408 install help!!
408 install help!! We just installed my 408 Monster and it did crank ONE time... gas flew everywhere as the injector rail came up. We shut it down and it never cranked again. There is no fire coming from the coil packs from any of them. We grounded them to the heads then to the block. Power is going to the pink wire in the harness as it should. I have checked the fuses, the relays, and like I said power is going to the harness. Neither side will fire anything. The car has been sitting for about 4 years so thats why it looks so rough. Its a 97 c5. Anyone have any suggestions on where to look next?
We are thinking possibly the crank sensor. Thats going to be a JOB to change out because of the LTs. Hate to do that if its not the sensor. Is there some type ground that I missed? Does it ground to the coil pack bracket or the valve covers at all? Mine are painted thats why im asking. Before pulling them off and scratching off paint I just wanted to verify.
Thanks in advance!!
We are thinking possibly the crank sensor. Thats going to be a JOB to change out because of the LTs. Hate to do that if its not the sensor. Is there some type ground that I missed? Does it ground to the coil pack bracket or the valve covers at all? Mine are painted thats why im asking. Before pulling them off and scratching off paint I just wanted to verify.
Thanks in advance!!
What do you mean by 'the injector rail came up'?? Pull the plugs and make sure the cylinders arent filled with gas. Stop trying to roll it until you know this, you could break the starter bolt boss. Are you running a SD tune?? Wheres the MAF if you arent?? Double check all the sensors are plugged in and in the proper place, cam sensor in the back plugged in?? Do you have HP Tuners to watch the sensors??
Before you just crank it over you should prime the fuel system by cycling the key on and off a few times and dont roll the motor. If you just wanna roll the motor (to build oil pressure and prime), pull the fuse on the fuel pump and prevent it from potentially puking fuel into engine.
You could have a stuck injector(s) thats letting fuel into the engine. Also, do you have the fuel hooked up on the nitrous system?? If you do, remove that or prove the solenoid isnt leaking fuel into the engine.
Before you just crank it over you should prime the fuel system by cycling the key on and off a few times and dont roll the motor. If you just wanna roll the motor (to build oil pressure and prime), pull the fuse on the fuel pump and prevent it from potentially puking fuel into engine.
You could have a stuck injector(s) thats letting fuel into the engine. Also, do you have the fuel hooked up on the nitrous system?? If you do, remove that or prove the solenoid isnt leaking fuel into the engine.
The fuel rail came up. We may have flooded it because there was gas everywhere. After that it didnt crank. However I dont think thats the problem. The problem is that there is definately no spark from the coil packs. They didnt work on my car yesterday but I will get an update today. I will be going SD and we did prime it before firing. Nothing is hooked up on the nitrous setup yet. That stage is just there so I wouldnt have to pull it later when i do the set up. I do have an 85mm MAF but didnt think I had to have it on there just to fire to the engine. I only wanted to run it for 20 seconds max before continuing. My problem here is I am just not getting spark. If I can get that worked out I can get everything going from there. So any advice on why I dont have spark would be appreciated. Thanks cutlass_455.
What do you mean by 'the injector rail came up'?? Pull the plugs and make sure the cylinders arent filled with gas. Stop trying to roll it until you know this, you could break the starter bolt boss. Are you running a SD tune?? Wheres the MAF if you arent?? Double check all the sensors are plugged in and in the proper place, cam sensor in the back plugged in?? Do you have HP Tuners to watch the sensors??
Before you just crank it over you should prime the fuel system by cycling the key on and off a few times and dont roll the motor. If you just wanna roll the motor (to build oil pressure and prime), pull the fuse on the fuel pump and prevent it from potentially puking fuel into engine.
You could have a stuck injector(s) thats letting fuel into the engine. Also, do you have the fuel hooked up on the nitrous system?? If you do, remove that or prove the solenoid isnt leaking fuel into the engine.
Before you just crank it over you should prime the fuel system by cycling the key on and off a few times and dont roll the motor. If you just wanna roll the motor (to build oil pressure and prime), pull the fuse on the fuel pump and prevent it from potentially puking fuel into engine.
You could have a stuck injector(s) thats letting fuel into the engine. Also, do you have the fuel hooked up on the nitrous system?? If you do, remove that or prove the solenoid isnt leaking fuel into the engine.
The fuel rail came up. We may have flooded it because there was gas everywhere. After that it didnt crank. However I dont think thats the problem. The problem is that there is definately no spark from the coil packs. They didnt work on my car yesterday but I will get an update today. I will be going SD and we did prime it before firing. Nothing is hooked up on the nitrous setup yet. That stage is just there so I wouldnt have to pull it later when i do the set up. I do have an 85mm MAF but didnt think I had to have it on there just to fire to the engine. I only wanted to run it for 20 seconds max before continuing. My problem here is I am just not getting spark. If I can get that worked out I can get everything going from there. So any advice on why I dont have spark would be appreciated. Thanks cutlass_455.
second, you cant just start a new engine for 20 seconds and shut it off. you have to run it 2000RPM for 20 minutes to let the rings seat and break in properly.
third, if its putting insane amounts of fuel into the cylinders and your trying to start it, get ready to tear it down again and remachine the cylinder walls after they wash out.
first off, you have to have the MAF and every other sensor hooked up before it will start. it may start, but it wont run good.
I wasnt starting it and thinking it would be drive ready or ready to go to the track. I was starting it to see if it would even start. The 20 seconds was because I didnt want to hurt anything. I know you know a LOT more about this than I do. But I can promise you that you dont have to have all the sensors hooked up to run for 20 seconds.
second, you cant just start a new engine for 20 seconds and shut it off. you have to run it 2000RPM for 20 minutes to let the rings seat and break in properly.
I would do a proper break in. Gibsons break in oil and all..lol. When it will crank. For instance even with it at the state that it is in it SHOULD have fire going to it correct? Well thats not the case right now. So before going further I want to work out the issues like spark, being able to crank.... you know.
third, if its putting insane amounts of fuel into the cylinders and your trying to start it, get ready to tear it down again and remachine the cylinder walls after they wash out.
I wasnt starting it and thinking it would be drive ready or ready to go to the track. I was starting it to see if it would even start. The 20 seconds was because I didnt want to hurt anything. I know you know a LOT more about this than I do. But I can promise you that you dont have to have all the sensors hooked up to run for 20 seconds.
second, you cant just start a new engine for 20 seconds and shut it off. you have to run it 2000RPM for 20 minutes to let the rings seat and break in properly.
I would do a proper break in. Gibsons break in oil and all..lol. When it will crank. For instance even with it at the state that it is in it SHOULD have fire going to it correct? Well thats not the case right now. So before going further I want to work out the issues like spark, being able to crank.... you know.
third, if its putting insane amounts of fuel into the cylinders and your trying to start it, get ready to tear it down again and remachine the cylinder walls after they wash out.
until the SD tune is done that is but for now MAF.For now I would be happy with a little spark.
So far from the search I found it may be the crank sensor. The grounds have been tripple dipple checked along with the trouble shooting steps mentioned above.
Thanks bww3588 I know you are trying to help and also help keep me from messing up an engine. I appreciate that. If you know of anything else I could have missed tho I would really appreciate the info. Ill go try it. Its in the vette and with those 1 7/8" headers its going to be a job x 2 to swap the crank sensor. I wanted to exhaust all other possibilities before that even though the shop just went and got one. I think they will be trying that on Monday.
