BROKEN Header Bolt ....
03-27-2017, 12:40 PM
#41
I get this is super old, but I see no mention of this method.
No need to remove the head. 2 minutes with a mig/tig welder and a nut and you can pull it out super easy. I hose it down with JB blaster first as well, then use a torch to clean it off. Place nut over broken bolt, and fill nut with weld. Remove with wrench.
No need to remove the head. 2 minutes with a mig/tig welder and a nut and you can pull it out super easy. I hose it down with JB blaster first as well, then use a torch to clean it off. Place nut over broken bolt, and fill nut with weld. Remove with wrench.
03-27-2017, 12:40 PM
#42
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Holy old thread....
I snapped the passenger side rearmost bolt last summer during my install. Really kick myself for it too, because I think it was a dumb error on my part.
Anyway, I discovered Dorman 917-142. It's a kickass clamp that is completely worth the $26 on Amazon. Very beefy design. Been working well for me!
Dorman also has another P/N that wraps around the side of the head - kind of a triangular piece that wraps around the back/front of the head if it's one of the end bolts that snapped. I used the one I listed on the rear side and it fit perfectly, so I see no need for the other design.
I snapped the passenger side rearmost bolt last summer during my install. Really kick myself for it too, because I think it was a dumb error on my part.
Anyway, I discovered Dorman 917-142. It's a kickass clamp that is completely worth the $26 on Amazon. Very beefy design. Been working well for me!
Dorman also has another P/N that wraps around the side of the head - kind of a triangular piece that wraps around the back/front of the head if it's one of the end bolts that snapped. I used the one I listed on the rear side and it fit perfectly, so I see no need for the other design.
04-16-2017, 11:44 AM
#45
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It seems everyone who has worked on LS manifolds has this problem, including me. Two bolt heads were broken off in mine. They are out, drilled and used an easy out.
I see lots and lots of posts all over the place about how to get the bolts out. What I have been unable to determine is what is causing it. My assumption is that because the heads and manifold are different materials when they get hot they expand/contract at different rates, bolts bend back and forth with heat and cold........ eventually 'snap'.
So how can this be prevented so it doesn't happen again? Certainly you can buy the latest whiz bang, wazoo bolts at great expense, not sure they wouldn't do the same thing. I'm no scientist but to me all the bolt treatments in the world are gonna be subject to heat, therefor same issue. It seems even studs would have a similar fate.
So what to do to make it a solid dependable repair?
I see lots and lots of posts all over the place about how to get the bolts out. What I have been unable to determine is what is causing it. My assumption is that because the heads and manifold are different materials when they get hot they expand/contract at different rates, bolts bend back and forth with heat and cold........ eventually 'snap'.
So how can this be prevented so it doesn't happen again? Certainly you can buy the latest whiz bang, wazoo bolts at great expense, not sure they wouldn't do the same thing. I'm no scientist but to me all the bolt treatments in the world are gonna be subject to heat, therefor same issue. It seems even studs would have a similar fate.
So what to do to make it a solid dependable repair?
Last edited by 6t5elcamino; 04-16-2017 at 11:50 AM.
04-16-2017, 05:52 PM
#46
They break because people over tighten them and stretch/weaken the bolt. Then add a ton of heat to the mix it it weakens it more.
Torque them to factory spec with a little anti seize on it for good measure. I've never had one break or leak after repairing.
Torque them to factory spec with a little anti seize on it for good measure. I've never had one break or leak after repairing.
