damper torque
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damper torque Will someone explain why the installation torque of the crank bolt is off the scale? I know the requirement specs and so on, just curious as to why so tight? Has GM witnessed the pulley fly off and recommended the torque spec? Will harmonics cause the bolt to loosen? Nobody has been able to give an honest answer so far.
well it takes a helluva lot of force to get that thing to seat way down the crank snount. then your supposed to back the bolt out and tourque it down at less. at least i think thats the drill.
This is how it is done correctly. You need to get a bolt that is longer than your crank bolt to pull on the damper or you could pull the last few threads out of your crankshaft...when you have your damper pulled on a good way You use your old crank bolt to seat the damper all the way on .... you torque it to 240 ft. lbs and then remove the old crank bolt..then get your new crank bolt and you torque your new crank bolt to 37 ft. lbs. ..... then get your longest badazz breaker bar and a 3 foot long cheater pipe to put over the end of your breaker bar for the leverage that your going to need and crank that sucker another 140 degrees and you will have it on to GM specs (if you are suffering from hemroids get soneone else to do it or your azzhole will turn itself inside out)... GM uses torque to yeild bolts on the LS series engines once they have been used (streched) they cannot be used again ... or you can get a ARP crank bolt and use it over and over again...
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TECH Resident
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From: On the coast of somewhere
That ^ was f'n hilarious. Thanks Guys for the real world explaination. This was good to know, my **** works just fine and would like to keep intack. There's a few friends I have that are gorillas, I'll put them to work.
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 779
Likes: 1
From: On the coast of somewhere
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