hey, im getting some oil in my intake manifold so i was thinking about getting a catch can. does anyone know how the cheap ebay catch cans are? are all catch cans the same or do the more expensive ones really work better?
thanks

 

Get a revextreme one. Supposibly one of the best working ones.

 

The search button does wonders, but let me help you out.

This is all you need to know about catch cans---> https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...outing-ok.html

 

saikou michi makes the best catch cans.

 

I bought one from a sponsor. Still had a lil oil getting past ?

So, after investigating, I cut the bottom off an old A/C Accumulator. One of those big round ugly A/C things with the pipes.

Ok, so 1 pipe goes down to the bag of sand stuff at the bottom ( for moisture, which I threw out ). Then the other line connects at the top, for the outlet.

So, after I cut it apart, threaded the inputs for 3/8 threads, popped in fittings and a petcock in the bottom. Then I grabbed a PVC pipe coupler and glue to glue the 2 halves together.

Mounted it under the RF behind the front bumper cover down by the horns outta sight.
Plus the weight of it was less than the sponsors can......

Cost was around $15 ! I have not seen any oil in the intake since install !

 

Interesting! Got any pics?

 

I have an AMW catch can. It has a stainless steal oil/moisture separator built in.

 

The small cans are not as effective as the vapors need to cool to condense and to small of an area does not allow enough surface area.

On the filter media, it works great at first, but as soon as it is saturated the distance to the outlet is relatively short and droplets can pull off getting through.

If you have very little issue with oil in the intake they work great, anything more get a larger design and look carefully at the internal design.

 

Thanks TLewis. Good info.

 

Just vent (PCV) it to the atmosphere and cap the vacuum inlets.

 

can i do that, so cap the one that goes to the intake and how do i vent the pcv line then?

 

If you go this route you will sustain engine damage over time from the acids & combustion byproducts left in the crankcase. Allthough it's a free country and you can do as you choose, most value their motors far to much to go this route.

 

I'm pleased with my rev can. It's bigger than I was expecting

 

Any less than 1 qt diminshes the ability to cool & condense the vapors to droplets. For road-race guys a dual can set-up in series to cure the issue.

 

Not all catch cans are the same. Some work, some don't, some make the problems worse. If you have a catch can but never have oil in it then it's not working at all. All of these motors suck some oil through the pcv so no oil in the can is a clear sign something is up. I've had many customers who've told me they never get oil in their catch can but when I pull the intake it's filled with oil. Some catch cans make the oil problem worse because they'll condense the vapors into droplets but not trap them in the can so then you're sucking oil droplets into the intake and they puddle up. Some catch cans do actually work and keep oil out of the intake. When you ask around about different types of catch cans ask the people how much oil they get in the can and how much oil is in the intake. I believe a lot of people take for granted that their catch can is working and don't actually check the intake. You also want to look for a good size catch can and mount it away from the motor so it stays cooler and has the time to condense the vapors.

 

okay, think im gonna go for rev extreme catch can, thanks

 

Very good info. Agree completely.

 

I used my AMW catch can for about two years on my 509 BBC. The valve covers only had some cheap rubber style baffles so oil regularly got past. However, after the installation of the can all the oil was trapped in there. When I sold it the buyer committed on how clean the intake was. Its a small can but it definitely worked for me.

 

The Saikou Michi is the 2nd most functional on the market period. It shares the same dimensions as the RevX can and a very similar internal design with a perforated dispersion tube that makes sure the vapors make the maximum contact with the external cooling surface and is large enough to condense & sperate all but the worst offenders. The differance is the RevX can also has a disc baffeling system built in that is an extra diversion so the flow does a final path through an extra chamber to slow the flow down and get any suspension that may have made it that far one final cool-down to remove any resiual suspension. Then it also has a integrated PCV/check valve to assure the amount of flow is correct & prevents any back-flow or reversion. All the other popular ones are A: to small to allow the vapors enough time to properly cool and condense all the oil vapors to droplets (the Mike Norris/CCA is the best of all the smaller ones with mesh media inside due to the taller design and it gives more distance from the inlet & outlet, and more distance from the media to the outlet) and B: have an internal mesh media that does work well at first, but after the mesh saturates it is to close to the outlet so some droplets may still pull off and get through.

ALL cans (even the cheap air compresor coalescing home depot units) will trap oil....even a beer can with two fittings in will, but still allow a good deal of oil through. So yes, any unit will have oil in them when drained.....but the true test is to take the TB off and reach inside the snout with a paper towel and see how much is geting in. Thats why the Saikou Micci works so well. The size & the internal design that like the RevX allows the most complete dispersion of the oil ladden vapors to contact a much grater cooling surface.

 

I had mine mounted in the battery area on my 82 Monte which gave the oil plenty of time to cool. I used about three feet of hose to and from the can (total six feet). This distance is one reason I believe the catch can worker so well.