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Crank pulley install... What method did you use?

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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 06:48 PM
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Default Crank pulley install... What method did you use?

As the title states, which method did you use, and how did it work out?

I have a bit of a problem... I've looked all over god's creation to try and find a longer bolt and I can't come up with anything, anywhere. That being said, I need to install my crank pulley in the next couple days (finishing my cam swap) and I don't have time to order a bolt. I'm out of options.

One method I'm seeing people post a lot about, is the heating of the pulley in the oven. If anyone has done this, please provide specifics on how you went about it, and how has it turned out in the long run? No bad effects? How long has it been?

Any and all methods are welcome. I did a lot of searching and saw some good information but I'd like to hear more if anyone else has anything else to share.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 07:02 PM
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I tried the heating method and it the pulley went on maybe 1/16" farther than cold. Also if you heat the pulley you run the risk of damaging the front crank seal.

I prefer the longer bolt method. The first time I did this I bought a bolt at NAPA Auto Parts. The 2nd time I bought a piece of all thread from Fastenal and cut it down to 6.5". I got a nut and a couple washers too. I just threaded the rod all the way in the crank and went to town on the nut. The two washers were totally bent and coned in by the time the pulley got seated. Use some anti seize on the crank snout too, it will make the pulley a little easier to get on and off (next time).

The piece of all thread and a nut is the safest method.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 07:37 PM
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I did the beat with a hammer onto a 2x4 method (with WD40) . . .and then the original bolt to pull on the rest of the way before swapping bolts...
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Duffster
I did the beat with a hammer onto a 2x4 method (with WD40) . . .and then the original bolt to pull on the rest of the way before swapping bolts...
This works..

or..

There's a member here (in the tools section) that makes/sells a very nice crank pulley install tool. I bought one off of him a while back, and I've used it probably 30-40 times so far. Very handy tool.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 09:42 PM
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Ive done the heating method and thankfully, the front seal didnt melt. Dont count it as a for sure every time fix. It was heated by hanging in front of a torpedo garage heater

Also done the hammer install. Pretty simple with the engine removed, not so easy with the radiator shroud preventing a good swing. The first few threads of the bolt engagement are a bit nerve racking because it always feels like its stripping out

The easiest is a large threaded rod, some large washers and a good nut. Crank threads are not at risk because it doesnt spin, only the nut does

The longer bolt method also works, but the crank threads are still at risk. Check a hardware store
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 11:02 PM
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I used an ARP bolt from the start to the end. It grabbed about 3 threads to start and pulled it all the way in. The beginning was really soft so I didn't worry about it.
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Duffster
I did the beat with a hammer onto a 2x4 method (with WD40) . . .and then the original bolt to pull on the rest of the way before swapping bolts...
OP dont do this. All that beating gets transfered into 1 crankshaft thrust bearing. Its a very small surface and not designed to take hits like that. Use either a Hawks install tool, or a threaded rod with washers and a nut to pull it on.

Originally Posted by Damian
This works..
Please see above
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