything with just a simple manifold / throttle / MAFS / intake setup....
Most people I find that throw the 1514 code with the Reduced Engine power have it due to boost setups;
Just for the heck of it, here's a list of the other codes I threw when self-diagnosing:
10-pcm
p1514
p0107 c Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
p1518 h PCM to TAC Module Serial Data Circuit
28-tcs
c1255 h EBTCM Internal Malfunction
c1278 h TCS Temporarily Inhibited By PCM
rtd
no codes
40-bcm
b0432 h Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
b0507 h LH DRL Relay Circuit
b2587 h Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A)
b2592 h Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
u1255 h Serial Data Line Malfunction
u1096 h Loss of Communications with IPC
u1016 h Loss of Communications with PCM
58-sdm
b1001 h
u1000 h
u1040 h
u1096 h
ipc
no codes
80-radio
no communication
hvac
no codes
a0-ldcm
b2282 h Battery #1 Fault
b2284 h Battery #2 Fault
u1064 h Loss of Communications with BCM
u1096 h Loss of Communications with IPC
a1-rdcm
b2283 h Battery #1 Fault
b2285 h Battery #2 Fault
u1064 h Loss of Communications with BCM
u1096 h Loss of Communications with IPC
a6-scm
no codes
b0-rfa
u1255 h Serial Data Line Malfunction
u1096 h Loss of Communication with IPC
u1064 h Loss of Communication with BCM
u1016 h Loss of Communication with PCM
So, thank you for ANYONE who read through this, or ANYONE who could offer ANY HELP AT ALL.
Each time I change something, I have to back it out of my drive way (can't do alone for obstacle and incline reasons on the way back up) and then jump it, and then push it back in when that attempt fails
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
Thanks much -John
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#8
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My security light blinks sometimes, The VATS is a likely problem. Perhaps I should have that disabled. Would you suggest having someone do it, if so who? A shop, a dealership? Or should I try and do this myself somehow?
I'm willing to learn and play, that's for sure!
All of these comments are a huge help, the ideas rolling are better than my dead end! THANKS and please keep them coming!
Also...Someone suggested to me it could be my fuel rail....maybe get new injectors and a new rail?
-John
I'm willing to learn and play, that's for sure!
All of these comments are a huge help, the ideas rolling are better than my dead end! THANKS and please keep them coming!
Also...Someone suggested to me it could be my fuel rail....maybe get new injectors and a new rail?
-John
#9
#10
Banned
iTrader: (10)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My security light blinks sometimes, The VATS is a likely problem. Perhaps I should have that disabled. Would you suggest having someone do it, if so who? A shop, a dealership? Or should I try and do this myself somehow?
I'm willing to learn and play, that's for sure!
All of these comments are a huge help, the ideas rolling are better than my dead end! THANKS and please keep them coming!
Also...Someone suggested to me it could be my fuel rail....maybe get new injectors and a new rail?
-John
I'm willing to learn and play, that's for sure!
All of these comments are a huge help, the ideas rolling are better than my dead end! THANKS and please keep them coming!
Also...Someone suggested to me it could be my fuel rail....maybe get new injectors and a new rail?
-John
If the PCM determines the airflow exceeds what it feels is acceptable for the tps range, the 1514 code is set. In a nutshell.
I would start by disconnecting the ETC, check the connectors for bent pins, loose pins, etc, then plug it back in.
Then, find someone with a scanner and good diagnostic capabilities.
#13
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I made an appointment with A local chevy dealership for a tune on Tuesday...
I am trying to find someone better in the meantime.
I'll have to have the car towed there I suppose - they can't tune it with just the ECU and specs of the parts right?
I have someone coming to look at it tomorrow... for a couple of hours too.
#14
Banned
iTrader: (10)
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Pins are clean and in position, the ETC looks fine...I put the SLP Air flow sensor and BBK throttle body back on, if i'm going to have it tuned it's essential.
I made an appointment with A local chevy dealership for a tune on Tuesday...
I am trying to find someone better in the meantime.
I'll have to have the car towed there I suppose - they can't tune it with just the ECU and specs of the parts right?
I have someone coming to look at it tomorrow... for a couple of hours too.
I made an appointment with A local chevy dealership for a tune on Tuesday...
I am trying to find someone better in the meantime.
I'll have to have the car towed there I suppose - they can't tune it with just the ECU and specs of the parts right?
I have someone coming to look at it tomorrow... for a couple of hours too.
#15
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im sure the chevy dealer can "tune it" theyll change your air filter, plugs, and wires, and fuel filter and send you on your way with a $500 bill and you car will be just the same
your Predicted airflow table needs upped....almost always happens when intake is changed...ed I need to hook up with you one of these days....not too far of a drive for me(SE NC)...got a few driveability issues i might need to pick your brain some...Im tuning with EFI live
your Predicted airflow table needs upped....almost always happens when intake is changed...ed I need to hook up with you one of these days....not too far of a drive for me(SE NC)...got a few driveability issues i might need to pick your brain some...Im tuning with EFI live
#16
#17
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Update - I checked everything today, again.
Took a timer to it, There is no spark. It would appear during the installation of the plugs I didn't replace the large cylinder like tubing that encases each plug, probably for a better ground or something.
Never saw anything like it before, and it's my first vette...so...I believe this is the problem. After replacing them tomorrow, I'll update again with more info.
Took a timer to it, There is no spark. It would appear during the installation of the plugs I didn't replace the large cylinder like tubing that encases each plug, probably for a better ground or something.
Never saw anything like it before, and it's my first vette...so...I believe this is the problem. After replacing them tomorrow, I'll update again with more info.