2KThunder

iTrader: (4)

At random times, usually on a semi hot start, the key will turn until the second notch (Accesory) and then go on further to engage the starter and crank the engine and the dash lights go off like they are supposed to but the engine wont crank. I hear a click in the engine compartment, and when I hit the first step I hear the fuel pump, but It wont do anything. I can just hold the key there and keep trying. After trying like 40 times it will decides it will start and starts fine. What could be wrong? This car is driving me crazy

DARK AGE 53

Starter solenoid, ignition switch?

Al

2KThunder

iTrader: (4)

Would that be situational though? It starts fine MOST of the time.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Check the battery cables / connections.

Chris2000Formula

Do you still have the stock battery? My car started acting just like you described. The positive battery terminal kept getting coroded. I would clean it and two weeks later it seemed coroded again. Turns out acid was leaking out of the positive battery terminal. Its a common problem with the stock battery.

ssfiress

same damn thing happened to me. battery acid leaked out and started eating my frame. luckily i caught it took itin to chevy. they replaced it and cleaned the spill up and everything is fine. this was about 4 months ago and a couple of times my car still wont start. the gauges wont fly back and forth like before when my battery was crapping out and i asked the question and someone said that it could be the chip in your key isnt giving the signal to the computer to crank the engine. he said it is either a corroded chip in the key or the sensor in the steering colum is going out.

2KThunder

iTrader: (4)

Is there anyway to be sure it is that? Isnt the key on the positive side of $100?


My battery is an Interstate (stock?), I did have that problem unrelated though, it would lose power completly all the time until you fooled with it and that was what it was, but the car still has power now, the lights and radio work, it just wont crank or do anything. I have noticed one thing though. The ignition has that arrow where you take they key out. My key can go past that 1/4 of an inch. I noticed it did it the last time it didnt start and doesnt do it all the time. Is the lock cyclinder mabye bad. Thanks for all replies.

FatZ28

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem, ended up being that battery acid was slowly eating away the battery cables. Took it to the chevy house and have had no more problems.

onehardmaro

Is your key dirty? The key must be clean and dry for the bcm to read it.

Tin Indian

QOUTE: "My battery is an Interstate (stock?)"

That's not "stock" at all

2KThunder

iTrader: (4)

I didnt think so....As for the key being dirty, no. But the BCM controls it? I did recently install an alarm and cut the wrong wire for the light control. I soldered them back but mabye it is a bad connection. Does anyone know what color the BCM wire for the ignition key is?

FrankSS

iTrader: (18)

if its the key, i only costs like $25 to get a new one made. just take ur VIN up to a dealership and they will set u up.

onehardmaro

I may be able to find out which wire it is tomorrow.

TAHotRada98

aside from the Pass Keyy II possibility, believe it or not if the Pass Key II key cyl., (where the chip is sensed from) is going bad then static from your pocket can effect the starting process. I go to school at UTI in Houston and the exact same thing your describing was happening on a 98 Aurora. We eventually found out that it was static electricity that was messing up the starting process due to a weak Key Cyl. Since the Olds. and GM F-bodies, not to mention other GM vehicles, use this same Pass Key II B.S. i thought maybe this info. might help.
Good Luck.

2KThunder

iTrader: (4)

I think something is wrong with the cyclinder itself. I read in the manual it is supposed to be able to be turned from the removal point to acessory counterclockwise. Mine didnt do that when I got the car, so I thought it wasfine until the other day (before problems started) it went passed the removal point into accesory. It doesnt go into accessory smoothly though, so I think the whole cylinder assembly is messed up. I dont want to take it apart and mess it up more though. Next time it happens ill take a better look and experiment some more. Thanks for all of your suggestions,
John

Blk98Bird

Ditto on this one. I just replaced my stock battery with an optima red-top because the stocker had finally crapped out. When I pulled the battery the terminals were so corroded they came OUT of the battery itself, and the pan had acid corrosion all over it from a crack/leak that had developed somewhere along the bottom. Fun stuff...took forever to clean that **** out. It's done now though!