LS6 Intake Swap, Tuning needed?
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LS6 Intake Swap, Tuning needed? I will be swaping my LS1 intake to a LS6 soon. I know I will need the EGR turned off, but is there any tuning necessary?
What are the pros/cons of changing the cooling lines as opposed to not changing them?
Also, I know the procedures for the swap, but does anyone have any helpful hints or tips they've learned from the experience?
Thanks.
What are the pros/cons of changing the cooling lines as opposed to not changing them?
Also, I know the procedures for the swap, but does anyone have any helpful hints or tips they've learned from the experience?
Thanks.
I'm pretty sure you have to change the cooling lines to use the LS6 intake. You'll probably get an SES light, when taking the EGR off. So, a tune would be required for that. I'm also interested in knowing the answers to the question, since I'm going to be swapping in an LS6 intake manifold soon too.
you dont need to swap the coolant lines for the ls6 lines. and its actually recommended that you dont since that causes cooling issues with the rear cylinders, mainly the #7. what you do is grind down the ribs on the bottom of the intake and you dont need to buy anything for the coolant lines. and the only reason you would need a tune when removing the egr is to get rid of the SES light, it doesnt hurt performance, just an emission light.
You cannot use the ls1 coolant lines unless you shave the plastic square-shaped fins off the underside of the LS6. I ordered the LS6 coolant kit from texas-speed so I wouldn't have to do any shaving. As far as tuning, removing egr will throw a code. I used HP Tuners to turn off the code reporting. Also, after installing my LS6 intake, I was running a little lean so I went ahead and got a tune from a tuner in Topeka, KS. Fixed the lean issue. Most of the time, I do not believe you will need a tune just for the ls6 intake but mine was throwing a lean code so I went ahead and got a tune. As far as helpful hints...i broke my oil pressure sending unit in the back because i forgot it was back there. There is a vacuum hose on the back that you most lift over this sensor or you will snap it off. Also when reinstalling, make sure you get all hoses out from under the intake before you reinstall. It took a buddy and me about 2.5 hours to do the whole install (first time plus we had a lengthy part run/search for that sensor).
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Yeah, I'm familiar with having to grind off the fins to get the ls1 lines to fit. But I just read about the cooling issues using the crossover lines, so I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet since I've already ordered the crossover lines, guess I just won't put them on.
Greenbird - did you notice a difference in the way it runs and performance wise after the tune? Just curious, what's the goin rate for having a shop do a tune?
Greenbird - did you notice a difference in the way it runs and performance wise after the tune? Just curious, what's the goin rate for having a shop do a tune?
all you have to do is lightly tap the coolant lines down, you will notice they stick up when your pull off your ls1 intake. then grind the ribs as you know and you will be good to go. you don't HAVE to get a tune, I would wait until you do some more mods first. unless you have already done other mods?
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
^^^what he said. The car should wake up on the top end, especially with LTs and/or cam. Also, about the oil pressure sending unit. I have seen them break. I pulled my engine, then pulled my intake, and still broke it. They are super brittle. Just replace it anyway. The new sending unit is a lot stronger and will withstand any further intake swaps that you may need to do.
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all you have to do is lightly tap the coolant lines down, you will notice they stick up when your pull off your ls1 intake. then grind the ribs as you know and you will be good to go. you don't HAVE to get a tune, I would wait until you do some more mods first. unless you have already done other mods?
Here is some literature to help you out:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-manifold.html
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Verdad Gallardo ^^^what he said. The car should wake up on the top end, especially with LTs and/or cam. Also, about the oil pressure sending unit. I have seen them break. I pulled my engine, then pulled my intake, and still broke it. They are super brittle. Just replace it anyway. The new sending unit is a lot stronger and will withstand any further intake swaps that you may need to do.
I don't see how so many people break the oil pressure sending unit. I've done at least 5 swaps on my own and friends and never even came close to breaking one. Just pull the booster hose off the booster and reach your hand back and position it out of the way. Plus don't just go yanking on the manifold once all the bolts are loose.
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Thanks for the replies.
Yeah, I plan on doing some LT headers in the future so I will probably wait till then to get a tune, but does anyone know about how much it would cost just to get the EGR turned off so it don't throw a code?
I'm not worried too much about the OPSU considering I'm usually very careful when working around things like this, so shouldn't be a problem.
About how long has the swap taken to complete for yall guys?
Yeah, I plan on doing some LT headers in the future so I will probably wait till then to get a tune, but does anyone know about how much it would cost just to get the EGR turned off so it don't throw a code?
I'm not worried too much about the OPSU considering I'm usually very careful when working around things like this, so shouldn't be a problem.
About how long has the swap taken to complete for yall guys?
My tune was not a dyno tune. I went to a guy and he used HP Tuners and monitored the car while driving it and adjusted it to where it needed to be. The tune costed $165 and helped significantly. I went from never breaking loose in second, to actually chirping/breaking loose on the 1-2 shift!
Thanks for the replies.
Yeah, I plan on doing some LT headers in the future so I will probably wait till then to get a tune, but does anyone know about how much it would cost just to get the EGR turned off so it don't throw a code?
I'm not worried too much about the OPSU considering I'm usually very careful when working around things like this, so shouldn't be a problem.
About how long has the swap taken to complete for yall guys?
Yeah, I plan on doing some LT headers in the future so I will probably wait till then to get a tune, but does anyone know about how much it would cost just to get the EGR turned off so it don't throw a code?
I'm not worried too much about the OPSU considering I'm usually very careful when working around things like this, so shouldn't be a problem.
About how long has the swap taken to complete for yall guys?
I must be a god among men then. It is pretty easy to not break the OPSU if you are overly cautious like I was. My car had to get me another 125 miles back to Camp Lejeune for Raleigh. Just take it slow and you won't break it. Patience and time are your friend when removing the manifold. Just treat it as you would a daily driver if that isn't what it is for you. You need the car to get to your job to make money to spend on the car. Think of it that way and you will be much more calm when it wants to hang up and be a real pain in the ***.
Back when I did my ls6 intake I chiseled the bottom of it and didnt use new coolant lines. You dont need colant lines.
Just be careful not to break that little bastard in the back everyone warns you about. I was lucky and it didnt break on me.
You dont need tuning after the install. Although it would be a good idea unless you have more bigger mods to do soon.
Just be careful not to break that little bastard in the back everyone warns you about. I was lucky and it didnt break on me.
You dont need tuning after the install. Although it would be a good idea unless you have more bigger mods to do soon.
