Okay 2 more hours this is what is done. trying to follow ls1howto.com

MAF assembly out..

Two hoses up front of manifold pulled...

All injectors plugs disconnected and main wire harness removed from fuel rails

10 bolts are undone...

Here is the problem, I go to start pulling the manifold and the front lifts right off, the back won't lift... I have made sure all of the bolts spin free and lift up as much as they can but still nothing.... Any help would be appreciated guys. Here are some pics to show my progress.

 

pull the injectors and rails,unplug map sensor at back?,unplus oil pressure sending unit at back?,i unplug the hose at the brake booster and lift the manifold over the oil sending unit.

 

Well I got the manifold to the side with the injectors still attached I broke the oil pressure sending unit which is more money and I am starting to feel way over my head I don't know how to take off the map sensor from the manifold, I have to run out and get a deep socket and I don't know what other mysterious electrical lines vacuum lines I crinked or broke

 

Got the map sensor off of the back, when I put it in my new manifold it feels a little loose... should I put RtV silicon on the rubber seal to prevent leaks? Oh well, hopfully things will look better in the morning.

 

A tip that may help is this, First remove the intake bolts that you can get out, Pull the intake bolts in the back up about 2 inches, then take some rubber bands, and put them around the bolt, put the other end of the rubber band on the next bolt, or a piece of the fuel rail. You have to hold the bolts up some to remove the manifold, if you let them hang you will not be able to remove the manifold. Removing it is not bad, take the air inlet hoses off, the pvc lines, disconnect the IAT sensor wire, the TPS Wire, The MAP wire from the front, You do not have to pull the fuel rail or injectors to remove the manifold, that is crazy. just remove the wiring harness that feeds the injectors, and the coils, and put the harness aside. Remove the fuel line, remove the little canister looking deal on the DS of the manifold, i believe it to be some kind of evaporative part. Once you have this stuff off, remove the cables, Then lift the manifold off, pull it forward a little. set it back down, then reach behind it and unhook the map sensor wire, the brake vacuum line, and there is another small vacuum line ,,,, then lift the manifold up and pull it out. Dont be intimidated, I can remove my manifold in about 30 minutes. total, the first time I did it, I broke my oil pressure unit too. so dont feel bad.

 

Thanks man, I appreciate the support, Do you have any suggestions on where I can buy a good Oil sending unit, I have hear horror stories about them going out in a week. Also, would you use silcon or teflon tape to seal the threads, if so how many wraps should I give it? Any help would be appreciated.

 

Just get it at your local parts store u shouldnt have to worry about it breaking anymore the old ones are britle anyway.As for the silicon on the new orings NO if anything use a little dab of grease or something so when u put it back on the orings kinda slide on the mating surface.Dont worry about the orings theyll seal.When you tighten your bolts just snug them in a sequence from the inside out.Remember they only call for in,lbs in torque so dont over do it.As for RARON455 thats a good idea with the rubberbands never thought of that.

 

Correct me if I am wrong but,

On injector o rings I was just going to use a touch of w-d 40.

On Oil pressure sending unit, I was going to use rtv black or teflon tape, How many wraps of teflon?

On the back of MAP sensor I used a touch of black silicon to insure a good seal.

Here are some pics let me know if you see any red flags

 

Sorry here are pics

 

dont u have too convert the coolant tubes over to the ls6 style with plugs in the back and just a crossover in the front?

 

Yup, Haven't done it yet I was going to do it after clean up. Thanks for double checking me...

 

Progress taking off manifold....3.5 hours.

Finding Oil pressure switch...1 hour around town

Finding socket 1 hour.

cleaning...30 minutes

taking off and installing new pipes 2 hours.

I take my hat off to every single one of you who can do this in under four hours..

I decided to not use the shims that were on the old pipes because the ls6 pipes already came with little rubber O-rings.

I am in a little bit of a pickle...when I was going to different autoparts stores to find the correct sockets the idiot at checker orielly's decided to drop the damn new oil pressure sensor he kind of shook it to see if it was alright, and said it should be fine yah do I really want to take that chance? I put it on but am now thinking about just returning it and saying it didn't work...I don't know.

 

You get really good at it when you screw it up and you have to pull the intake back off a couple times (like myself).

 

God I hope I don't have to pull this thing off again, I have double checked just about everything. But There are certaing things you just can't plan for. I did a lot of leaning on my car and parts of the engine, who knows what I could have cracked or bent or pulled out with out knowing. For instance, I pushed pretty hard on the injectors before I realized it is more about lining them up right. then force. Just one of those question marks that will be solved on first start up.