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P1514 Reduced Engine Power & More

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Old 01-02-2009, 07:34 PM
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Red face P1514 Reduced Engine Power & More

After typing, I realize it's long. I'm very sorry - it's a frustrating HUGE issue that I have yet to resolve. Cheers to anyone who reads through it in it's entirety. Cheers x2 to anyone with any info Thanks SO MUCH in advance!!
-John
Hello Everyone!
My name is John and I have a 2000 C5. Recently It had front end damage. Nothing mechanical was harmed or damaged, it was purely body damage.

While replacing body panels and the front clip/hood...i have decided to upgrade some bolt ons. Prior to the upgrade, everything worked FINE. And I mean, I could drive it without a hood, fenders or front clip, with no issue for however long. No start up issue, etc..

(aside from the occassional C5 electrical theft issue, which I believe is a resistor chip issue - i do not find this relevant)

This is what I have purchased and installed:
BBK intake Manifold SSI
BBK 80mm Throttle Body
Dual Cone Chrome intake system
180 Degree Thermostat
NGK platinum plugs pre-spaced
MSD wires
And a SLP Mass air flow sensor
New Serpentine Belt & Tensioner

After the installation of said parts (o-rings replaced on injectors as well)

The car will turn over, the inital "roar" or first rev will occur, then it immediately dies. I hope that is the best way to explain it.

Also, sometimes when i try to start it, there will be a "back fire" type sound from within the engine bay.


Things I have tried:
I have taken the manifold back off, and discovered the MAP sensor was un-hooked (i was not back there for that part of the job);

I have replaced the Mass air flow sensor with the stock one, after reading maybe that was the problem;

I have replaced the throttle body with the original throttle body;

I have checked thoroughly for any thing that might be unplugged or left out by mistake. I have found nothing. There is one very tiny radiator hose that travels from the manifold into the throttle body, driver side, which is too short for the length, but due to time (last night we worked over night) we had "made it work" ...yet it still sort of pops off at the start. I do realize I need a hose for this, and plan to get one before this weekend, however, I highly doubt this is the problem.

Originally i had thought maybe the fuel rail was not pressurizing enough, I had put 5 gallons of premium gas in the car (never know and couldn't hurt), and I have also left the key in the start position without starting and waiting 30 seconds numerous times, trying to repressurize the rail.

After each thing i've tried listed above, i have had the same symptons, and no start.


Do you need to re-tune the vehicle when you replace the intake setup ??

I already have a Borla Exhaust & for some reason, an H pipe with what appears to be shorty headers. So... I'm really not sure how that all works together with stock injectors.

I mean, I assumed you wouldn't have to reprogram the computer or tune it or anything with just a simple manifold / throttle / MAFS / intake setup....

Most people I find that throw the 1514 code with the Reduced Engine power have it due to boost setups;


Just for the heck of it, here's a list of the other codes I threw when self-diagnosing:

10-pcm
p1514
p0107 c Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
p1518 h PCM to TAC Module Serial Data Circuit

28-tcs
c1255 h EBTCM Internal Malfunction
c1278 h TCS Temporarily Inhibited By PCM

rtd
no codes

40-bcm
b0432 h Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
b0507 h LH DRL Relay Circuit
b2587 h Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A)
b2592 h Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
u1255 h Serial Data Line Malfunction
u1096 h Loss of Communications with IPC
u1016 h Loss of Communications with PCM

58-sdm
b1001 h
u1000 h
u1040 h
u1096 h

ipc
no codes

80-radio
no communication

hvac
no codes

a0-ldcm
b2282 h Battery #1 Fault
b2284 h Battery #2 Fault
u1064 h Loss of Communications with BCM
u1096 h Loss of Communications with IPC

a1-rdcm
b2283 h Battery #1 Fault
b2285 h Battery #2 Fault
u1064 h Loss of Communications with BCM
u1096 h Loss of Communications with IPC

a6-scm
no codes

b0-rfa
u1255 h Serial Data Line Malfunction
u1096 h Loss of Communication with IPC
u1064 h Loss of Communication with BCM
u1016 h Loss of Communication with PCM


So, thank you for ANYONE who read through this, or ANYONE who could offer ANY HELP AT ALL.

Each time I change something, I have to back it out of my drive way (can't do alone for obstacle and incline reasons on the way back up) and then jump it, and then push it back in when that attempt fails It's cold!!


Thanks much -John
Old 01-02-2009, 07:37 PM
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Also, Mods - If this is the wrong section, I apologize, please move for me, I'm new here!
Old 01-02-2009, 08:01 PM
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Try resetting the pcm.
Old 01-02-2009, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by theguyulove2hate
Try resetting the pcm.
^ Unhook the battery for 4 or 5 hours, that might do the trick.
Old 01-02-2009, 08:47 PM
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With the U & B codes, I would suggest checking your Grounds. Something was moved or left off during the install is my guess.

