arggg! cant keep crank bolt in motor!

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Jun 14, 2009 | 07:16 PM

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From: pensacola fl

arggg! cant keep crank bolt in motor!

the 1st one i thought was my fault.
i hit it with the impact and let it ride. 230ft pd would be a decent guess from past experiences.
2nd bolt was covered in red rtv(all i had at the time)
torqued to 200ft pd with wrench, then hit with an extended breaker bar as hard as i can go.
arp bolt both times.

both have exited the motor.
what gives??
eagle crank and ati damper if it matters.

Jun 14, 2009 | 07:21 PM

Arc00TA

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From: The 'Nard

Whats the torque spec on that particular bolt? I know the stocker is like 32ft-lb + 170 degrees. You may have actually overtorqued it and ruined the threads inside your crank? 230ft-lb is a hell of a lot of torque for that small bolt.

Jun 14, 2009 | 07:45 PM

S10xGN

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From: Port Neches, TX

ARP calls for 230# with ARP moly lube (don't know why you'd feel inclined to use RTV)? Borrow a 16mm x 2.0 tap, clean that junk out of the threads in the crank, and try it again with the correct lube.

Russ

Jun 14, 2009 | 09:03 PM

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From: pensacola fl

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arc00TA

its either 230 or 250. threads in crank are good. verifyed with a stock bolt.

Jun 14, 2009 | 09:05 PM

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From: pensacola fl

Quote:

Originally Posted by S10xGN

looking in with a flashlight, there isnt much "junk" at all in the threads.
stock bolt spins in and out just fine by hand.
i might try a new stock bolt this time around.
dont know whats going on here.

Jun 14, 2009 | 10:19 PM

topdog515

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mine would spin out of the crank on my blower car until i used red loctite never had a problem after that

Jun 14, 2009 | 11:53 PM

99LSS1

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From: Monroe Wa.

Quote:

Originally Posted by topdog515

mine would spin out of the crank on my blower car until i used red loctite never had a problem after that

X2 on the Red Locktite. I have put in probably 30 Crank bolts in the last 2 years and never had one back out!!!

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Jun 15, 2009 | 07:30 PM

ItzQuik

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From: hamilton al

i didnt know you could use red locktite on the bolt

Jun 15, 2009 | 08:07 PM

#10

vsocks1

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From: Belgium, WI

Quote:

Originally Posted by ItzQuik

i didnt know you could use red locktite on the bolt

You are not supposed to - or it is not required. That is what ARP says...But...if you read the instructions for ATI dampener they say to use red loctite....who knows!

Jun 15, 2009 | 08:42 PM

#11

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From: pensacola fl

Quote:

Originally Posted by vsocks1

You are not supposed to - or it is not required. That is what ARP says...But...if you read the instructions for ATI dampener they say to use red loctite....who knows!

maybe its something to do with the damper?
mmm. im going with a cheap stock bolt this time. arp bolts are getting expensive for me.

Jun 15, 2009 | 08:43 PM

#12

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From: pensacola fl

Quote:

Originally Posted by dub.ya.es.SICK

i think to press the pulley on is 235 pounds then back it off and go to around 38 or something am i wrong? I havent had an issue yet!!

dont EVER press a pulley on with a bolt.
thats asking for trouble.
homeade stud kit is cheap from the local bolt supplier, or buy one online and do it right.

installer beware.

Jun 15, 2009 | 08:51 PM

#13

John02SS

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From: Pace, FL

Clean it out good with brake cleaner, blow it out with the air hose, and put it back in with a lil red loctite on it. ARP spec is 245 ft lb.

Jun 15, 2009 | 10:54 PM

#14

Super Speed

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From: 'Merica

I used locktight as well...

Jun 16, 2009 | 04:26 AM

#15

crainholio

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Good advice above and it's what I did back in 2004 when I installed my ATI balancer w/ an ARP crank bolt.

The threads on the bolt and the crank interior need to be very clean, Brake Parts Cleaner works well for this.

Red Loctite on the bolt threads, and ARP Moly Grease under the bolt cap. Torque to spec and you're done.

Jun 16, 2009 | 10:55 AM

#16

BigRich954RR

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From: NJ

I would use the Blue loctite. The red will be hard to heat with the bolt so deep in the crank if u ever need to get it out.

Aug 19, 2009 | 11:11 AM

#17

one fast zo6

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hi are you sure that the crank is drilled and threaded deep enough?

Aug 19, 2009 | 11:20 AM

#18

01ssreda4

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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigRich954RR

I would use the Blue loctite. The red will be hard to heat with the bolt so deep in the crank if u ever need to get it out.

They have red that is removeable or permanent. I usually buy the removeable red.

Aug 19, 2009 | 11:32 AM

#19

EndlessSummer85

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From: Amarillo, Tx

Use the ARP bolt to seat the pulley,(seeing that it's about 1'' longer) then back it out use a gm bolt with red locktite torque 230-250 then try to turn 90* and you're good to go