Good luck

CD
Old 01-02-2009, 09:13 PM
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Check out gearchatter.com lots of info. My parents c5 is showing 1518 code something to do the TAC module.
Old 01-02-2009, 10:51 PM
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Is your security light blinking? After a rear end change my car would not start. I found it to be the VATS. I took the PCM out and had the VATS disabled.
Old 01-03-2009, 12:02 AM
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My security light blinks sometimes, The VATS is a likely problem. Perhaps I should have that disabled. Would you suggest having someone do it, if so who? A shop, a dealership? Or should I try and do this myself somehow?

I'm willing to learn and play, that's for sure!

All of these comments are a huge help, the ideas rolling are better than my dead end! THANKS and please keep them coming!

Also...Someone suggested to me it could be my fuel rail....maybe get new injectors and a new rail?

-John
Old 01-03-2009, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by AronZ28
^ Unhook the battery for 4 or 5 hours, that might do the trick.


Also, I have a battery cut off switch on the negative end...if this would do the job, it's done every day for the past week over night.
Old 01-03-2009, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by AZNvette
My security light blinks sometimes, The VATS is a likely problem. Perhaps I should have that disabled. Would you suggest having someone do it, if so who? A shop, a dealership? Or should I try and do this myself somehow?

I'm willing to learn and play, that's for sure!

All of these comments are a huge help, the ideas rolling are better than my dead end! THANKS and please keep them coming!

Also...Someone suggested to me it could be my fuel rail....maybe get new injectors and a new rail?

-John
It's not the fuel rail, and it's not the VATs. It most likely needs to be tuned. The 1514 is an airflow error basically.

If the PCM determines the airflow exceeds what it feels is acceptable for the tps range, the 1514 code is set. In a nutshell.

I would start by disconnecting the ETC, check the connectors for bent pins, loose pins, etc, then plug it back in.

Then, find someone with a scanner and good diagnostic capabilities.
Old 01-03-2009, 02:19 AM
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Thanks a lot for the answer!!!

what is a ETC??

The computer orrr....??
Old 01-03-2009, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by AZNvette
Thanks a lot for the answer!!!

what is a ETC??

The computer orrr....??
Electronic Throttle Control. Drive by wire.

PS, disconnect the throttle body connectors, check, reconnect.
Old 01-03-2009, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
Electronic Throttle Control. Drive by wire.

PS, disconnect the throttle body connectors, check, reconnect.
Pins are clean and in position, the ETC looks fine...I put the SLP Air flow sensor and BBK throttle body back on, if i'm going to have it tuned it's essential.

I made an appointment with A local chevy dealership for a tune on Tuesday...

I am trying to find someone better in the meantime.

I'll have to have the car towed there I suppose - they can't tune it with just the ECU and specs of the parts right?

I have someone coming to look at it tomorrow... for a couple of hours too.
Old 01-03-2009, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by AZNvette
Pins are clean and in position, the ETC looks fine...I put the SLP Air flow sensor and BBK throttle body back on, if i'm going to have it tuned it's essential.

I made an appointment with A local chevy dealership for a tune on Tuesday...

I am trying to find someone better in the meantime.

I'll have to have the car towed there I suppose - they can't tune it with just the ECU and specs of the parts right?

I have someone coming to look at it tomorrow... for a couple of hours too.
I doubt your dealer will be able to tune it. They don't do that kind of stuff.
Old 01-03-2009, 03:22 PM
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im sure the chevy dealer can "tune it" theyll change your air filter, plugs, and wires, and fuel filter and send you on your way with a $500 bill and you car will be just the same
your Predicted airflow table needs upped....almost always happens when intake is changed...ed I need to hook up with you one of these days....not too far of a drive for me(SE NC)...got a few driveability issues i might need to pick your brain some...Im tuning with EFI live
Old 01-04-2009, 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
I doubt your dealer will be able to tune it. They don't do that kind of stuff.


You're probably right.

Can you tune or can you recommend someone in the 757 Virginia beach/Newport News Virginia area?
Old 01-04-2009, 04:56 PM
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Update - I checked everything today, again.

Took a timer to it, There is no spark. It would appear during the installation of the plugs I didn't replace the large cylinder like tubing that encases each plug, probably for a better ground or something.

Never saw anything like it before, and it's my first vette...so...I believe this is the problem. After replacing them tomorrow, I'll update again with more info.



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